Shaker table from Schwarz DVD

[Tony Wilkins]

Got the DVD for father's day and watched it a few times. Finally started in earnest today, cut out my first table leg. Happy with the way it turned out. When through three ripsaws doing it. Started out with my old 26" Disston thumbhole but it was a bear to push. Went to the Wenzloff and Sons Seaton pannel saw and it was a bit easier. Finally about half was through it was either take a breather or try my ryoba. Decided on the Japanese saw and finished it up. I actually stayed closer to the line with the pull saw (as opposed to previous attempts). A lot of times during the rip I cursed not having a bandsaw but I'm glad I finished it without one. Doubly glad since today was a relatively week day on the old MS scale.

There's two take aways for me: (1) I sure could have used a traditional saw bench (next project) (2) think I'm going to send the Disston to Wisconsin for some love.

Planning on taking pictures of the leg once I get it planed up and pretty.

[Jim Koepke]

My first thought was the Disston must be dull or no set.

Of course that was before reading of the MS.

I am not a great saw sharpener, but I have improved the action of the saws I have filed.

With care and common sense applied to the project, filing a saw to me seems fairly easy.

jtk

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I'm much better at it now, but my take away from my initial attempts at saw filing was that unless you really manage to bugger up, even a poorly sharpened saw was better than a well tuned saw that has gone dull.


A saw bench was a huge boon to me in using traditional western saws. Using another method is more appropriate at times, of course.

For me, 90% of the accuracy in sawing is getting started on the right foot - even if I don't use some sort of notching trick, I often start the cut at the bench where I'm a little more comfortable beginning a cut before moving to the saw benches.

Sawing at the work bench, I find the best technique for me is to hold the stock in my leg vise. I like the leg vise because I can move the workpiece close to the screw and remove the pin if needed, and basically hold the stock all the way down the chop, eliminating vibration on the non-cut side. I then can make the cut, using both hands, standing directly behind the saw. Unless the stock is thick or beefy, I can't raise the stock super high in the vise, so I loose a lot of time moving it up in the vise, (putting the pin back in when the stock is high enough to warrant it) I suppose, but it's a method that seems to aid in accurate sawing for me. It particularly works for thinner stock that's a little tricky to hold while working on the sawbenches. If I don't want to flip the stock end for end when finishing the cut, I sometimes put it in my end vise and finish the last couple of inches below the vise.

[Tony Wilkins]

Got the two edges squared up (got the lumber surfaced on two sides). I had used both my crappy Union #5 and my old street jack. Not sure why, but I liked the ergonomics of the metal plane better - even with it's loose tote that won't tighten. Makes me even more curious about trying a good metal plane.