Draining Compressor

[Steve Aiken]

I have a small pancake compressor. I use it in a basement shop, about 1 day per week, on average.

I have been draining all the pressure from the tank every time I use it. Sometimes leaving it pressurized overnight if I 'm going to be using it the next day.

Is it possible to drain off the moisture without draining all the air pressure? I've searched the past posts...is it possible/ feasible to install a ball valve on this little tank?

Steve

[Jeff Sudmeier]

With that small of a tank, I would probably just drain it all the time. That way you are sure all of the moisture is out of it. With the larger tanks it takes too long for them to refill, to drain them.

[Kevin Herber]

Steve - I got a ball valve from the BORG and put it on my small compresser. (CF - 20 gal I think) Works great. I just open it after each use and all the air/water comes out. Heck of a noise, but I don't have to babysit it while it bleeds down.

The compressor was a couple years old before I saw the ball valve setup on this fourm. The first few bleeds were pretty messy with rusty water. Now all is clean and much less moisture with each bleed.

My tank is not a pancake. It is a standard looking horizontal tank. I used one 90 elbow, one 4 inch extension and the ball valve.

Just bleed off the air, unscrew the existing valve and take it with you to the BORG. You can get a 90 degree fitting, extensions and the valve. The extensions put the valve out where it is readily accessible. Be sure to use teflon tape on the connections.

Good luck. You'll be glad you did it.

-- Kevin

[Steve Jenkins]

You don't have to drain all the air out of the tank. turn the valve off after the water stops coming out.

[Chris Padilla]

Yep, ball valves work extremely well for this. Gotta love the quarter-turn ease and control, too.

[aurelio alarcon]

I thouught that there is an "in line" water seperator that you can install.

[Steve Jenkins]

There is but it is generally put in the line after the compressor tank. You still have to drain the moisture from the tank.

[Chris Padilla]

Yes, please, Folks, do be conscious of draining your large tank compressors...those can be deadly over time!

[Curt Harms]

a street ell, 4" nipple and a ball valve works well. The valve is right at the front beneath the tank and readily reachable. Draining the moisture is a must, and it seems the elbow/nipple provides a nice low point that could be replaced if it corrodes.

I thought of an analogy to drain all the air/don't drain all the air. There have been some problems with aircraft pressure vessels cracking due to metal fatigue. I believe most if not all problems have occurred on aircraft used on short segment high frequency routes. In other words, the pressure vessel undergoes several inflate-deflate cycles per day. I wonder if filling and emptying an air compressor contributes to metal fatigue more than just leaving the tank pressurized, and how much of an issue metal fatigue is with air compressor tanks.

[Joe Scarfo]

I simply screwed a 10' hose into the hole where the stock drain cock was. At the other end of the hose is the typical 3/8" female fitting.

I have a home made blow gun that I use to drain the tank. I pull the house outside and simply squeeze the trigger and the tank drains..

Another plus is as moisture builds up, it's in the hose, not the tank.

Good Luck...

Joe in Tampa...

[aurelio alarcon]

There is but it is generally put in the line after the compressor tank. You still have to drain the moisture from the tank.That's right. I don't know what I was thinking!

[Randy Meijer]

I've got a cheap little no-name Chinese compressor that I only use for airing up bicycle tires and blowing dust around. The drain valve is located at about the 5 o'clock position if you look at a cross-section of the tank instead of right at the bottom. My neighbor has a different brand; but his is set up the same way. Does this mean that I have to tip the tank a little to get it to fully drain?? Thanks!!

[Randy Meijer]

Thought I would bump this up again and see if anyone has an answer for me about draining my little compressor?? (Please see previous post)

[Steve Jenkins]

yes I would think you would need to tip it so the drain is at the bottom. I guess it is always possible that they have some kind of line inside the tank that goes to the bottom so you wouldn't need to tip it but I doubt it.

[Chris Fite]

I have had a hotdog compressor for many years. I drain it everyday. It holds up well.

[John Hemenway]

Randy, I have one of the Porter-Cable pancake compressors. Drain is like yours, not at the true low point on the pancake.

I tip mine and get lots more water out. I assume the design is to protect the drain valve but it does make complete draining a PIA.

[Thomas Canfield]

I also have a Porter Cable pancake compressor/tank and itg looks like the unit needs to be tipped about 30 degrees to get all the water out of the tank. I run the compressor in a climate controlled shop and did not think that there was much water until I tipped the unit to remove the drain valve, and then I was surprised.

After reading some of the previous threads, I have been planning to install a ball valve for some time but never carried out on the plan. Now I am considering making a base platform at 30 degrees to get the tank to free drain to the drain connection. The compressor is an oil-less model and I am not sure if there is any problem with the compressor operating at the angle since there is no internal oil level problem.

Any feed-back on operating at an angle?

[Randy Meijer]

Thanks, gents!! Kinda figured that's what everyone would say but just wanted to be sure!!

[John Gregory]

Harbor freight has an auto drain system for $10-16. Do a search on their site for "compressor drain"

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19917

I just attach a small piece of hose into my sink and have at it! :D

[Alan Tolchinsky]

How in the world did you get that up there anyway? Inquiring minds need to know. :)

[Chris Padilla]

How in the world did you get that up there anyway? Inquiring minds need to know. :)

:D

It took a neighbor, my bench, a 10' 2x10, and some elbow grease to get that sucker up there. They really aren't heavy...just extemely top-heavy and cumbersome to control because of that.

I will put one of those water heater earthquake straps around its mid-section to ensure it doesn't move. I don't think it would move anyway but this will be precautionary.