Cermark Suggestions

[brian fithian]

I have a Harley Davidson transmission cover that a customer wants a design on. I am pretty sure it is cast aluminum with a polished or chrome finish. My epilog is 40W. Can anyone help me out with some Speed & Power settings...i have not done a whole lot with Cermark.

[Bruce Volden]

Brian,

I have never had 100% success on "chromed" stuff. Sometimes it works out great and other times it "mostly" comes off when rinsed--mostly being about 50% and what a mess to recover from! I personally refuse that type of work anymore. I usually used my 35W TT--I doubt 5 more watts will make a difference??? My $.02 worth.

Bruce

[Doug Griffith]

I've done the trick on polished stainless steel where I've ran the job once without any Cermark. Then applied the Cermark by brush while in the machine. Let dry, then ran again. It worked well. Problem is I've never ran a control along side it to see if the extra work made any difference. The thought is that any oils, silicones, or whatnot is incinerated out of the pores of the surface thereby providing better adhesion of the coating. Could be voodoo science.

[Richard Rumancik]

I marked a chrome award once and although I got it to work, it left a stain of Cermark where I had airbrushed it. So I would suggest not to use excess Cermark, and don't leave the residual Cermark on any longer than necessary. The problem with "unknown" plating is that you can't really anticipate all the issues beforehand and you don't have much opportunity to experiment.

[Mike Null]

If it's a genuine HD part you shouldn't have any trouble. If it's from China forget it.

[Bill Cunningham]

I've done lots of chrome gas caps etc.. but like Mike said, if it's from china expect the unexpected..I always tell my customers that Chinese materials (Chinesium) does not always work, or result in a perm. mark.. The risk is ALL theirs.