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View Full Version : Any Tips on using the Easy Rougher?



Roger Chandler
07-17-2013, 10:20 PM
I have been thinking about getting an Easy Rougher from Easy Wood Tools, for a while. I don't have any issues with roughing with my bowl gouges at all.........but I have another reason for getting one...........boxes......lidded boxes. For some reason, I seem to get into box mode with some regularity .......sometimes by request, and sometimes because I seem to accumulate some smallish pieces of wood and need to keep them cycled through and a lot of them are ideal box size blanks.

Now to the why of the easy rougher for box making. To date I have been using a square scraper for going down the inside walls and getting that square corner on the inside bottom.......after so many sharpenings on the side and the end to get a very sharp 90 degree corner, I have lost the square and have to adjust the angle of my tool presentation.

The Easy Rougher has a square carbide tip [available] so I ordered one today, and I thought since I have it coming, I might as well try it out for .........what else.........roughing! :rolleyes:;)

Any tips from experienced users on this tool? I got the mid size with the 14" handle, so if there is any learning curve or special precautions, I would love to hear from some of you who have used this tool! Thanks much! :)

Kathy Marshall
07-17-2013, 11:32 PM
Roger, the Easy Wood tools are easy to use. There are some videos on their site showing how to use them, but basically just keep the cutter on center or slightly above, with the tool level or slightly downhill towards the tip. I have the large set and have used them extended about 5-6" over the tool rest with no problems. When the cutter starts getting dull, you can hone the top on a diamond card and get a little more use from it. I know others have found cheap sources for the cutters.

Billy Tallant
07-18-2013, 12:23 AM
Roger, I use the EWT pen turning tool. Great tool... Will definately dig in & take off the chips. Kathy gave you the main instructions needed. Just be careful with the tip, it will definately grab & take some wood away. Of course, all my work is on pen blanks so I'm wanting to take only a little wood at a time.

Len Mullin
07-18-2013, 1:41 AM
It was a wise decision to order the EWT tool, it is amazing how fast and easily it will remove fiber. I purchased the complete set and am very happy to own them. I use mine for roughing and I use the finisher for a finish that you almost don't have to sand. I think that you will be pleased with your purchase.
Len

Robert Henrickson
07-18-2013, 8:33 AM
I bought one several years ago and used it a lot for a while, but I probably have used it once or twice in the last couple years. Even making a wide variety of shapes, including boxes, I just don't use it.

Roger Chandler
07-18-2013, 10:25 AM
Helpful information..........thanks to all! Thanks for the heads-up Kathy on the keeping level or slightly downward...........makes sense, as it is essentially a scraper.

Robert Henrickson
07-18-2013, 10:55 AM
Another thing to remember is that the Easy Rougher tends to throw the chips/shavings straight back at you. That's one of the reasons I stopped using mine, especially for bowl roughing. They sell a shield to deflect the cuttings, which implicitly acknowledges this is a problem, but I didn't want the added expense for what is already not inexpensive. I didn't find the tool sufficiently useful to invest more. At current prices, it is one of the most expensive tools I have, but I rarely use it. I went back primarily to my bowl gouge, whether for bowls, spindles, plates, etc. Perhaps my disaffection is due to the fact that I turned with bowl gouges etc several years before I tried an Easy Rougher. On the other hand, my Hunter tools get frequent use. Other people will have different experiences.

James Combs
07-18-2013, 11:17 AM
Roger, as Kathy stated, level and straight is the way to use it and as you said it is basically a scraper but man does it do a great corner. I have both the midi and a home made version of the full size. For roughing use I will take the blank in to just over final diameter at about half the with of the blade(1/8" to 1/4" depending on tool) at a time. The process kind of sounds like, zip, zip, zip, etc until all the way across the length of the blank, then I switch to a finishing tool. I also use the midi almost exclusively for making tenons for scroll chuck use. I also made a midi size EW clone that uses a full size(15mm) 4" radius-ed cutter (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html)which does a very good job of finishing. I use it almost exclusively when making pens. I will roll it up on one corner which I have rounded slightly and use it as a skew and lay it flat as a scraper, very versatile.

Edit: In case you or anyone else is interested in less expensive full size cutters, I get mine here (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html). Scroll down the page to the 11th cutter, $2.61ea, 10 to a pack.

