Conservator's wax or Renaissance wax?

[Peter Pedisich]

Hi, are these sort of the same thing but different brands? Conservator's wax from Lee-Valley, or Renaissance was from Woodcraft among others. Primary uses are plane/saw care, and final finish over shellac. -thanks!

[Winton Applegate]

I think the reason people aren't yelping to answer is this was just addressed a week or so ago. I got my strength up so what the heck. I think the general consenses is there is no reason to put anything over new shellac. Just do the final spiriting off if French polish or maybe a bit of a sand and a rub out if brushed and call it done. Wash with mild soap and water (nothing with amonia or harsh stuff like that).
On older furniture wax makes it look good for a very short while but does nothing to protect the surface.
I have used only the Renaissance wax and like it for the tool surfaces. Expensive but goes a very long way.

There are less expensive sources of wax for your tools. One is candle wax and someone said the best way to go is get canning wax for canning fruits and vegtables in jars.
The Renaissance paste wax in the can is very convienent and ready to go. If you want to make your own semi liquide paste wax from the canning wax just use a cheese grater and make a pile of wax shavings. Put in a jar and add some paint thinner (not laquer thinner). Let it sit a few days stiring it up and you got paste wax.

[Peter Pedisich]

Winton, thanks, guess I should have done a search first!

[David Barnett]

Hi, are these sort of the same thing but different brands? Conservator's wax from Lee-Valley, or Renaissance was from Woodcraft among others. Primary uses are plane/saw care, and final finish over shellac. -thanks!

Renaissance Wax is a brand based on conservation wax mixtures developed by the British Museum in the 1950s. The formula is fairly straightforward; BASF's "Wax A", a polyethylene microcrystalline wax, Cosmolloid 80 H (http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/product_specific.cfm?ClientID=15&ProductID=23426), a non-polyethylene microcrystalline wax, and a hydrocarbon solvent with a high flash point (type-3 white spirits). Some document restorers and other conservators may prefer polyethylene-free mixtures which are more easily cleaned, removed or reversed, but inclusion of polyethylene won't adversely affect tools and finishes for woodworking. While each brand is likely to have its own tweaks and differences, any brand based on pH neutral microcrystalline waxes, whether poly or sans, should be suitable.

I mix my own variants, preferring harder versions for metals and stones, softer for certain leathers, vellums or parchments. For library, museum and other restoration and conservational uses, paying more for Renaissance brand may make sense, but for day-to-day woodworking and tool care, cheaper is absolutely fine, so buy the Lee Valley. Either way, the stuff lasts so long and goes so far even the high-priced spread amortizes as thinly as it coats.

[Peter Pedisich]

David,

Many thanks for the detailed explanation, it was interesting and helpful and clear and concise.

Pete

[Winton Applegate]

I like your Avatar photo of the saw. I would like to get some vintage tools, saws and brace etc. Then I could be on my way to being a cool guy too.
I bought new stuff because they were available and quick to get. I have my Dad's old panel saw, about fifty or sixty years old and in perfect shape (well a few rust spots now that I have pulled it down off the wall). It is a Diston Countryside C-1
"Diston Has The Edge" it says. Honey blond handle. I don't see a date.
Rip; so I guess C-1 doesn't stand for cross cut.
Thanks for saying thanks.

[Peter Pedisich]

I like your Avatar photo of the saw. I would like to get some vintage tools, saws and brace etc. Then I could be on my way to being a cool guy too.
I bought new stuff because they were available and quick to get. I have my Dad's old panel saw, about fifty or sixty years old and in perfect shape (well a few rust spots now that I have pulled it down off the wall). It is a Diston Countryside C-1
"Diston Has The Edge" it says. Honey blond handle. I don't see a date.
Rip; so I guess C-1 doesn't stand for cross cut.
Thanks for saying thanks.

Winton, I almost bought a Disston Countrywide saw on ebay a year or two ago, couldn't follow the upward price spiral... it was small as well if I remember correctly 16" or 18". As to the name, D8 must be for Disston standard line, K-1 for Keystone lower line, and C-1 for Countryside...but where were they positioned in the Disston product line? I don't know. Maybe they were marketed to rural/homestead/farm use? is it built more robustly than a standard saw?

