Sanding and finishing saw totes

[David Kuzdrall]

I am still in the planning stages of my first saw build (but getting close), the design is done, lumber selected and milled and I am getting ready to start cutting.

When I get to the final sanding and finishing of the tote, what are the best options? I typically stop sanding my furniture projects at 150 or 220, will this be appropriate here as well (I am using walnut for the tote)? Also, what are some good finish options for a walnut tote?

Thanks.

[Jim Koepke]

When I get to the final sanding and finishing of the tote, what are the best options?

Me thinks all the options are likely opinions. Mine being influenced by love of the feel of raw wood. Sand to 400 or 600, maybe a little wax and mineral oil and leave it at that.

Other than that, if something was to be finished it would likely be with something already in the shop, BLO to Tung oil, a blend, not the real thing.

jtk

[don wilwol]

Me thinks all the options are likely opinions. Mine being influenced by love of the feel of raw wood. Sand to 400 or 600, maybe a little wax and mineral oil and leave it at that.

Other than that, if something was to be finished it would likely be with something already in the shop, BLO to Tung oil, a blend, not the real thing.

jtk

I Agee, sometimes I take my totes all the way to 2000.

[Mike Allen1010]

Hi David,

I don't usually stand much beyond 220 grit unless it's in an especially hard tropical woods.

My typical finish for domestic hardwoods totes is an oil varnish blend (I use Watco, but you could use any of the commercially available products) and then pad on a couple coats of Amber shellac, followed by paste wax.

For me, this is an attractive, durable finish that feels good in the hand and can be easily repaired when you get the inevitable dings etc.

Good luck with the build -I look forward to seeing some pictures.

All the best, Mike






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[David Weaver]

The shape of the tote is a lot more important than the final grit of sandpaper. I think most of the endgrain on my handles were done at 220 or 320 grit, and I probably burnished everything after I was done.

Take a look at george's handles on the FAQs up in the announcements, and don't be afraid to indulge yourself leaving sharp lines where the handle transitions from curved to flat, even if not on your first handle. If they are done the way george shows them, they aren't lines that you feel in your hand because the angle is so obtuse.

[Jim Paulson]

Nice work Mike. I agree that 220 or 320 grit is usually sufficient and it's my choice before adding the finish.

[David Kuzdrall]

Mike, those saws are beautiful.

it looks like the process and materials are not too far off from my usual finishing routine. I typically use some combination of BLO, Pratt and lambert no. 38 and mineral spirits for wiping...I think I will start with a long oil mix of these three when I get to the finishing stage.

thanks for the replies.