Roger Chandler
07-18-2013, 11:20 AM
Roger, as Kathy stated, level and straight is the way to use it and as you said it is basically a scraper but man does it do a great corner. I have both the midi and a home made version of the full size. For roughing use I will take the blank in to just over final diameter at about half the with of the blade(1/8" to 1/4" depending on tool) at a time. The process kind of sounds like, zip, zip, zip, etc until all the way across the length of the blank, then I switch to a finishing tool. I also use the midi almost exclusively for making tenons for scroll chuck use. I also made a midi size EW clone that uses a full size(15mm) 4" radius-ed cutter which does a very good job of finishing. I use it almost exclusively when making pens. I will roll it up on one corner which I have rounded slightly and use it as a skew and lay it flat as a scraper, very versatile.

Thanks for that info, James..........I appreciate it! Btw........what is the correct size for the ER? they sell different sizes........

James Combs
07-18-2013, 11:28 AM
I have edited my previous reply with a cutter link since you last posted in case you missed it.

Reed Gray
07-18-2013, 12:15 PM
I know I could make square corners in the bottom of my boxes if I wanted, but I found them difficult, and there always seemed to be a mark in the corner that wouldn't sand out. I switched to a radius corner. Much easier. I don't think you really want a 90/90 degree corner on your scraper for the inside of the boxes. As you sweep across the bottom of the box, if the box surfaces are at 90 degrees to each other, when you hit the corner, you have both sides of the cutter in the wood at the same time, putting twice the cutting pressure on the tool. Not too bad if you are ready for it. Best to have one side relieved as in the side at 90, and the bottom at 85 or so degrees.

robo hippy

Roger Chandler
07-18-2013, 12:30 PM
I have edited my previous reply with a cutter link since you last posted in case you missed it.


Most appreciative of that link, JD........thanks!

Roger Chandler
07-18-2013, 12:33 PM
I know I could make square corners in the bottom of my boxes if I wanted, but I found them difficult, and there always seemed to be a mark in the corner that wouldn't sand out. I switched to a radius corner. Much easier. I don't think you really want a 90/90 degree corner on your scraper for the inside of the boxes. As you sweep across the bottom of the box, if the box surfaces are at 90 degrees to each other, when you hit the corner, you have both sides of the cutter in the wood at the same time, putting twice the cutting pressure on the tool. Not too bad if you are ready for it. Best to have one side relieved as in the side at 90, and the bottom at 85 or so degrees.

robo hippy

I have made many with the 90 degree corner, Reed. You are correct about 2 surfaces of the scraper touching..........what I do is to tilt the opposite corner and go back towards the center and flatten the bottom with a very light cut........works like a charm, but you do have to be careful about the presentation and I always use a firm supportive grip on the tool, but not enough to make me unable to use a light touch.

I think a square corner looks better than a radius corner.........just my opinion.

David C. Roseman
07-19-2013, 3:19 PM
Roger, I think you'll love the EW Rougher as another tool in the arsenal. Great for quick plunge cuts on bowls and boxes, especially in green wood. I have the acrylic chip deflector, but rarely use it.

Best tip I can offer is on source of supply for replacement cutters. James' link for the straight-sided cutters at Global Tooling is great. http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html

I bought a pack of ten awhile back. Perfect fit for the Easy Rougher (15mm x 15mm x 2.5mm), and hard to beat for under $3 each. Haven't used them a lot, but I've not been able to tell the difference in quality of cut from the EWT OEM replacements. Frankly doubt there really is any. They are sharp as the dickens. But hey, we are talking about a "rougher". ;)

Also have a look at these cutters:
http://www.pmctool.com/product.php?productID=2178 Less than $5 in pack of ten. Very slightly radiused, so hard to catch a corner.


David

Wayne Sharp
07-19-2013, 7:43 PM
Roger, if you have not purchased one yet you are more than welcome to borrow mine to take it for a spin. Just let me know and I will get it to you. I have had the EWT rougher and finisher for some time and love them both. v/r Wayne

Roger Chandler
07-19-2013, 8:58 PM
Roger, if you have not purchased one yet you are more than welcome to borrow mine to take it for a spin. Just let me know and I will get it to you. I have had the EWT rougher and finisher for some time and love them both. v/r Wayne

Hey Wayne........good to see you here! Your first post on SMC, and it was a reply to my question.....thank you! I have already ordered my easy rougher and it has been shipped.....looking forward to getting it!

Wayne Sharp
07-19-2013, 9:01 PM
You will love it I am sure. Take care