Building a desk out of MDF

[Serge Goudreau]

I’m in the process of building a corner desk out (free) MDF ¾” and so far a got a few pieces of my project cut. I am planning to put some pine trim on the edges which I’ll rip from 1 inch stock, or even get some from the Box store. And eventually stain the whole thing with some dark Minwax gel stain (I read somewhere that it does not require priming or sanding sealer) The wife wants some kind of Formica for desktop. I’m not sure how to proceed on this one? Glue the Formica and then put the trim or put the trim first and then put the Formica after…It’s a corner desk and the top will be in three parts. Thanks for the input...
Thank you Ana White for the pictures

[Sam Murdoch]

Not your question but just as an alternative - I have used MDF as desk tops. They look great with a couple of coats of urethane or varnish - are smooth and durable - and you can easily add a wood edge. If you choose to use formica either way you describe will work. It is easier to finish the edge if the laminate covers the wood but if you have a Festool domino or a biscuiter you can apply wood trim flush with the laminate top after the laminate is applied and trimmed. Without the Domino or Biscuits I would attach the wood first to the substrate then apply the laminate over the wood.

[Chris Padilla]

Glue the trim on...put the formica over the MDF and trim...then use a laminate router to dress up the edges cutting the formica and MDF at the same time. However, this might depend on the type of edge finishing you have in mind. My kitchen counters have formica over plywood with oak edge trim. Then then routed a nice edge into both the edge trim and top. It is a clean look.

When I deal with non-hardwood to non-hardwood joints (or non-hardwood to hardwood), I like to use biscuits or dominoes (splines and dowels work...even pocket screws would be fine) to get some extra strength in the joint. These can also help with alignment (or can cause MISalignment if you aren't careful!) and prevent slipping when gluing.

Also, be sure to seal any exposed MDF. Just slop on some cheap poly...anything really...even old paint if the exposed MDF won't be seen. This may not be as important for MDF used indoors, however, but I found it helps MDF kept outside where temp/humidity has larger gradients of change.

[Serge Goudreau]

This is great information, thanks... but right now, I'm concern about the fact that the desktop will be held together only by the bracing under. We all know that MDF is heavy, my question is; should I add some additional....something-something to avoid the buckling were the pieces meet when the time comes to move it from the garage/shop to the "office"! Mind you I can get a 60 x 60 x 3/4 board, but it would be just as heavy! Any ideas? Thanks

[Mel Fulks]

If you haven't already bought all your material look for a premium grade "ultralight" mdf.Weighs much less.

[Serge Goudreau]

My material is FREE! I work at a plant that makes the stuff, anything from 1/4 to 1 1/2 thick I could inquire if we make lighter stuff ( but I have not seen it yet)

[Sam Murdoch]

This is great information, thanks... but right now, I'm concern about the fact that the desktop will be held together only by the bracing under. We all know that MDF is heavy, my question is; should I add some additional....something-something to avoid the buckling were the pieces meet when the time comes to move it from the garage/shop to the "office"! Mind you I can get a 60 x 60 x 3/4 board, but it would be just as heavy! Any ideas? Thanks

If you intend to build this completely with MDF I would add some 3" rips of the MDF glued and screwed the underside of the top - one at the very front and one at the very back making certain that you are picking up the joints. At the joints you could start with some front to back rips applied to the underside of the main top allowing 1-1/2" to go past the edge and then when you go to assemble the unit the 2 side pieces would land on those supports that have been glued to the main top. You mention using pine for the edge so you could also just add a 1-1/2" x 3/4" piece of pine under the front edge or making it 2-1/4" tall applied to the front of the MDF and then overlaid with the formica.