Fir Burl

[Reed Gray]

I had another turner over yesterday, and he bought over a 'madrone' burl to turn and get some coring help. When I put the chainsaw to it, I knew it was some thing else because madrone has almost no scent. We figured it was fir. Lots of that around here. It was very dry. Well, the end result was pretty, but I think I will pass the next time. I am used to sloppy wet wood, and this was very dry. It was probably one of the most difficult pieces I have ever cored. Maybe 8 inches deep. I tried his McNaughton blades, which had the spear points on them. Almost unmanageable. I switched to my square ground ones, and it was a lot better, though it still chattered, and the dust and chips were awful. Not some thing good for first coring attempts. I was covered, head to toe, with sticky, fine, pitch soaked dust, and since I was sweating, it stuck twice as bad. He did get a little coring experience, and he has some nice sycamore slabs at his place that I encouraged him to try for his first coring experiences. Nevermore! I am glad I am not the one to have to sand them out. I was able to get the surface pretty clean with some shear scraping, and no matter what I did with the gouges, it tore out. I wonder if it will come out of my cloths?

robo hippy

[charlie knighton]

when you are hot and sweaty, you want the curlies

can you core stone?????whats that stuff called, its real dusty, they say take it outside to do.

[Reed Gray]

The talk/soap stone and alabaster should be coreable, but I think you would want carbide tipped blades. I am sure it is possible, and you would have to go slow. Out side on a very windy day for sure.

robo hippy

[Bob Bergstrom]

It seems the McNaugton cutters work better as the tip gets ground back. Mine have lost a third of the cutting width and I have far less catches on my 3520. I know my technique is a lot better, but the tool also seems to have become more friendly with age.