Which Bandsaw Tension Crank Replacement?

[Dan Case LR]

I have a Grizzly G1019 14" bandsaw that I bought new in 2001. I replaced the threaded rod in the tension crank mechanism several years ago with a piece of threaded rod and a shop-made crank handle, and the rod and nut are pretty much toast now (surprised it lasted that long, to tell you the truth).

I want to replace this with something that has an Acme thread. I'm looking at two commercial replacement options around $50 -- the Carter Ratchet-Rod:

http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=456&cat_id=16

and this one from Highland Woodworking:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/Bandsaw-Tensioning--Crank--Heavy--Duty.aspx

haven't found anything less pricey that uses an Acme thread. If there's something I missed feel free to educate me.

Has anyone here used either of these? I like parts of both--the Carter's ability to be adjusted with a 3/8" ratchet is really cool. The ratcheting handle that comes with it is a bit less exciting. I like the 5" hand crank on the Highland unit. Anyone have actual experience with either of these?

Of course, there is one other option. I could always buy a piece of acme threaded rod and a matching square nut from McMaster-Carr and then find a low-priced handwheel with a 3/8" hole. Given that I've seen these saws sell for well under $200, putting as little cash into it as possible seems like a good idea.

D.

[Phil Rose]

I bought this one (or one very similar in the same price range) http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-14330-Tension-Crank/dp/B001C4UOVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374530015&sr=8-1&keywords=Bandsaw+tetensioning

i had an issue with the nut too ... Got an off the shelf square nut from the big box store, and bent aluminum sheet into a cover wrap to make up the size difference. Has lasted a couple years so far without slippage.

[Keith Pitman]

I found an inexpensive one on Ebay that works just fine.

[Jacob Reverb]

Of course, there is one other option. I could always buy a piece of acme threaded rod and a matching square nut from McMaster-Carr and then find a low-priced handwheel with a 3/8" hole. Given that I've seen these saws sell for well under $200, putting as little cash into it as possible seems like a good idea.

This is the way I would probably go, except I'd buy the parts at Enco and save up to 90% of the cost versus McMaster-Carr or MSC.

[Dan Case LR]

After adding up the real cost of doing it myself with the right materials, it didn't come out as cheap as I expected. Not only is shipping a consideration, but when you get into coarser threads (like the 3/8-8) finding he right nut is more challenging. And if you need a 13" rod, you have to buy three feet (everyone seems to jump from 12" to 36") which drives the cost even higher. The best option would be to have one fabricated at a machine shop, which while an excellent choice for quality doesn't help the budget at all.

The bottom line is that a true DIY solution isn't a good value unless you already have the materials on hand (or locally available). When the cost of materials is 50% or more of the cost of a known good commercial solution, the benefit loses traction--I have limited shop time, and I'd rather have the time for other things.

After careful consideration, I went with the Carter. It has much coarser thread and allows for faster adjustment, a real plus. I also like being able to use a 3/8" ratchet. And getting it done so I can use it again. :)

D.