How Do You Lift A Gorilla???

[Derek Arita]

Got my Gorilla a couple of days ago. Since then, I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to get the motor and housing, up and onto the mounts. Yes, I will probably have to do it alone, as I've done all of my other big iron lifting. At 140 lbs., I've done OK so far, but this one is stumping me.
Best I can figure is, I'll mount it to a 2x4 and plywood backing, then try to hoist it all up, like you do when you build a wall on the ground, then lift it into place. Any other ideas?

[Bart Leetch]

When you said you now had your Gorilla & wanted ideas of how to get it up on the wall my first thought was jab it in the butt with a hat pin & it will get up there fine all by its self. :D

Do you have any room above where it will hang to put a pully to run a rope through to help pull it up?

[Frank Pellow]

I strongly reccemend that you do not attempt to get the unit into place by yourself. I had planned to do so, but the folks here talked me out of it, and I am gald that they did.

The pictures in post #84, #85, #97, and #110 in the thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7853 show the installation of my Oneida 2hp unit (which is very similar to their new Gorilla).

[Kurt Voss]

I use one of these attached to an overhead beam to lift heavy stuff out of the back of my truck. I plan to temporarily attach it above the location of my DC when it arrives. The nice thing about them is that you can hoist there rated capacity with one hand and when you let go of the chain, it automatically brakes it in position. Then you pull the other direction to lower it.

http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom/pics/jpeg288/G/G8705.jpg

[Jerry Clark]

You may consider renting a "Cherry Picker" available at most rental places and is portable and towable. These are used to remove engines from cars.:rolleyes:

[Derek Arita]

All great ideas, however I do not have any room over the unit to put any kind of pully system. I have just enough room to slide it into place.

[Sparky Paessler]

Derek

I have a 6'2" 200 pound neighbor that I could loan you that I use to lift heavy things. :D :D

[mike malone]

Got my Gorilla a couple of days ago. Since then, I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to get the motor and housing, up and .....
Best I can figure is, I'll mount it to a 2x4 and plywood backing, then try to hoist it all up, like you do when you build a wall on the ground, then lift it into place. Any other ideas?

Derek
i just set up my Gorilla. I usually try to do things by myself (even foolishly), but after sleeping on this one, I got 2 guys and 2 ladders...you need a third person to slip in the bolts, and fasten the clamps (btw..i suggest you get 1/2" longer bolts for the clamps and the oem's are a bear to put on)
I mounted my unit 3" higher to accomodate a board with casters under the bin.
good luck
mike

[Roger Bell]

If it is similar to their 2 HP model (which I installed alone) you might consider this. Attach a 2x4 to your rafters in at least two places with lags. This is your anchor or tailhold. Attach a block to both the anchor and to the motor unit. Use two blocks for mechanical advantage. If you end up mis-judging where to place your block on the tailhold you can slide it to a different location on the board and hoist again. I used snatch blocks but an ordinary cheapo deer hoist with 3/16" minimum nylon rope is probably enough. I used five points of attachment....steel hooks hooks attached to nylon rope and hooked thru the bolt holes in the motor/impeller unit so that it stayed level during hoisting. Imagine one of those macrame flower pot slings. Dont use fewer than three ropes attached to the unit or it will off balance itself when you hoist. Attach all five ropes (knotted together) to the hook on the lower pulley and hoist away, with the rope going thru both blocks at least once. With two blocks, it should hoist without effort. When you have the unit pulled up to the right elevation, tie off and hand position the unit onto the mounting brackets. Then fine tune the position and clamp it up before slacking off the line.

I used a similar method to hoist the cyclone inlet. Although it is not that heavy, it is difficult for one man to hold it up and at the same time attach the retaining ring to both the inlet and the motor unit. For this I used "rope ratchets" (found in most hardware stores...they are used to ratchet down and tie loads to your pickup....handy to have around anyway). Using five of these I hooked into five bolt holes and also had the opposite hooks placed around the bottom rim of the cyclone inlet (evenly space around the circumference). Pulling each rope a bit at a time and in sequence, I could pull the inlet up evenly, place the inlet pipe where it needed to be and then snug it tight to the gasket. Then attach the retaining ring and you're done. The cyclone itself is much lighter and I didnt need rigging to get it attached.

[Jim McCarty]

I fully assembled mine (blower and motor, barrel, and cone). Had 2 friends come over and in less than 5 minutes it was up and bolted in place. It is VERY top heavy so be careful. Good luck. Jim

[Jim Becker]

Don't try and lift it yourself! The combination of heavy and awkward can be deadly or at least injurous. The hoist is a nice idea if you have the headroom, but finding a neighbor or friend may be more expedient...and cheaper.