[David Barnett]

Many thanks for the detailed explanation, it was interesting and helpful and clear and concise.

You're welcome, Pete. While I originally stuck to the two products about which you asked, it might be worth noting that Lee Valley also carries ProtecTool (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70854&cat=1,43456), another microcrystalline protectant specifically formulated with corrosion inhibitors for tools. ProtecTool spreads nicely on hand tools, stationary tool beds, tops, ways, fences and so on, but like Renaissance Wax, is pricier than Conservator's Wax and not nearly so multipurpose as either RW or CW.

ProtecTool air hardens so one should let it dry awhile before wiping it off or buffing (CW can also be left to dry before polishing), unlike RW, which should be wiped off immediately. Slower setup time is less likely to leave unattractive visual effects—swirls, blotching, white film—unwanted by gallerists, curators and collectors, but hardly a concern in working wood or metal shops.

Shield Technology (http://shieldtechnology.co.uk/), the U.K. company who makes ProtecTool, also makes a highly effective volatile corrosion inhibitor, ToolGuard VCI (http://shieldtechnology.co.uk/toolguardfaq.html), designed for tool boxes, chests and cabinets. As I live less than 100 yards from Gulf salt water, I am especially careful to protect woodworking and metalworking tools and these little pots combined with microcrystalline waxes and dehumidifying climate control keep my tools and equipment entirely rust free.

I keep stacks of these VCI jars on hand (you can buy 10-packs in the U.K.), which sealed last indefinitely, then give protection for up to a year after opening. I change mine about every six months for cabinets and drawers that get frequent traffic (hammers & stakes, machinist's and jewelry making tools, woodworking & carving tools) and less so for lower traffic drawers, chests, cabinets and storage closets (up to three opened pots at a time).

Of the five listed North American stockists for Shield products—Lee Valley, TFWW, Woodcraft and Aircraft Spruce (USA and Canada)—only AS carries ToolGuard VCI (http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/topages/toolguard.php?clickkey=51589), so far as I can tell, which somewhat puzzles me as I should think woodworkers would readily take to this product. One may, of course, purchase from U.K. sellers (http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Shield_Technology_ToolGuard_VCI.html) and on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOOLGUARD-VCI-Volatile-Corrosion-Inhibitor-Emitters-Pack-3-/350653027941?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item51a48c9665).

Back to your original query, while Conservator's Wax is fine for tool protection, Renaissance Wax is somewhat harder, buffs a little brighter and may be more pleasing to those who prefer a more silky, velvety finish than CW leaves, which is more matte. I prefer RW for jewelry and other metal objects d'art and CW for papers, unpolished stones, unglazed ceramics, natural or otherwise unfinished woods, and so on—perhaps not a big distinction but thought I'd mention it.

While pH neutral microcrystalline waxes are appropriate as a primary wood finish and as ephemeral topcoats over shellac, lacquer, oil or varnish on antique or heirloom furniture, almost any wax will do for furniture in day-to-day use. And while I mostly agree with Winton—wax looks good but doesn't offer much protection—microcrystalline waxes do afford enough protection from finger oils and acids that RW has found widespread popularity with knifemakers and jewelers who do shows and gallerists who allow objects to be handled.

Aside from microcrystalline waxes, for furniture I especially like hand-rubbed, solvent-free unbleached but filtered white beeswax (http://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=77&products_id=239) for its dry, muted, slightly matte appearance. Commercial paste waxes too often appear greasy to my eye, especially those rich in carnauba or candelilla, but I tend to eschew gloss in my aesthetic vocabulary.

Slow day. Brevity suffers. :)

[Prashun Patel]

I've used the Conservator's wax. Both it AND the Renwax are microcrystaline waxes. They're supposed to be less susceptible to fingerprints than other waxes.

For tool protection, this is not an issue, and I don't believe you will recognize a benefit vs 'normal' paste waxes.

Some people have had the opinion that Renwax is superior to the Conservator's wax in finish, but I cannot verify that.

While a shellac finish may be spirited to a high gloss, an alternate method that DOES work is to polish with fine abrasives and then use a paste wax as a final polish.

