Yahoo! New saw tonight

[Michael Weber]

Been trolling Craigslist for years looking for a budget priced Unisaw. Finally one popped up yesterday afternoon about 30 miles away. Called this morning figuring it would already be gone at the price but to my surprise the gentleman still had it. 3HP single phase. Old style with a dust door in front with a little rust on top but no pitting. No fence but I have a unifence waiting. He says it works fine. I hope so because I bought it unseen except for the pictures and we arraigned for him to deliver it tonight. Sitting here waiting like a kid at Christmas. Hope the two of us can get it off the pickup. Oh, the tilt wheel is on the left side of the cabinet and while it's not important to me does that make it a left tilt?

[Matt Day]

If the motor hangs out th right and tilt wheel is on the left, I think it's a right tilt.

Have fun unloading the goods (two people should be fine) and good luck! Don't forget to ask for the arbor wrenches and small stuff like that; I know I sometimes get caught up in the moment and forget those little things!

[Mark Carlson]

How cool. Post some pictures when you get a chance.

[Rick Potter]

Right tilt. Congrats, it's a great saw.

Rick Potter

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Congratulations Mike! Can't wait to see pictures!

[Michael Weber]

Turned out to be Christmas in July Eve (24th). He's going to get a low trailer to make it easier to unload and deliver on the One and True Christmas in July date (25th). Thanks for the tip about small accessories and clearing up right/left issue. I'll post a pic but remember its a bit rough.

[scott spencer]

Congrats. The side of the saw that the tilt wheel is on isn't a reliable indicator of tilt direction....you can find examples of either tilt direction with that configuration. A better indicator is to see where the elevation wheel sits relative to the "smiley" cutout on the front....with the blade vertical, the wheel sitting to the left side of the smiley means left tilt...vice/versa for right tilt. Pic?

Left tilt:
http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/628CA63BC3F54912B4593C2236F0C2C0/R4511_1_Final.jpg

Right tilt:
http://zo-d.com/stuff/images/Grizzly-1023S-1023SL-Tablesaw.jpg

[Michael Weber]

Congrats. The side of the saw that the tilt wheel is on isn't a reliable indicator of tilt direction....you can find examples of either tilt direction with that configuration. A better indicator is to see where the elevation wheel sits relative to the "smiley" cutout on the front....with the blade vertical, the wheel sitting to the left side of the smiley means left tilt...vice/versa for right tilt. Pic?

Left tilt:


Right tilt:

That is a great tip. Obvious now that you point it out. Pictures are no longer up on CL and I didn't note the relationship of the wheel/smiley so I'll find out tonight.

[John TenEyck]

If it's a Unisaw and the tilt wheel is on the left - it's a right tilt saw. Not sure when they stopped making those. Mine's a 1954 and it runs really well and the tilt operates super smooth. Set it at 45 deg. and you have 45 degrees, and the blade stays parallel with the miter slots (unlike my Sears TS). Back to zero and you really do have zero. If nothing's broken or bent, you're going to like it. Congrats.

John

[Michael Weber]

Thanks, was just super excited to find one close and would have gotten it even if 3 phase. I've never seen a Unisaw of any vintage for sale at this price, even old ratty 3 phase units, so hoping it's all there and in good order. Find out in a few hours.:)

[John TenEyck]

Hope it turns out well. And remember - no pictures, it didn't happen !

John

[Michael Weber]

Arrived and it looks about as expected, Rust on top and no right cast iron extension if it ever had one. Look like at one time it had an owner built extension there. Table is flat using my straight edge except the left extension droops just slightly but should be an easy fix. Wouldn't pass the nickel test but hope new belts will fix that. Impressed how smooth both cranks work despite being grungy inside the cabinet. Model 34-802 and SN 86C05518. No arbor wrench or blade guard but I have an overhead guard/collector. Got some de-rusting, cleaning and painting to do. Maybe find an after market motor cover.

[Jamie Lynch]

Looks good. Please share as you get her cleaned up.

[Rick Potter]

Mine never had that box in the back where the cord is. Is it three phase?

Rick P

[Bill Geibe]

Nice find! It looks like your new project has a birth date of March, 1986 ( http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx )

A couple years ago I restored a '79. It was a fun project and has been a great saw. The OWWM people were a great help for me with the project.

Incidentally, some saws that came equipped with the full-size right side extension table didn't have a cast iron table extension installed on that side (hope that made sense).

Bill

[Rollie Meyers]

Mine never had that box in the back where the cord is. Is it three phase?

Rick P

OP said 1Ø, the "box" is a Delta LVC Low Voltage Control option. 24 volt control, a multi tapped control transformer, DP contactor, & a overload relay is contained inside.

[scott spencer]

Arrived and it looks about as expected, Rust on top and no right cast iron extension if it ever had one. Look like at one time it had an owner built extension there. Table is flat using my straight edge except the left extension droops just slightly but should be an easy fix. Wouldn't pass the nickel test but hope new belts will fix that. Impressed how smooth both cranks work despite being grungy inside the cabinet. Model 34-802 and SN 86C05518. No arbor wrench or blade guard but I have an overhead guard/collector. Got some de-rusting, cleaning and painting to do. Maybe find an after market motor cover.

If new belts to get it to pass the nickel test, try a different nickel! :D That should clean up very nicely. BTW....right tilt.

[David C. Roseman]

Beauty, Michael! Congratulations. Unless you really want metal, and can find a quick source for an after-market motor cover, I wouldn't give that a second thought. You already have the bottom mounting bracket, and the loose L-bracket above looks like it secured either a motor cover or an extension stable. Easy to build a cover out of 1/4" plywood or hardboard and some 1 x 1s for lightweight framing. Tight butt joints at the edges, round them over and spray with matching rattle-can gray enamel and it will be nice.

The absence of a righthand cast-iron extension is just as well. Makes mounting a shop-built extension table very easy. If you have the room, I'd go with a full extension, top it with laminate, and consider integrating a custom router table, if you don't already have one. Again, easy to do with some shop-made router templates and reasonable shop skills. :)

David

[Michael Weber]

Thanks. I'm not necessarily looking for a beautiful restoration but more of an okay looking functional piece of equipment. Deciding if I want to mount it to a movable base or not. I currently have an extension on my cabinet saw which is a router cabinet. I was thinking I would just build a separate router table this time to save space but since the fence rails take up the space anyway might as well put it there again. I found the router in the extension problematic to use but will reconfigure it so it's more convenient. Any one have plans for a router fence attachment for a Unifence?

[Joseph Tarantino]

congrats on your purchase. as you go about restoring/refurbishing the saw, you might consider this info from the sawcenter and the video series that refurbs a 40s vintage unisaw:

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw_faq.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pshGOUg0hG0

[Michael Weber]

Good links, thanks. Got the top cleaned today. Messy job. It did have some pitting in a couple of places. Dont see anything broken which was my main worry having bought it unseen. After vacuuming it shows rust on the adjustment shafts and pulleys. Everything feels tight and bearings feel/sound okay. Not sure further disassembly is justified but definitely going to replace the belts and refinish the outside.