kickers and guides - drawer design

[Sean Hughto]

I have made a good number of drawers, but few pieces where the drawers moved in a frame or web as opposed to a more or less complete carcase. In web type support situations, what can you expereinced types tell me about how important kickers are? Does drawers size affect the need for kickers? I've made drawers that simple run in the hole - and they work well - at least in smallish drawers. I've made drawers that run on wood side mounts that fit in a groove let into the drawer sides - and those run very well, even on big drawers. I was thinking about trying a middle guide for my current project wher the drawer is kept straight running by a runner mounted in the frame and a dadoed slot piece affixed to the bottom. Can anyone tell me whether it's worth the trouble as opposed to just letting the drawer ride on the side runners? Thanks. These are not large drawers - under-table sorts inthe 14" x 12" x 3".

[Stuart Tierney]

Last time I did it, I used oak glides in the drawer bottom, fixed solid at the front and slotted down the drawer bottom to help stop drumming from the drawer bottom and keep everything aligned nicely. The guides on the front frame piece were also oak, and I went with paraffin wax (candle) to keep it all running smooth. I did put the guides fixed to the back of the front frame member so they were out of the way and somewhat adjustable. The front most edge of the guides was also the drawer stop.

There were 5 drawers of about the scale you're considering and there were 3 double width drawers with 2 guides per drawer in them.

I was very pleased with the results. They virtually eliminated racking of the drawer, and made for quite oversquare drawers that could be opened and closed on a corner with one finger easily. A little fussing and fiddling may be, but in normal use it's all hidden out of sight and I think, worthwhile.

For a simple set of drawers, maybe not worth the extra effort though. Going through all that is a bit of a luxury really.

Sorry, nothing like pictures or anything. Just memory, and a wish I'd made that for myself rather than someone else...

Kickers (I had to look it up.) were used, and I think they were rather important, especially to stop the drawer dropping down and to guide the drawers vertically. Unless you want to hold the drawers up, along with anything/everything in them.

Stu.

[Sean Hughto]

Thanks for the input, Stuart. I appreciate it.

[Steve Voigt]

what can you … tell me about how important kickers are?

Hi Sean,
Are your drawer sides and back narrower than the front? If so, you will need kickers. If all pieces are the same width, then no, the web frame above each drawer will keep the drawer from falling out.


I was thinking about trying a middle guide for my current project where the drawer is kept straight running by a runner mounted in the frame and a dadoed slot piece affixed to the bottom. Can anyone tell me whether it's worth the trouble as opposed to just letting the drawer ride on the side runners? Thanks. These are not large drawers - under-table sorts in the 14" x 12" x 3".

In my opinion, nothing beats center guides. They are less prone to racking than any other method I have tried. And they are cheap to make and last forever. While you don't really need them for 14" drawers, they will help.

[Sean Hughto]

Good stuff, Steve. I tend to make my drawers with all sides the same height, but this particular web frame does not have anything to keep the drawers from tipping on the sides except the tabletop an inch or so above. The opening at the front would keep the drawer from falling out, but may allow a slight amount of tipping when extended.

I'll try the center guides. I've seen them in person on a couple of other folks' pieces I admired, and thought those drawers were very nice to use.

[Stuart Tierney]

About the only other bit of advice I might offer is that close fitting guides work better, and long will mean you can leave things a little 'loose' to account for movement. I don't know how it is where you are, but we get wild humidity swings here so I had to 'adjust' things a bit over a couple weeks until it all worked when wet, dry and anything in between.

Oh, a small taper/chamfer on guides/slides is essential. Trying to manipulate a drawer and a guide you can't see is rather difficult...

Stu.

[glenn bradley]

I use kickers on any drawer that is not otherwise supported when being moved in and out. If I am using side-mounted wooden runners set into dados on the drawer sides, I rely on those. Piston fit drawers take care of themselves. Webframe drawers get kickers from me. YMMV.

[Jack Curtis]

... In my opinion, nothing beats center guides. They are less prone to racking than any other method I have tried. And they are cheap to make and last forever. While you don't really need them for 14" drawers, they will help.

I agree and can add that I have chests with center mounted drawers that are more than 50 years old that still work as smoothly as day 1.

[Andrew Hughes]

I only use center mount when the drawer is wider than it is deep.Maybe some already mentions it i confess to not reading all of the posts.