[Mel Fulks]

I use the vci cups because unlike some of the other vehicles like sponge type,as long as the cup will rattle there is product in it and it still works. I have one in a chest that I bought in 2001.

[David Barnett]

I use the vci cups because unlike some of the other vehicles like sponge type,as long as the cup will rattle there is product in it and it still works. I have one in a chest that I bought in 2001.

I don't pitch mine, either, after they've done six months to a year in my main tool and storage areas but rotate them to less critical venues, such as knife drawers, yard care, automotive, general maintenance, metals storage and kiln & forge areas. They don't go dead all at once—right.

[Jim Belair]

I use the vci cups because unlike some of the other vehicles like sponge type,as long as the cup will rattle there is product in it and it still works. I have one in a chest that I bought in 2001.

So it's a solid in the cups that gets completely consumed?

(Sorry for extending the thread derail....)

[David Barnett]

So it's a solid in the cups that gets completely consumed?

No, it's an absorbent pad soaked with the VCI solution, but the pad shrinks with age. From a seller's description (http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Shield_Technology_ToolGuard_VCI.html):

"Each Shield Technology ToolGuard VCI pot contains an absorbent pad that is literally soaked in the stuff. Once the lid is removed the vapour is released very slowly, providing up to 12 months corrosion protection in a volume up to 2 cubic feet."

[Mel Fulks]

I just opened the one I mentioned in the chest. It is Bullfrog brand in what looks like a coffee cream cup. I don't see any sign of a sponge,there is a clump that I take to be chemical .Certainly does not look like stuff in the sponge looking emitters and it has always rattled. I think it was rated at 11 cubic feet and is definitely still working.It is possible that it is not all chemical and that some material has deteriorated.

[David Barnett]

I think it was rated at 11 cubic feet and is definitely still working.It is possible that it is not all chemical and that some material has deteriorated.

Definitely more coverage than the ToolGuard VCI, then. Sounds like it really worked. I've not tried the Bull Frog emitters (http://www.bull-frog.com/).

[Mel Fulks]

Glad to see this subject brought up. The emitters have never really caught on the way I thought they would. I think many assume they are just a desiccant . First saw them 12 to 14 years ago on HGTV coverage of a new products show. Tried to buy some but no one knew what I was talking about.Finally saw them in the Klingspor home shop catalog.

[David Barnett]

Glad to see this subject brought up. The emitters have never really caught on the way I thought they would. I think many assume they are just a desiccant.

VCI technology is totally worthwhile, considering what decent carving gouges, planes, hammers, stakes, forming blocks and swages cost. You're probably right about mistaking them for dessicants or other absorption products, such as 3M carbon hydrogen sulfide absorption strips for sterling silver.

I notice where the Bull Frog website (http://www.bull-frog.com/products/#emitters) conservatively rates emitter cup coverage at up to 5 cubic feet for one year, compared to this Amazon seller (http://www.amazon.com/Bull-Frog-Rust-Blocker-Emitter/dp/B00069IBAQ) who claims 11 cubic feet. I intend to try a couple of these in a roomier closet where I'd prefer to keep bulkier equipment such as pattern rollers for my rolling mill, larger stakes, necklace mandrels and so on. It'd be nice not to have to wipe cosmoline on or off when I suddenly have the urge to use them.

[Peter Pedisich]

This thread has been very timely and informative for me, thanks to all for the input. I use the vci cups from Lee-Valley, and they do indeed work as described in my tool chest.

[David Barnett]

This thread has been very timely and informative for me, thanks to all for the input. I use the vci cups from Lee-Valley, and they do indeed work as described in my tool chest.

Informative for me, too, Pete—thanks!

I knew Lee Valley carried CI liners (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=68931&cat=1,43456) and bags (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=58755&cat=1,43326) but didn't realize they also sold VCI emitters (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59367&cat=1,43456) before your post and until I searched other keywords—I'd only looked for other Shield Technology products. Turns out Bull Frog (http://www.bull-frog.com/products/) is a registered trademark of Cortec Corporation (http://www.cortecvci.com/Products/single.php?code=10197), makers of vapor phase ordnance protectants. Also, it resolved the discrepancy of 5 cu ft vs. 11 cu ft coverage, as I now know the cups come in two sizes.

