Lazy Susan door hinge

[Dave Nanke]

I'm building a lazy susan base cabinet for the first time and need hinges for the door(s). I'm building the cabinet with a shelf and will have lazy susans on each shelf, and I'm considering having the doors open out on separate hinges (instead of connecting one door to the other and hinged to one side of the cabinet). The cabinet has 1.5" face frame stiles, but I can build out the inside of the cabinet to be flush with the back of the faceframe. I need the door to overlay the faceframe 1/2".

What hinge do you recommend? I've looked at the Blum 170 degree clip top hinge, but is that too bulky? Would it interfere with the lazy susan? If you do like that hinge, can you recommend a mounting plate?

Thanks!
Dave

[Sam Murdoch]

Is this a corner cabinet with a right angle? Are the 2 lazy susans pie shaped or simply round turntables on shelves? As the doors are not connected to other than the face frame I'm not seeing why you can't use the same hinge you will use on all the other doors. If they meet in the middle with a 90° corner one door would need to open before you could open the other.

As I don't know exactly what you intend, another option perhaps is to build a cabinet that makes the angle straight across from one wall of base cabs to the other? This eliminates the need for angled shelves and allows for one door in the corner rather than 2.

[Dave Nanke]

Thanks Sam. It is a right angle, inside corner. I'm using kidney lazy susans.

The hinges I'm using on the other doors in the kitchen are 110 degree. If I use those, I think the doors would form an outside corner when opened, blocking access to the cabinet. So I do think I need something like the 170 degree.

[Gus Dundon]

Something like pie cut hinges?

[Sam Murdoch]

I've looked at the Blum 170 degree clip top hinge, but is that too bulky? Would it interfere with the lazy susan? If you do like that hinge, can you recommend a mounting plate?

Thanks!
Dave

The 170s are bulky simple as that, but they will open wide and depending on the up or down placement relative to the shelves, will not interfere with the LSs. A butt hinge will also open as wide as you have room without the bulk but you will also lose the range of adjustability that the 170s will give you. As for the base plate - you need to study the specs as relates to your specific construction.

[John TenEyck]

I'm not sure on the OL, but take a look at Salice lazy susan door hinges. I used them on a face frame job where the Blum wouldn't work, and I really liked them. Good adjustability, very robust, and open really far.

John

[Thomas Bennett]

I use the Grass 3903VZ 165 degree, with the 4.3 mm face frame plate. On the standard cabinets, I use the 3703VS 110 degree. The 3903VZ are indeed bulky but work and adjust well. I use a standard piano hinge for the floating door and a magnetic catch. Note the rubber bumper keeps the magnet plate from scratching the adjacent cabinets.267176 it's a simple heavy-duty solution. I make my own trays and use a 12 inch bearing. One fault with the system is you would need to destroy a tray to remove it, if there was ever a problem. I have never had to do this. Hope this helps.

[Dave Nanke]

Thanks everybody!

I believe the desired overlay (with the Blum 170 degree hinge) is a formula based on the height of the base plate (0mm, 3mm, etc) deducted from a fixed amount of 11mm, plus the boring distance of the cup to the edge of the door. So if I want a 1/2" overlay (about 13mm) and my base plate is 3mm, I'll have to drill the hole for the cup hinge 5mm from the edge of the door. At least that's how I read it. I'll do a mock up with plywood doors before I drill the actual doors.