non-schwarz saw bench

[Sam Stephens]

thought i'd share some pics of my new (non-schwarz) saw bench. It's not my design. After poking around the google for some input, I settled on this split-top design. It's 2x BORG SYP construction w/ poplar stretchers. It's about 32" long. After some initial use, I really like the center slot for ripping support. I may also add some dog holes for clamping so it can double duty as a mortising bench.

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Sam

[Ron Bontz]

I like it and see one in my future. Thank you.

[Chris Hachet]

I like it and see one in my future. Thank you.I see one in my future also, thanks for the idea!

[Tony Wilkins]

I like it too. Question about the construction: is the 'back' a solid piece or does it rely solely on the tenons into the bases on both ends for structural strength?

[Adam Cruea]

I like it too. Question about the construction: is the 'back' a solid piece or does it rely solely on the tenons into the bases on both ends for structural strength?

Look like it's just pinned tenons (which are extremely strong).

I definitely like that. I may end up making one, too.

[Michael Ray Smith]

I like it and see one in my future. Thank you.

+1. Very nice. I made a bench with a split top a couple of years ago, but it's pretty crude. One of these days I'll make another, and this design looks like a good choice.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks nice and strong.

Wish that SYP was available around here.

jtk

[Michael Ray Smith]

Care to list the rest of the dimensions?

[Chris Griggs]

I like that. Very nice design and construction. A good saw bench is an indispensable shop appliance!

Thanks for sharing yours.

[Chuck Nickerson]

This design is on my list, with a second bench that will stack underneath.

[Pat Barry]

Looks to me like you could call that a table saw bench. Nice work!

[Sam Stephens]

Care to list the rest of the dimensions?

the split tops are 5 1/2 x 32" w/ a 1/2" space between them. The base is 3" wide by 18". All is from a single 8' 2x12 SYP. Final thickness is ~ 1 3/8". The bench height is just under my knee at 17" (I'm 5'9"). The sides (legs?) are M/T into the base and drawbored -that's the only connection to the base. The lower stretcher (poplar) connecting the ends is DTd into the sides. Between the DTs at the top and the pinned M/T, this unit is extremely rigid and easily supports my weight and then some. The one this was based on laminated 2 pieces for the base, but this seemed overkill imo. There was also an upper stretcher under the top, but since mine didn't flex at all with my weight, I didn't add it.

thanks for the comments all. I figured I'd put this out there, as a very good alternative to other designs that I have seen.

[Niels Cosman]

Great design-Very nice!

[David Weaver]

That's a nice piece of gear for sawing. Curious about the mortising, if you put some dog holes in it, can you share some pictures of it in use?

I put dog holes in mine (my saw bench is far less nice than yours) and did use them a fair bit at first, but if nothing else, they're a great place to throw the hold fasts if. I don't use them as much now, but the holes will never hurt anything.

[Jim Matthews]

I built a variant of Acharaya Kumarswami's sawbench (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176915-Saw-bench-design-to-share) - with holdfasts on one side.

Instead of a split top, a press-fit center board resides between the outer boards.
Your design is really clever, in that the saw can pass right down the middle.

With mine, you get started, then reset the works over the opening.
I would think you can really get going with this version.

[Tony Shea]

That's a nice piece of gear for sawing. Curious about the mortising, if you put some dog holes in it, can you share some pictures of it in use?

I put dog holes in mine (my saw bench is far less nice than yours) and did use them a fair bit at first, but if nothing else, they're a great place to throw the hold fasts if. I don't use them as much now, but the holes will never hurt anything.

I also put some holes in my sawbench originally for the same reason. Thought I might use it to mortise on but ended up never using it for this purpose. I always end up prefering to mortise on my Roubo style bench. But as David said they will not hurt if you think you'll use them.

I really like this design, wish I had seen it a while back. I built a Schwarz style sawbench and actually do not care for it all that much. I use it all the time but that's because it is necessary. I like that your top has zero overhang on the ends as I find myself sometimes tipping mine over once in a while, more so when I use it as a step stool to reach up on a high shelf and come tumbling down in a heap. You'd think I'd learn by now but that damn overhang gets me all the time. The splayed legs on mine are also a poor design when ripping long boards. If I was to continue through with my rip I'd end up right into the leg with the nose of the saw. It's not really as bad as I make it sound but think your design is def superior.

[Harold Burrell]

I'm sorry, but I don't like it at all.



(Actually, I do. And I may very well build one like it. I just wanted to be different.) :o

[Winton Applegate]

Good Going ! I am all for low saw horses. Most are too tall.
So far I have not made a ripping horse. I have several Krenov saw horses though. Nice short ones to suit my height exactly for hand sawing. I put a lot of thought and experimentation in before making them. Out of bubinga (of course).
I might have made the center slot off center that way wider plank is supported when cutting off a narrow board. Easy to say after hind site.

Your bench is great ! A very useful tool.
Thanks for educating me on the finer things in life.

[jim goddard]

I built something similar exc instead of making it a single unit I built 2. I can use them side by side or alone. Theyre made of 4/4 stuff and have held up really well and are light. I like this design much better than other splay leg designs.

[Mike Holbrook]

Very similar to a picture I found that I have been planing to make:
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Maybe this is where the OP got the idea too? I think the OP came up with several interesting changes if this was the original idea.

I may make something between these two, with the single board base but using the aprons on the top. Holdfast holes in the aprons might come in handy for some work.

[Jim Matthews]

Holdfast holes in the aprons might come in handy for some work.

That would be the place I loose my smallest of surface clamps, bang my shins or tear my good pair of pants.
Anything below knee level is in darkness, in my dimly wit shop.

[Maurice Ungaro]

.... in my dimly wit shop.
Jim, my shop is pretty dimly wit too!

[Mike Holbrook]

I guess Dimly Wits don't think to remove their surface clamps from the sides of their benches when they are done using them? So maybe I need to think on that one, my problem is lack of light and sometimes even lack of spark in my thinking area.

I like Jim G's idea of making two benches, half of the OP's for each I think. Jim Tolpin suggests that method in New Traditional Woodworker.

[Sam Stephens]

Very similar to a picture I found that I have been planing to make:
266083

Maybe this is where the OP got the idea too? I think the OP came up with several interesting changes if this was the original idea.

I may make something between these two, with the single board base but using the aprons on the top. Holdfast holes in the aprons might come in handy for some work.

yep. that was the one.

[Bobby O'Neal]

I like that there appears to be another heavy duty ripping saw sitting in the background of the pictures

[Rob Paul]

I built something similar exc instead of making it a single unit I built 2. I can use them side by side or alone. ..

I think I see by a saw mark in the base, that Sam has already started the process of parting his split bench into two separate units :)