Deft Brushing Lacquer - Need Help

[Adrian Anguiano]

Im making some bottle stoppers for a friend. This is the first one, the picture is BEFORE I put any finish on it. Its Bocote... very oily wood.

So after reading lots of posts on different finishes, I decided on Lacquer since it doesnt dissolve in alcohol like a shellac product. I didnt want to use CA because I wanted a natural looking finish. I skipped the oils because I have 5 to do, and need them done by this weekend... didnt want to wait around for each to dry.

I got the Semi Gloss Brushing Lacquer from a pint can. Stirred very well. Put some on a blue towel and slathered it all over the wood. After about a minute, it was all gone. I turned on the lathe and buffed with a blue towel to make sure it really was dry, and it was.

FYI: Im in a Texas Garage. aka 100degrees, humidity 60+

So I did the same thing about 4 times. Slathered it on. Waited a minute, it looked and felt dry, then buffed it with my blue paper towel.

I then remembered I read somewhere to burnish with a brown paper bag. So i did that. Then did abother 2 applications.

Im left with a finish that looks almost exactly with what I started with. And I can still rub my fingernail into some of the tiny grain pores of the wood. Like they didnt get filled.

Any suggestions?? This is my first time using Deft Brushing Lacquer - Semi Gloss.


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[Prashun Patel]

Keep applying it. You really should apply several coats and allow it to dry before buffing.

If you really want to speed this up, buy a single rattle can of Deft lacquer. That stuff sprays on wonderfully. You can apply several coats in about an hour. Wait overnight, then buff.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Adrian,

I often put a coat of dewaxed shellac on to seal the wood, especially oily woods. Then I apply Deft brushing lacquer.

I use Deft brushing lacquer for the very reason you stated but I apply it while the bottle stopper is still on the lathe. I also apply multiple coats and burnish/friction each coat while on the lathe. Be careful as you can "burn" the finish if too much heat results as a result of the friction. I have stripped the finish off when necessary using lacquer thinner.

My suggestion is to try adding another coat.

[Adrian Anguiano]

Man I figured 6 coats would be enough to at least seal the wood.

I was doing it all with the stopper on the lathe.

It just seemed like no matter how much a lathered on, it would dry in about 30 seconds. Then I buffed it to make sure the finish was nice and even.

Ken, how many coats do you usually put?

[Thom Sturgill]

With oily woods like bocote, I probably would not have applied any finish, just buffed - maybe some wax.

If finishing, I clean with mineral spirits first to remove excess surface oil. (actually last sanding is wet sanded with MS) . Flood with the brush on lacquer thinned 4:1 with MS - this will soak in - wet sand to about 1200-1500 grit reapplying the filler until there are no shiny spots (pores) showing after sanding. for production work stop heare and let harden overnight, then buff.

For 'art' pieces - Spray three or four light coats of rattle can (I use Deft semi) while on the lathe giving each about 10-15 minutes and wet sanding with progressively finer grits up to about 12,000. This should yield a museum quality finish if done right. Start to end is only an hour or so.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Adrian,

It really depends on how thinned the lacquer is.

Usually 4-6 coats is enough.

I did forget to mention that to start, I typically wipe it down with a solvent....then a coat or 2 of dewaxed shellac to seal it.....then friction on the lacquer.

[robert baccus]

Like Tom said most hard tropicals look very good with only a good paste carnuba wax buffed on. When fooling with lacquer remember brushing lacquer is merely lacquer thinned with retatder which is a slow drying thinner. It allows the brush marks to level out by drying slower. When building a laq. finish save yourself time and laq. by using a good sanding sealer first to seal and fill the pores. Get it level by sanding and then add your finish coat.

[Adrian Anguiano]

Hey Ken what product t do you use for dewaxed shellac

[Jack Gaskins]

Hey Ken what product t do you use for dewaxed shellac

Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat. You can get it at most hardware stores. It is a very good product. Zinsser company is the sole maker of dewaxed shellac products.

[Prashun Patel]

To put a fine point on it: You'd find it as Zinsser SealCoat. If it has "bullseye" in the name, it's waxed.

And Zinsser might be the only Bigbox-available premixed, dewaxed brand, but dewaxed shellac flakes are very easy to come by if you are willing to mail order. They also come in more shades than the blonde that SealCoat is.