I'm giving these a try and will use my remaining ToolGuard VCI pots for smaller spaces, such as my Kennedy machinist's chests and jeweler's bench drawers, and the LV cups for larger cabinets. One just never knows where such threads will extemporaneously peregrinate.

[lowell holmes]

I just ordered some Renaissance wax.

Where can I find a recipe for it's use on new woodworking.

[Winton Applegate]

. . . well first you get a particle accelerator, not one of the big ones like at Cern (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CERN#Large_Hadron_Collider), one of the old small ones will do . . .'
Then hunt down a three legged chicken, the white ones work best but any one will do if you don't mind standing on one leg while you chant
This is only on Thursdays of course . . .
come on . . . just having fun.

Seriously now
very seriously
1. Take a soft cotton cloth (can get them in bags for applying finish or a baby wash cloth is really nice).
2. Dab the cloth on the wax.
3. Rub a light coat all over the surface of the furniture.
4. Take another larger soft cloth and wipe off all you can.
5. Stand back and admire your furniture.

Realistically, again seriously now, you have accomplished nothing.
On older furniture that has lots of micro fine scratches from years of wiping and using the surface the wax will improve the look of the surface by filling in these micro scratches and make the surface look similar to the way it did when it was new.
But
You ask about New furniture.
Which already looks new.
No reason to wax it.
Maybe polish it with some super mildly abrasive rubbing compound to even out the gloss yes.
If you even want gloss. Many prefer the look of semi gloss. That is achieved with 0000 steel wool.

Wax on New gloss furniture ?
No.

[lowell holmes]

Winton,

Thanks for responding. I was under the impression that there was some finish on new wood that used the wax. I've read before and never knew what it is. I did buy it for an existing dining room table, so I haven't wasted money. I prefer a semi gloss rubbed finish. I've used shellac as a first coat and then go to Deft Danish oil for a hard finish. I control the amount of gloss by the number of coats I put on.
I bet it does a better job on taking water glass rings than mayonnaise.

It probably is better than my old standby, Johnson's wax. Normally, I don't put wax on new finishes.

[Mel Fulks]

David, good to see you back; and I hope,restored to health.

[Winton Applegate]

Normally, I don't put wax on new finishes.

there was some finish on new wood that used the wax.

OK, sorry I jumped to conclussions.
Nope I don't recall seeing that one.
There is Maloof finish that is one third BEE's wax.
It wouldn't have been that one that you are thinking of would it ?

But man . . . if I am understanding you right . . . it would be tough to dump a whole can of Renaissance into a jar of finish . . . that could get expensive fast.

Or was it just a couple of table spoons in a jar of other finish or . . .
?

[Winton Applegate]

Mel,
Check the date on David's post (2013)

[Winton Applegate]

Lowell,
Maybe the turner's forum was where you saw the recipe.
I was searching and ran across this (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?153462-Is-renaissance-wax/page2).

[lowell holmes]

Winton,

It probably was the Maloof finish that had me confused. I'm not a turner, so it wouldn't be fresh in my mind.

Thanks for responding. I think I will go rub the water glass rings off of the table now.:)

OBTW, I saw a post from John Keeton in the string. I haven't seen any from John recently.

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks,Winton. If I had been carrying MY magnifying glass....I would have caught that.

[Winton Applegate]

magnifying glass
I find I use mine more and more.
Must be some thing changed about the quality of electricity we get now (for the lights).
The old electricity was so much better.

[Winton Applegate]

Lowell,

Maloof finish
My favorite finish (when it isn't shellac (French polished)) I go back and forth and have been known to put the FP over the Maloof. Scary huh ?

Are you all good finding the Maloof mix and or application steps ?
If not let me know and I will post that.
It real is a singularly great finish that is better than the some of it's parts.

[Mel Fulks]

Winton, I advise ( or advice) you ....its SUM

[Winton Applegate]

some SUM
ah yes T'anks
(math is a subject for which I have no business attempting to write about)

​That's part of the reason I get along with the Maloof finish so well. I only need to be able to count to three and even if I don't get the proportions that close it still works.

PS: hummmmm that must be why my spread sheet has "=SUM" in the command for addin' stuff up :D
I always wondered what that was about
I learn new stuff every day. :)