Handles, cushion grip or Shot filled

[Bret Schaffner]

Opinion on handles that you can change tools

Handles with a Grip similar to Bosch Handles that can be filled with shot
foam grip
a hard PCV with shoot like thomson

Thanks sorry for only posting question but only been turning for just over 1 year

[John Keeton]

I have foam covered handles by Monster Lathe Tools and the D-Way handles. I don't have the need for shot in them, and while I am sure some disagree, I don't see the need. Both are comfortable, but I much prefer the D-Way handles. The foam covering on the Monster handles catches shavings and I find myself having to wipe away the shavings when picking up the tool.

Doug Thompson makes a quality metal handle, and while the facets make sense for grip and keeping them from rolling around, my shop is minimally heated in the winter and I don't like picking up a metal handle to turn. I really don't have a problem with my tools rolling around anyway. While turning, they are usually under my lathe on my ballast drawer box, sitting in shavings.

[Roger Chandler]

I have a Thompson handle with my name engraved on it..........I like it! I also have a Serious Toolworks camlock handle with a neoprene cover....it is stainless steel and that one is the most comfortable handle I have ever used.......pricey, but oh so nice! It uses a collet which the cam presses against and locks the gouge in place. Thompson gouges will fit, usually and so will the Serious gouges.

The camlock handle is finely machined, from stainless steel, which prevents it from rusting on wet wood............it is worth it in my opinion.

[Reed Gray]

Wood handles for me, and no shot. The shot might not matter if you turn for a few minutes, but that is too much weight for an hour or 4. It seemed to be a fad for a bit, not sure if it is still popular.

robo hippy

[Thom Sturgill]

I make my own out of aluminium tubing covered with PVC hose. Cost about $10-15 each with the major costs being the cover and shipping. (I just found a local source for metal). I buy 1" x 1/8" wall aluminium aircraft tubing and 3/4" rod ( you can use thinner wall tubing with larger rod, but I like the weight of the 1/8" stuff). Drill a short piece (2-3") of rod to fit the blade and epoxy it in the end of a length of tube. Drill and thread two holes through both pieces for set screws. Cover with PVC tubing from the BORG. Cap the open end - I turn a wooded one - just because. You can turn and force a plug in the end and make a cavity for shot if you feel the need or desire to try it.

Alternative to gluing in the rod - John Jordan and others sell adapters to let you use their hollowing tool handles with smaller blades. Buy a set of these and drill your holes to match. The 1/8" side wall is thick enough (barely) to hold a set screw by itself.

Even though my handles are hollow, I have not felt the need for shot.

As to grip, so far mine are covered with hard PVC and I have one Thompson and one soft covered handle (John Jordan ?). I like the soft cover, but not sure where to buy it. I think it may be the heat shrink stuff they sell for fishing rods - I plan on buying some to try it out. At any rate the handle is solid aluminium 2' long and I use it with my smaller hollowing blades in an adapter. The Thompson feels good in the hand, but as John said, the metal can be cold at times. The shot makes it one of my heaviest handles.

[Bernie Weishapl]

i have a monster and Thompson handles. i do like both. Mostly I use them to switch between tools.

[Bret Schaffner]

I make my own out of aluminium tubing covered with PVC hose. Cost about $10-15 each with the major costs being the cover and shipping. (I just found a local source for metal). I buy 1" x 1/8" wall aluminium aircraft tubing and 3/4" rod ( you can use thinner wall tubing with larger rod, but I like the weight of the 1/8" stuff). Drill a short piece (2-3") of rod to fit the blade and epoxy it in the end of a length of tube. Drill and thread two holes through both pieces for set screws. Cover with PVC tubing from the BORG. Cap the open end - I turn a wooded one - just because. You can turn and force a plug in the end and make a cavity for shot if you feel the need or desire to try it.

