Thoughts on applying paste wax to saw handles?

[David Kuzdrall]

The finish on my first saw tote is curing (watch Danish oil) and as expected, it is low in gloss. I would like to shine it up a bit but don't want to go with a film forming finish as it will eventually wear off unevenly.

what are the opinions on paste wax? I typically apply wax to all my furniture projects but how will it do on a handle that will get hot, moist / sweaty when in use?

thx

[David Weaver]

Wax is fine. If you don't like what you get from it, burnish the surface with something like a paper bag or softwood plane shavings.

[David Barnett]

The finish on my first saw tote is curing (watch Danish oil) and as expected, it is low in gloss. I would like to shine it up a bit.

David, if you want "to shine it up a bit" with a paste wax, look for one with a fair amount of carnauba or candelilla, harder waxes that shine more than beeswax alone. Microcrystalline waxes may afford more protection from finger prints but vary in gloss from brand to brand. The best way, of course, is to charge a buff with a block of carnauba which will give a high and long-lasting lustre compared to solvent-softened pastes. Of course, it's no big deal to simply rewax more often with a paste wax and it does smell nice, especially if you add a few drops of essential oil to the mix.


I typically apply wax to all my furniture projects but how will it do on a handle that will get hot, moist / sweaty when in use?

Buffed on waxes like carnauba or waxes otherwise applied heated soften during handling at higher temperatures than paste waxes so resist getting sticky and hold up better between applications, which is why pipe makers, collectors and smokers use buffed carnauba. Melted beeswax tempered with resin such as damar crystals (encaustic medium) also works well, increasing the softening point of the beeswax, and can be applied with a heat gun or blow dryer then wiped thin and hand buffed to a pleasing and reasonably long-lasting shine, but like most waxes, refreshing that gloss will be an ongoing process. I've never minded that, though.

[David Kuzdrall]

David, if you want "to shine it up a bit" with a paste wax, look for one with a fair amount of carnauba or candelilla, harder waxes that shine more than beeswax alone. Microcrystalline waxes may afford more protection from finger prints but vary in gloss from brand to brand. The best way, of course, is to charge a buff with a block of carnauba which will give a high and long-lasting lustre compared to solvent-softened pastes. Of course, it's no big deal to simply rewax more often with a paste wax and it does smell nice, especially if you add a few drops of essential oil to the mix.



Buffed on waxes like carnauba or waxes otherwise applied heated soften during handling at higher temperatures than paste waxes so resist getting sticky and hold up better between applications, which is why pipe makers, collectors and smokers use buffed carnauba. Melted beeswax tempered with resin such as damar crystals (encaustic medium) also works well, increasing the softening point of the beeswax, and can be applied with a heat gun or blow dryer then wiped thin and hand buffed to a pleasing and reasonably long-lasting shine, but like most waxes, refreshing that gloss will be an ongoing process. I've never minded that, though.

Thank you for this reply. Do you have any examples of which brands / products contain the higher amounts of carnuba?

[Charles Bjorgen]

The Beall Company has a buffing kit that includes a stick of Carnuba wax as part of its buffing system for wood turners. The wax stick can be ordered separately. It's available here:
http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php

An inexpensive alternative would be a can of Kiwi clear shoe polish buffed out with a shoe brush, easily renewed when needed. Does anyone still polish their shoes?

[Jim Matthews]

I like the feel of paste wax, and in my damp shop a little protection from humidity makes sense.

I like a little shellac on the bare wood, and a brisk buffing with the wire side of my file brush.
Replaced horns and other lighter color woods get a close color match, this way.

Easy enough to remove, if it feels like too much or it get's sticky.

Butcher's in the orange can seems to be good for this.

[David Barnett]

Thank you for this reply. Do you have any examples of which brands / products contain the higher amounts of carnuba?

If you want high as in 100%, detailers swear by Concours P21S 100% Carnauba Paste Wax (http://www.p21s.com/products/bis_100cw.html). The manufacturer claims "no other raw wax types used in this formula." You can buy it from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/P21S-Concours-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B0002LBGX2).

I have not used it nor can I attest to its claims, but I can tell you that some other waxes claiming "Pure Brazilian Carnauba" and so on do contain other waxes and wax components, which is why I'm told P21S calls their product "100% Carnauba."

High carnauba waxes are popular with auto, marine and aircraft detailers, but a wax needn't be 100% carnauba to perform well.

Carnauba content in beeswax-based furniture and floor paste waxes is more about the shine than protective longevity past initial wear. As I'm not terribly fond of gloss, I use more filtered beeswax when I mix my own. When I need high gloss on pipes and so on, I buff on hard carnauba. While I do use paste waxes, I prefer the look of plain beeswax applied dry to furniture—no paste wax, no solvents other than a few drops of water, no greasy lustre. If I'm lucky, I'll be able to lift my arms the next day.

[David Kuzdrall]

Thanks again.

I have some Behlen Blue Label at the house so I may start there and see if it gives me the desired look.

i will probably wipe on one more application of Danish Oil today, let it cure until next weekend then wax. If all goes well I will have a new saw by Saturday.

DK

[Mike Cogswell]

You can also use a coat of BLO to give it more shine. I find it pretty durable on gunstocks and tools.

[David Kuzdrall]

I ended up putting two coats of varnish on it thinned with 3-parts MS. Hopefully this will bind up the fibers so that my sweaty hands don't raise the grain. It gave just a little extra gloss and now looks the way I want for a tool handle.

the finish is curing and will be topped with carnuba paste wax in a day or so...the finished pictures are coming soon!