Trying to turn custom handle.

[Ron Stadler]

OK, I'm trying to turn a custom hammer handle for my boss, but the biggest problem I have right now is my live center keeps walking off my center punch divot that I make. Getting real frustrating after about 20 or more hammer handles that I made.
The process has been square my blank perfectly ,then trace my contour out on the blank, mark my centers and center punch them, then cut the contour out on bandsaw (the handle will have flats on it That's why I prebandsaw it for the contour on the sides) then I put it on the lathe line up center punch marks and the live center continually walks off to one side: ( . It's a rather soft wood that I'm using, but don'tthis want to use anything good until I know it is the right contour for my boss. All thoughts and ideas on how I can keep this on center would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

[Thom Sturgill]

The method I've seen for turning handles is to turn the profile round, then offset turn to get an oval cross-section. As to the center walking, that I believe is an issue of the soft wood. You might try glueing blocks of hardwood on the ends.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

What kind of center? If you have a center that has the removable 60 degree cone, and the small point center with the round ring. Don't know the technical term. Use that. The ring portion holds the soft woods much better than a 60 degree cone.

[Ron Stadler]

Yep I tried my center that I had at home because the one he had was way to large, the center I have is like the one your talking of with a removable point,but I still think it's angle is a little to much.
I'll have to give the hardwood idea some thought, that may work.

[Jim Underwood]

My thought was to use that ring center. The point will help center it, and the ring will help it to stay there. If nothing else, use the center to make your mark (be careful of the bearings though).

If the angles of your center punch and your center don't match, you'll have troubles. I noticed this when I swapped drive centers from my mini Jet 1014 with my Jet 1642. The angles on the centers don't match. So if you use the live center to make your marks, like I do, make sure that you use the drive center that you're going to use to drive the piece with.

[Ron Stadler]

OK,Thanks I'll keep that in mind also.

[Dale Gillaspy]

Can you cut the angle after you finish the turning? That would leave a square end for the tail center to grab onto. Just put it in a V-block to hold it for safety when cutting on the bandsaw.

[Scott Hackler]

For soft woods I will saturate the end of the wood with CA glue prior to marking and punching a center point. Makes the end of the wood hard as a rock and less likely to oval out the live center hole.

[Ron Stadler]

thanks guys, I'm sure all these suggestions will help, wish me luck.

[Jeff Gilfor]

Also, you could make the blank longer than needed, and drill small hole(s) a short distance into the end that will be supported by live center on tail stock. The 60 degreepoint will engage cleanly and reproducible, and you can simply saw off and sand when done.

[Ron Stadler]

Another great idea, might have to try that one also, thanks Jeff.