[Frank Pellow]

Don't try and lift it yourself! The combination of heavy and awkward can be deadly or at least injurous. The hoist is a nice idea if you have the headroom, but finding a neighbor or friend may be more expedient...and cheaper.
And, once you have the unit in place, your friends can join you in a cold one (or two) to celebrate. :) Mine did! :D

[Steve Wargo]

I just picked mine up myself, while my 4 year old cheered on. Had to watch the obsenities. But he actually clapped for me when I had it in place.

[Bill Fields]

Derek-

Did you see the recent posts about using a mobile folding hydraulic lift for general purpose lifting? Nothern Toll at $150 plus shipping.

Otherwise, call the local Fire Deprtment--as I did when I had to lift a 300# TS onto a base.

DON'T try to do this yourself.

Bill Fields

[Bill Lewis]

Yep, that's what I was going to suggest. Those mobile hydraulic tables are great. Just ask Keith Outten, while down at the swap meet everyone took notice that he had no less than 4 in his shop. They make great assemby or machine tables.

Oh, and I installed my 2HP Oneida unit by myself, it wasn't easy (understatement), and it was potentially very dangerous. So please get help, or get a lift.

You know if you updated your profile to show your location, you might even get a few creekers that would be willing to stop by to give you a hand.

[Tim Morton]

Looking at Frank's pictures, it seems to me that you could take the motor off and then mount the frame to the wood brackets and then using a french cleat system lift it up and on to the cleat. THEN, once you secure the housing to the wall properly you could bring the motor up on a ladder and re-install the motor.

[Bill Lewis]

I just checked the Northern Tool (http://www.northerntool.com/)site and that lift table is only $129 plus shipping. Shipping can be pricey, but if you sign up to the web site, or get on the catalog list, they often have free shipping offers. Or better still if you have a local store.

[Mark Duksta]

Derek,

Where are you located? I'm sure a SMC member would be willing to drop by and give you a hand.

Mark

[Chris Lee]

Derek,

If you do this by wourself make sure that you have some mechanical help as others have suggested. But you should try and find someone anyone. Don't you have any high school kids in your neighborhood on the football team??? I just got mine up on the wall this past weekend and that blower with the motor attached is heavy and akward to say the least. I mounted mine about a foot higher than normal to clear an obstruction that sits right next to the gorilla, so we set up 2 ladders and we each grabbed a side and walked up. The way the motor sits makes it very unstable when carried so be careful. I would hate to see you hurt or drop the blower. Not sure where you are, but if you are near Fredericksburg, VA I would be happy to help.

Chris

[Joe Mioux]

Two people are better than one!

With that said, I lifted mine by myself. I moved my work bench under the brackets, set the motor and fan on the bench, I then got up on the bench and lifted the unit in place.

Do not try lifting it over your head, it is too unstable that way. With me on the bench, all I had to do was lift it about chest high

Joe

[Sam Blasco]

I did it with my Woodsucker II, a tiny bit heavier, but basically the same, by myself and I almost regretted trying, but ultimately it wasn't that bad. I set up a couple of small block and tackles, with a 3-1 purchase, on either side of the whole shebang and was able to slowly get it close enough to reference the reference bolts and get a few nuts in place. Then a car jack under a quickly made base pushed it into place where I could bolt it securely. A good time was had by all.

[Bill Grumbine]

Well I am a little different than a lot of you guys. I have a step stair ladder sort of thing that has a load rating of 1500 lbs. All by myself I take up 27% of that load rating. When I installed my 1 1/2 HP Oneida, I just picked it up, walked up the steps, and set it on its brackets. I have a Gorilla on the way, and will do the same with that I suppose. :D So does it take a gorilla to lift a gorilla? No comments now! ;)

Bill

[Sam Blasco]

I just picked it up, walked up the steps, and set it on its brackets.... No comments now! ;)

Bill

Well that settles it. Next time I have to install mine, I'll have Bill come down and do just that.:D

[Dev Emch]

Assemble it on the ground where your comfortable.

Then, using cement blocks, 2x6 cribbing, 4x4 cribbing, etc., begin lifting it into position with a jack. You can use bottle jacks, car jacks, etc.

Lift one side up and crib it. Then lift the other side up and crib it. Dont move one end up more than a couple of inches at a time. You dont want to tip it over.

