Blade for Stanley Router handplane No 71 1/2

[Don Morris]

I inherited several handplanes from my Swedish Cabinet maker father-in-law. They're very precious to me and I've restored several of them to the best of my ability and use them whenever I see the opportunity. One of them I haven't been able to use is a Stanley No 71 1/2. It looks like the Stanley 71 Type 1 in the Stanley Tools pocket guide. It also says: Pat'D and the date: 10-29-01. I haven't been able to use it because it is missing the blade. Not being a full time Neander, I need help in guiding me where to look for one.

There are two manufactured holes in the body of the tool, about the size for a #8 screw and 1" towards the middle of the tool from the wood handles. On the new Lie Nielsen that is where a fence is attached. There is no corresponding groove on the face side of the 71 1/2 as on the new Lie Nielsen router tool to help stabilize a fence. However, is that what the two holes are for? I've looked on eBay at the several for offer there, and am still not sure what the holes are for. If not for a fence, please clarify. Thanks for any assistance.

Don M

[Kurt Cady]

The two holes are there to screw a piece of wood to the bottom, thus closing the throat ( the big open hump at the front of the tool)

[Dave Parkis]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the fence, but the older model Stanley 71's and 71 1/2's didn't have a fence. If there is a groove in the bottom of the one you have, it can accommodate a fence (although I don't know of anyone who actually uses it). As for the cutter, you can get a replacement from Lee Valley or you can post a WTB (Want To Buy) in the trade and swap forum.

[Bill Houghton]

+1 on the Lee Valley blades. I've been told that you have to flip the adjusting nut over to accommodate them. Do you still have the blade clamp?

The 71-1/2 didn't have the adjustable fence until about 1938 (same as the 71), a little more than 50 years into their production and just ten years before Stanley stopped making them. You can find some information to help you place the date for your router plane here: http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/routers/stanley/stanley_71.5.html

It's funny - Stanley dropped the 71-1/2 years before they stopped making the 71, but in many ways, it's a better tool than the 71. Certainly, Lee Valley thought so, as their router plane is inspired by the 71-1/2; and Lie-Nielsen, the other modern maker of quality router planes, has had to add a 71-1/2-style router plane in response to customer requests.

[Joe Bailey]

the holes just inboard of the handles are to allow for the attachment of a board to effectively increase the area of the sole. If the sole, is too narrow to bridge the area to be routed, (while registering on that part of the workpiece not to be removed) the larger, screwed-on base must be used. bear in mind that anything attached effectively reduces the maximum usable depth of the tool.

[Mark Dorman]

There is a blade here; not sure if its the one you need. http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/roplcu.html

[Jim Koepke]

There is a blade here; not sure if its the one you need. http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/roplcu.html

Looking at the link, it says the part has been moved and offers the new link. The page that comes up says it is no longer available.

The router it is for may be the 271 that is a small router plane without an adjusting mechanism.

If you have the patience, others have made blades by grinding an allen wrench.

Or Try Lee Valley's blades. They work on my Sargent router plane.

jtk

[Don Morris]

Hmmm, grinding an Allen wrench sounds like fun. I've got to try it. I'll also look at LV. There is no open hump on the front of the tool. It's a "closed" type, absolutely flat across the front. I think I prefer this to the open type where vision is given priority. Thanks for the assist people, Sawmillcreekers are great. Brag about this site to friends.

[Don Morris]

Afterthought...since some have ground Allen wrenches to conform to the shape needed, would it be possible to adapt the Lie Nielsen large router blade by grinding? I only ask out of curiosity because that sucker is expensive. But if that would truly give the best result, because that is good metal, I'd have to give it some thought.

Don M

[Dave Parkis]

Don, the Lee Valley cutters are $14.50 and are available in a bunch of different sizes. They are also offering free shipping right now on orders over $40. If you got 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" you'd be in very good shape and the cost wouldn't be that bad. They also offer metric sizes if that works better for you.

[Jim Koepke]

would it be possible to adapt the Lie Nielsen large router blade by grinding?

If my memory serves the LN blades have the square shank rotated 45º compared to the Stanley blades. This would cause it to not seat in a Stanley router plane.

jtk

[Richard Line]

I seem to recall reading somewhere (on smc?) that the LV blades fit the Stanley without modification. Give LV's customer service a call and ask. I've put the LV blades into a couple of home built bodies and they work great.

[Richard Krushner]

Don, have a look at the video link below for using the Veritas router blade. I am not clear how well this matches up to your plane? From the the patent date and the holes it seems the earliest that it could be is a type three.


http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=Q_c2LJl-Q64&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DQ_c2LJl-Q64


A website called Oldtools, in the UK, sells the straight and pointed cutters. However I am not sure whether they will ship to the US


This should help if you choose to make your own:


http://www.shakerovalbox.com/finished/$5Router.pdf

[Jim Koepke]

I seem to recall reading somewhere (on smc?) that the LV blades fit the Stanley without modification. Give LV's customer service a call and ask. I've put the LV blades into a couple of home built bodies and they work great.

The shank is longer, so as Derek said, flipping of the adjuster nut should take care of this.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I have the Lee Valley router plane blades on my stanley router plane. There is no problem using them on the stanley plane.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

My first thought would be to replace the stud the adjuster threads onto with one that was longer, but it's probably some odd, hard to source thread pitch similar to other stanley parts, isn't it? Either way, flipping the nut is easier, and it really only impacts you at the shallowest depths.

[Sam Takeuchi]

I have a Record No.71 (exact Stanley copy down to thread size) and I use Veritas router plane blades. Only thing that needed to be done as to flip the depth adjuster wheel upside down. So if you just need blades, get it there. No need to complicate things.

[Don Morris]

Blades are ordered. Thanks again people!