Alternative to gluing in the rod - John Jordan and others sell adapters to let you use their hollowing tool handles with smaller blades. Buy a set of these and drill your holes to match. The 1/8" side wall is thick enough (barely) to hold a set screw by itself.

Even though my handles are hollow, I have not felt the need for shot.

As to grip, so far mine are covered with hard PVC and I have one Thompson and one soft covered handle (John Jordan ?). I like the soft cover, but not sure where to buy it. I think it may be the heat shrink stuff they sell for fishing rods - I plan on buying some to try it out. At any rate the handle is solid aluminium 2' long and I use it with my smaller hollowing blades in an adapter. The Thompson feels good in the hand, but as John said, the metal can be cold at times. The shot makes it one of my heaviest handles.

Thom
What's BORG?
And could you please post a few pictures of the handles you made

[Thom Sturgill]

Thom
What's BORG?
And could you please post a few pictures of the handles you made

BORG is a term often used to describe the big box stores, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
One used a commercial adapter (Hosaluk)
266881
Here a tool rack with several. As you can tell I modified the design as I went.
266882

[Grant Wilkinson]

I make mine from aluminum tubing and collets. I wrap with either tennis racket tape (pricey) or the silicon stuff from Lee Valley. Both are nice and soft and don't collect chips. I don't use shot at all. I have a Thompson handle for his monster roughing gouge and it is very nice. I removed all the shot, though.

[Bob Rotche]

I have both Bosch and Thompson handles and like them both very much. Right now I'm preferring the Bosch as the Thompson is feeling a bit too heavy. Am planning on removing the shot and seeing if that helps.

[Scott Hackler]

I have OneWay, Bosch, McNaughton, Thompson and wooden.

OneWay = very comfortable grip but a tad heavy, but it works well for me to hand hollow.
Bosch = fairly comfortable and weight is decent, the rubber material has the slightest sticky feel to it
McNaughton = strange ribbing on handle which I don't care for the feel, weight is similar to OnWay
Thompson = LOVE the flat sides so that when laying it on the bed ways it doesn't roll. Was heavy until I dumped the shot out! A bit cold to the touch, but I have been meaning to buy a neoprene bicycle grip and see if I can slip it over the end (haven't yet)
Wood = light weight, cheap if you make your own and warm to the touch. I like the shape of my Sorby handles.

I have also demo'd Johannes Michelson's tri-lobed handles and like the feel of them but his are designed to have the steel glued in place.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I like wood the best also. I don't like to swap out handles as much as possible. Wood is light and nimble, I think. I do have a heavy McNaughton handle which I keep my 5/8" gouge in. I like the hefty handle only when roughing. Other times I prefer the lightness and feel of wood.

[Wally Dickerman]

It's wood handles for me. I like the feel, and the shape is the way I want it. Swapping handles is a nuisance that I can do without. I've added lead shot to the butt of my HD scrapers and enough to get the balance I want in my larger gouges.

I have a couple of glaser gouges with metal handles. I don't care for feel of metal so seldom use them. I guess some of it is what you're used to.

[Richard Jones]

Mostly wood on spindle gouges, skews, etc. Pipe on big gouges, scrapers, covered with radiator hose. Also use some aluminum as well. Have pipe threaders, so no problem there. I tried shot in the pipe handles, but found it very overrated.......

[robert baccus]

I am getting picky in my old age--it is allowed. I prefer longish heavy handles for the balance it gives. Like kyle I also like the feel of wood and for the last decade or so I find good buys on Bubinga, ebony, bow-arc, redheart ect. My fave is lignum vitae or rosewoods. Also I have quit using ferrels by leaving the front of the tool rounded and full. These woods with an epoxied in shaft are easily as strong as a small dia. nose of ash with a ferrel. The feel without the square end and ferrel and sharp edges is very pleasing especially with only a sanded/buffed carnuba finish. Look up the strengths of these tropicals if you wish. A tool has to prove its performance before it is awarded its dress handle.