Best Panel Material For Garage Door

[Paul Sylvester]

Hi all. In a weak moment several years back, I purchased a new wood garage door! I did not realize (until it was too late) that the inset panels were some sort of fiberboard. They are now deformed, cracked, and therefore junk. I plan to use my oscillating tool to remove the backside round over lip so I can remove the panels. I will mill some new quarter round to secure the new panels. I could use some advice in choosing a good material to use for new panels.

I looked at thin luan plywood and bought a small piece and left it in the garage for a while to see how it would do. The panel does not stay flat! I have thought about using vinyl designed for use as beadboard and the lines would add interest but I am concerned about the weight. I have also looked at the plastic panels used in rest rooms but I do not know about painting them as they have a shine to them that does not go with what would be flat painted rails and styles. I have even thought about making some raised panels using Azec.

You wealth of experience would be greatly appreciated.

And yes, perhaps the sensible solution is to simply buy a new door!

[Jim Andrew]

If the frame is good, and you are determined to save the door, I'd make raised panels out of a weather resistant wood. White oak and walnut both last well outside. Of course the ideal thing is to buy a steel garage door with insulation, or add the insulation later. I put a wood frame garage door in my house, because the doors were on sale, lasted less than 10 years, then I put up a steel garage door and it is about 23 years old, and still looks good.

[Mel Fulks]

The weight seems to be a big deal on garage doors. The luan ,even well painted ,doesn't work well,unless you glue cloth to it first . How about sheet metal?

[Peter Quinn]

You could try a marine grade plywood, okume for instance. Something meant to be exposed. Then paint and seal it well before install. Then start saving for the new door. Most garage doors don't have any protection, a few more have some but inadequate protection. I'm talking wide soffit, a roof or awning to deflect sun and rain. Ask yourself why the first panels failed? Just pressed wood junk? Maybe so, pressed wood gives up easy, even exterior grades, but it doesn't just fail on its own. Must be getting significant moisture exposure, wet dry cycles, sun, this will kill any wood eventually. Sure, some species will last longer.

Luan is not the solution to any problem I've ever had. Might make floor underlayment at best for roll down laminates, not much more, don't expect much from it. You should be able to get a good marine grade plywood in most New England states for a short term fix.

If you go raised panels make certain the opener system, springs and tracks can take the weight. Changing all the panels in a 7X9 door from 1/4" hard board to white oak raised panels is no small jump up in weight, and these things are usually a system meant to work together. You can get tracks and springs meant to hold almost any weight door you can imagine, just make sure your system is balanced for any additional weight.

[Dan Neuhaus]

MDO plywood might be a good choice. I've seen signs last many years fully exposed.

[Jay Jolliffe]

If you want them to last how about Azek....You can machine just like wood & won't rot. AZEK PVC Sheets are manufactured in 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and 1 inch thicknesses and in sheet sizes from 4ft x 8ft up to 4ft x 20ft.

[Jerome Stanek]

I would look into Dibond for this Light and strong no painting

[Jay Jolliffe]

That stuff looks handy....Never heard of it but looks pretty good.

[Sam Murdoch]

As the doors are wood I would not hesitate to replace the panels with wood as Jim Andrew suggested - kind of. I would be inclined to use cedar or douglas fir or mahogany. They all will mill nicely for raised panels, will hold a properly applied paint, and cedar in particular, will not add much to the weight compared to other wood options. Marine ply is not a bad option but doesn't lend it self to raised panels and can be very heavy depending on what you buy. I like Azek but would be disinclined to use it as I think it can be to dimensionally unstable (especially if it will get some full sun). If used as a flat panel in the shade I would give it more consideration otherwise, though it machines OK, if you make raised panels out of it the difference in the surface of the hips will be a problem for finishing.

[Jeff Duncan]

I think I'd probably look into MDO.....the material they used to use for highway signs and such around here. With a couple good coats of paint I would think you would get a pretty good life out of it. One thing I'd be focused on is the joint at the bottom of the panel. If water gets in there over time and has no way to get out, nothing will last for too many years. Ideally you would have a way for water to drain out of the joint.

As for Azek and other plastics of the like, you can look into them but my feeling is it's good stuff in certain situations where it's fully supported. It has no real strength on it's own and if your panels are on the larger size I'd be worried about it bowing in time?

good luck,
JeffD

[Jerome Stanek]

I use Dibond for out door signs and as a backer for hdu signs

[Mel Fulks]

All of the suggested materials are good but some are going to be expensive in that you might have to buy more than you need and buy retail ,and might be too heavy. If you take the luan ,cut to size and glue some light canvas duck or any smooth cotton to the outside it and paint it it will last for many years. Paint before installing and bed them in caulk. Any yellow glue will work fine. Thin it slightly with water,apply to cloth and luan,stack with plastic bags or Saran Wrap between the panels ,clamp or weight the stack between two thicker pieces of wood. Nothing new here ,this method was widely used on solid wood for centurys. Probably good idea to glue them up over sized ,and then trim.

[Myk Rian]

I think I'd probably look into MDO
+1. I use it to make lighthouses.

[Lee Schierer]

When I built the garage door for my boat barn 20 years ago, I used T-111 siding. It is just now needing replacement, I think I repainted it twice in that time frame.266689
It will add weight to your door so you may need to replace the springs lifting the door or get a pro to adjust the door spring if it is the torsion type.

[John R Green]

How about not installing the panels. Overlay the frame with 1x? ( you pick the width ) T&G V-joint western red cedar. Prime and paint before installing. Miter your overlaps where the frame hinges. Nail right to existing wooden frame. Have a garage door guy tighten up your springs. Keep painted

[Rich Engelhardt]

I purchased a new wood garage door! I did not realize (until it was too late) that the inset panels were some sort of fiberboard. They are now deformed, cracked, and therefore junkThe builder put one of those in when our house was built in 1986. By 1990, it was junk. No matter how often I painted it, it always looked nasty. Too much movement of the wood always left a nasty picture frame type of paint damage around the inside edge of the panels. Not all over,,,just enough of them @ one time to always look bad.
We had a steel door put on & I haven't looked back.

I'm a slave to too many things around the house as it is. Getting out from under that stupid wood door was a blessing.

[Billy Jones]

I think the change in the panels out by wounding and destroying it, yet pushing a new one back in is the problem. I'd make shapes of the right size, and use a router and guide bush to cut out sufficient material to eliminate the panel.

[Mel Fulks]

My old door had what seemed to be "untempered " Masonite ,sounds like that's what you have. "Tempered " Masonite would be better. Either could be covered with glued and painted cloth to last longer than the door itself.

[Mel Fulks]

Oops! An antique thread from 2013

[johnny means]

Well, since i have to actually type a message, I made a garage door from signboard (MDO) 12 years ago. It's still flat and in good condition.

[Travis Porter]

Jeld Wen now makes an outdoor grade of MDF that I saw recently that might work very well for this.

[Lee Schierer]

Guys this is a Five year old thread..........