Cheap plane w/ dull blade - still worked a little

[Daniel Rode]

I've become very interested in learning to use hand tools more. I had some questions answered this week that really helped. I also started reading posts and watching videos by Paul Sellers. I've learned more in a couple of days that I did in the last couple of decades. His approach is very pragmatic and makes it pretty clear that one can do a whole lot with very few tools. One #4 plane, a few chisels plus a few layout tools goes a long way.

I have a contractor model #4 stanley with a fairly dull blade. I'm not leaving it dull because I'm lazy or trying to make a point. I'm switching to scary sharp and waiting on (free) glass to arrive. So despite the dull-ish blade, I wanted to try to implement some of what I've been reading and watching.

I started with a 12" x 3/4" piece of walnut and tried to joint the edge. That worked pretty well. I did the same to a 3' x 1" poplar board with a rough edge. Not too bad. I struggled with the grain on one part of the board but eventually worked the other direction and got better results. I was able to put a straight and square edge on both boards. It was a bit tricky trying to figure out where to place my hands and what pressure to use to get a consistent cut and to bring the edge into square. I repeated a few times. I didn't get many super thin full width shavings but I got some with practice and tweaking the blade depth.

Working on the faces did not go as well. I got rough patchy results that looked awful and were nothing like smooth, glassy, etc. I don't know if my issue is technique (or the lack thereof), plane adjustment or a blade in need of sharpening. Maybe a combination of all 3? Once I re-tune the plane and get the blade sharp, I'll be in a better position to figure out what's wrong.

Rough Edge
267633
After a few passes
267634

Final edge (maybe 2 minutes work)
267635

(http://www.rodephoto.com/Other/help/i-K5q5xNN/0/M/DSC01507-M.jpg)

[David Weaver]

The face will be harder to deal with than the edge, that's just the way it goes. And another reason that you can sort of disregard anyone selling you something if all they do is take edge shavings over and over advertising a sharpening system or something. It's not much of a test.

You're on your way, though. As I said in a previous post, if the plane is tight and straight enough to do good work, then it very well may do just as good of work as any other plane you'll find, especially once you get the sharpening mastered.

At this point, trust your hands and eyes and the results and with a couple of points of calibration and some reading (essential woodworker by robert wearing is a good place to start) you can go as far as you want.

Anyway, don't worry about the face at this point, you'll need a sharp plane before you can assess anything there.

[Jim Koepke]

You will find a sharp blade makes all the difference in the world.

You will also likely learn "sharp" is a moving target over time. What you think is sharp today will be nothing compared to what you see as sharp as you learn the techniques of sharpening.

With my current set up my blades can be honed sharp enough to; shave hair, pare end grain, push through paper and make wispy thin shavings. There are a few tests that they do not yet pass so I know there is a bit more that can be done. One of these days I may be able to buy a finer stone than my 8000.

You will also learn about planing into the rising grain or to read the grain to make planing easier.

Good luck and most of all, enjoy the journey.

jtk

[Paul Murphy]

As was pointed out, sharpness is key. When planing the face of a board or panel you will want a slight curve to the edge of the blade such that the center takes a shaving of something like .001 or .002", while the edge of the blade tapers to zero. The curve in a blade sharpened for face planing prevents "gutters" [edge tracks] from showing in your surface.

Some folks can edge joint a board with a blade sharpened for face planing, while others prefer a blade sharpened to be truly straight. Even a straight blade has to be set evenly side-to-side to keep an edge straight, while a curved blade depends on the operator to properly place the blade.

Planes are wonderful tools, and a well setup plane can save you hours and dollars of sanding misery. It really is worth your time to read up on how to best use them! Sharpening is not really so difficult, there is more than one way to get good results. I have an old set of waterstones that were inexpensive, some folks use the wet sandpaper on glass, just pick a method that fits your situation and learn to make it work for you.

Oh yeah, relax and enjoy the learning curve!

[Sam Stephens]

A sharp blade will certainly help. in general, you can't take near as thick a shaving on the face (full width shaving) as you can on the edge (3/4-1") so make sure to back off the blade a bit. FWIW, walnut can have some screwy grain that can be a beast to plane if you're not expecting it. Get some pine and you'll feel like a pro (b/c that's what they're using in the advertisement!)

[Chris Hachet]

Again, good luck with the journey. I am not nearly as advanced as a lot of guys here, but planing can save a ton of work in getting to the finished product.