Slowly work around a circle at four points and keep adding cribbing. Pay attention to the base. Use 4x4 timbers about 4 feet long. Two parallels in one direction followed by two parallels in the other direction.

This will take some time but eventually you will have it in position and can secure it.

Then remove the cribbing.

You can use a hoist but many of you guys who have workshops in basements, etc. with low ceilling heights may have trouble with a hoist.

From a safty point of view, I would prefer to assemble on the ground and make sure everything is good to go and then lift it into position with the cribbing method.

[Jim Becker]

But, Dev....the instructions ;) have you assemble it once the blower is mounted. One of the reasons for this is that it allows you to make minute adjustments to the directions of both the inlet and the outlets before you tighten things down as well as apply the sealent under the bands while you make those adjustments. There are three major components to this system and the blower is the heavy, awkward part. The other two pieces are...umm...pieces of cake to deal with once the blower is hung.

[Bill Erskine]

I was faced with the same challenge.. to raise my cyclone onto the wall mounted brackets. What I did was purchase 2 threaded rods and a number of matching nuts.
I clamped 1 of the nuts in a vice-grip and then duct-taped it to the top of the bracket (so that it won't spin during the next step). Next, pass the threaded rod up through the mounting hole on the cyclone bracket and into the nut. Did the same on the other side.
Now I assembled the cyclone on a rolling bench and rolled it under the bracket. Passed the threaded rods through the mounting holes on the cyclone and then placed several flat washers on the rod and 2 nuts locking the nuts to the threaded rod.
Next, I put a large nut driver on the electric drill and began spinning the rods from the sides of the cyclone. Working from side to side to keep it balanced, the drill lifted the cyclone on those rods to the underside of the mounting bracket. (Note that I had the clearance above the bracket, but others might have to hack saw the rod above the bracket as it starts to poke into the ceiling.)

Now I was able to use several large C clamps to hold the cyclone against the bracket as I undid the nuts on the threaded rod and remove it. Replacing it with a graded 1" bolt/nut. Did the same on the other side and I was done.
Was pretty darned proud of myself.

[Derek Arita]

Bill, in place of finding a few good men or at least strong ones, this screw idea seems like a good one. Wish I came up with it first. I may have to reverse the screw travel because i have such a low ceiling, but I think I can make it work. When I get the cyclone up to the bracket, i'm going to try and get the housing lip on top of the bracket, rather than letting it hang under it.
Again, thanks for all the great ideas. By the way, I'm in tustin, CA. That's in Orange County.

[Jim Becker]

Derek, the blower housing should be on top of the brackets and as close to the wall as practical without touching it. It should not hang via the bolts...the weight needs to be on top of the brackets. This will require you to drill new holes in either the brackets or blower rim or both to position the system, but will result in a secure assembly with minimal "drooping" since the Gorilla comes with the older style brackets.

[Dev Emch]

Jim...

This was just a suggestion. I am building my own dust collection system totally from scratch and my cyclone stage is 21 inches in diameter with a 5 HP baldor motor. It is made from 12 and 14 gage steel so it weighs a bit. Because of its height, there is no room for a hoist or other top side lifting device. My plan was to inch it into position by jacking and cribbing it into position.

[Bill Lewis]

The other two pieces are...umm...pieces of cake to deal with once the blower is hung. Um, yea sure, easy as Marble cake, made with real Marble, imported from italy.:eek:

I used a couple of ratchet straps to help support, lift, and pull the pieces together.

[JayStPeter]

I managed to get the blower housing on my 2HP commercial unit in place using Bill Gs method. It would've been beter to have help as I came close to losing it. There was plenty of cursing and a couple deep bruises involved. I was planning on piling some stuff up to set the cone on while attaching the clamp, but a friend happened by. Putting the filter housing on would've been difficult without the help also.

Jay

[Jim Becker]

This was just a suggestion. I am building my own dust collection system totally from scratch and my cyclone stage is 21 inches in diameter with a 5 HP baldor motor. It is made from 12 and 14 gage steel so it weighs a bit. Because of its height, there is no room for a hoist or other top side lifting device. My plan was to inch it into position by jacking and cribbing it into position.

Your method is pretty good, Dev. I was trying to stay specific to the Oneida system and wanted to clarify that it's somewhat modular for anyone not familiar with it; something that makes mounting it relatively easy as long as you have the right help to handle the weight of the blower/motor overhead. The awkwardness is the biggest issue as Jay pointed out in his post.