Centering an end-hole on a dowel or game piece.

[Tom Hammond]

In order to make a new game for the kids, I need to take the game pieces (look sort of like chess pawns) and put either a shallow hole (1/8" deep) or, preferably, a shallow concavity in the bottom. I'm having difficulty with coming up with a procedure that would consistently put a center hole (or concavity) in the bottom of the pieces. If a dowel, could I use the drill press fitted with a cove router bit to create a concave bottom? If a game piece, how do I stabilize it?

Also, are there any alternative to forstner bits that won't cause the ugly center-punch from the bit? I'd like the ability to make a smooth bottom... but I hate to think I'd end up routing it out. And how would I center it anyway? argh!

Thanks for any help.

[Jay Jolliffe]

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/41463-03-200.jpgThis may work If you can hold the pieces in a drill press. It's from Rockler

Marble Drill Bit (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5912)

[Brian Tymchak]

Tom, would the game pieces be of the same diameter or over-all size? If so, I might create a jig to hold the piece. The jig I'm envisioning would be a 2 piece block of wood (probably square) tall enough to hold the piece securely. The center of the 2-piece block would be hollowed out to whatever shape and size relief is necessary to securely hold the piece. Clamp the block back together with the piece in the jig. Then I assume you would have a fence or other method on your drill press to register the square securely against to allow you to set the positioning once. I've clamped wood pieces on my DP table to register pieces for repeat drilling.

As far as what bit to use, I don't have any advice. I've never chucked a router bit into a DP, but the idea of the cove bit is interesting. I wonder how it will cut at low speeds though. Would probably have to be very sharp to not tear out. Hopefully, someone will respond that has tried that.

[Mike Henderson]

If you're doing lathe work, the usual way is to drill the hole first and use that to chuck the work in your lathe. In other words, drill your hole, and use a large tail piece that will fit into your hole, and then turn the work.

Mike

[Keith Westfall]

Also, are there any alternative to forstner bits that won't cause the ugly center-punch from the bit?

How many holes do you need like this? Might be worth investing in a "cheap" bit of the same size and grind the tip off and then use it to just finish off and clean up the bottom of the hole.

[Shawn Pixley]

If you have access to a lathe (metal or wood) this is a piece of cake. Put a chuck on your tailpiece with the bit you want (the bit could be modified if necessary). Chuck the piece in some jaws on the headstock. If the lathe is aligned, voila' hole in the center of your already turned piece. If you had square / rectilinear pieces, you could use an inpendent jaw chuck. Run the lathe at slow speed.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Make a jig to hold it and look for a Connecticut Valley Tool Forstner bit. They are the original design with NO center point. I just did a quick google search, for example, and found a 3/8 inch for $28. They're superb bits so not cheap. Woodcraft used to sell them in sets though so should find some new or used.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Make a jig for the drill press and use a rotary rasp.