drill bit extension for blum blumotion tandem undermount drilling template

[Nelson Howe]

Those of you with experience with this template: the instruction diagram shows a nifty bit extender for the 2.5 mm bit. Without it, the chuck of my cordless drill runs into the template or drawer bottom (forget which right now). But this extender is not included. Which seems odd since the collar for the 5 mm bit is included. Anybody got a good source or solution for the bit extender?

Thanks,

Nelson

[Tom Wassack]

Greetings from NC!
Hey Nelson,
I made one by using the 2.5MM bit to drill into a scrap 6'' piece of 1/2'' round stock. A set screw holds the bit tight. Works like a charm and a lot cheaper than offerings from Woodworker's Supply or Cabinet Parts.

Regards,
Tom Wassack
Asheboro, NC

[Robert LaPlaca]

Those of you with experience with this template: the instruction diagram shows a nifty bit extender for the 2.5 mm bit. Without it, the chuck of my cordless drill runs into the template or drawer bottom (forget which right now). But this extender is not included. Which seems odd since the collar for the 5 mm bit is included. Anybody got a good source or solution for the bit extender?

Thanks,

Nelson

How about this link http://www.wwhardware.com/blum-tandem-drilling-jig-accessories-bt65andaccessories-7763, I believe the extender for the 2.5mm bit bit is part of the part of the drilling jig accessory kit Woodworkers Hardware part number BT65.9000, which is $38 more dollars.. I think the 6mm bit was part of the accessory kit as was the stop collar for 6mm bit and a long phillips bit too...

[Chris Padilla]

I wish I could remember what I did but I didn't need the extender. I think maybe my Festool offset chuck allowed me to get around it.

[Sam Murdoch]

I just use some #5 x 5/8" screws and find that they drive in fine without pre drilling. Might make a difference if you are using very hard wood for the drawer boxes but I typically use maple or basswood with plywood bottoms and have had no issues. I've never used the jig for the triggers. I do use the back hole jig.

[Nelson Howe]

Thanks guys. $38 plus the $40 for the jig puts me over the top. I'll try to make my own or use the jig for a template to make the marks and then freehand it.

Nelson

Oh, and go Blue Devils! (I know, wrong part of the state.)

[Alan Bienlein]

Can't remember ever using that stupid jig. We just used the #5 x 5/8" screws. Put the locking device in place and drive the screws in. Done! If for some odd reason you find it necessary to pre drill the holes just put the locking device in the corner and put your pencil in the holes for the screws and mark it.

[charlie kapper]

I ordered six inch long drill bits from Grainger for about $2.50 a piece. Just used tape to mark drill depth.

[Jeff Duncan]

I bought the set as a kit and for me it was well worth it.....have done hundreds of drawers with it:D

If it makes it any easier to spend the money.....you use the same bit with the face frame jig;)

good luck,
JeffD

[joe milana]

I set the trigger in place & use a vix bit.

[Peter Quinn]

We just bought a cheap air craft long bit from the hardware store and use the actual clips as the guide. We get the boxes fabricated, they come with the back hole, I made a quick BB jig for the purpose for home use. We have the jig at work but no body uses it. I like to lay out all the drawer boxes, put the clips in place, walk down the line and drill each one, go back and screw them down, goes quicker for me than messing with the jig at all. The clips help you aim the drill, the long bit helps the chuck stay clear of the clips. We may actually have cut the aircraft bit a little shorter than stock? Been a while since I thought about it. If kitchens are your business and you have a variety of employees going at this task, the jig starts to make sense for speed and consistency. Short of that it's over priced euro plastic IMHO.

[Mark W Pugh]

No jig required. Watch this video if you get a chance. He installs slides with no jig.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJDTLmhrum8

[Jamie Buxton]

Here's a pic of my guide. It took maybe 15 minutes to make. It is a piece of 1/4"x1/4" steel, with two 3/32" holes drilled straight through it. The steel is epoxied to a piece of wood. It is easy to tune the wood to set the correct angle on the holes, and to trim the ends so that the holes are the correct distance from the drawer sides.


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