Question about crosscut sled and TS fence

[David Huston]

I have never used a crosscut sled but plan on using one this weekend to cut some shelves for a project I am building. I have read to NEVER use the TS fence with the crosscut sled, but I happened to be watching a kreg project video and the guy doing it used the sled and the fence! So is it safe or not? I would like to use the fence so i can get quick repeatable cuts for the shelves. Please advise.

Thank you

Here is a link to the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=RVqCCAzk_VY

[Art Mann]

I would not use my sled with the rip fence in the way he is using his. You could get into trouble and if the cut piece binds or gets a little skewed. Instead, I installed a T-track along the width of the sled fence face that will accommodate a stop block when doing repeat cuts.

[Val Kosmider]

I would think it is LESS UNSAFE because the material is held quite square to the blade by the sled,. However, you are still jamming a board between the fence, the sled, and the blade. In the event of binding, there is no place for anything to go and it could get pretty wild. Not my personal experience; simply a logical guess. You wouldn't do it with a miter gauge, why would you do it with a sled? More 'squareness' to support the work?

[John TenEyck]

I don't see it as any different than attaching a stop block to the crosscut sled itself, it's just a different way of doing the same thing. The only problem I can see with it is if the fence toes inward at all.

John

[bobby milam]

I'd rather clamp a block to the fence to set the measurement to then push it through using only the sled to make the cut. Like John said, if the fence toed in it could cause a problem. I kept watching him make the first cut to the board on the left side of the blade and watching the loose shirt sleeve dangle near the blade and waiting for a different kind of accident to happen. Not everyone putting videos up are doing it the safest way. It sounds like you have concerns and I agree with you. I'd do it how you feel comfortable with. I personally think you are on the right path in questioning his proceedure.

[Prashun Patel]

I usually use stop blocks, and haven't had an issue. However, if you are going to use the ts fence, then you might do well to add two safety precautions:

1) Toggle clamps to secure the piece to the cross cut fence
2) Instead of butting the piece to the fence, clamp a spacer block onto the fence, such that once the shelf is locked down and pushed through the cut, it clears the stationary stop and leaves no chance of binding between the blade and fence.

[David Huston]

Thanks for all the replies. I think it is questionable at best. Any movement of that board and it is trouble. I will probably clamp a stop block to the fence. There is a T track in the sled for a stop block put the pieces i need to cut are longer than the sled so I need to use the fence.

[Jay Jolliffe]

I use the sled & fence all the time if I have to do repetitive accurate cuts. Say... making the rails to cabinet doors. No different than using a stop block. Never had a problem. I also use it in the same way to size my cabinet sides. I do have to say after thinking about what I wrote this is not a safe practice on wide pieces. Too easy for a kick back.

[Aleks Hunter]

I'll second the clamping a stop block approach. Don't want to pinch the board and find out what it feels like colliding with your body at 30 mph or so. Personally, I'd use a RAS or miter saw, or circ saw with a speed square for cutting boards to length. If you only have a TS and like the sled, put a couple of cam clamps to hold the workpiece in place.

[Joe Scharle]

You'll make a lot of sleds in your woodworking lifetime, so don't make one like furniture; just make it work for you. Here's a pic of one I built just to square the table top you see on it's top. I prefer leading edge fences that are only bolted. Each time I need to use this one, I have to square the fence...that's a good thing, because wood moves and big wood moves a lot. The holes give me a place to grab and the toggle clamps are self-explanatory. Since this is a big sled with a single miter bar, the bar is a Incra adjustable. Also, I'd never let a crosscut ride the fence although one of my trim men never used a miter gauge or a mounted rip fence. He just eyeballed it! Stop blocks mounted to the sleds are safe as they travel with the work and are moving relative to the work. Anyway, since I never know how much or how little a stranger wants to hear, I'll stop and here's a pic.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/194/Fly_Leaf_Table_3_1.JPG

[Garth Almgren]

2) Instead of butting the piece to the fence, clamp a spacer block onto the fence, such that once the shelf is locked down and pushed through the cut, it clears the stationary stop and leaves no chance of binding between the blade and fence.

This was my first thought, if you're going to use the fence at all.

[Greg Peterson]

Fence and cross cut sled are mutually exclusive in my shop. Should I need to make repetitive cuts of the same length, I clamp a small block onto the fence or table top. The block is usually about an inch wide so by the time the board is coming in contact with the blade, it is clear of the stop block.

Using the fence for a croscut, with or without a crosscut sled, gives me the willies. To each his own.

[Duane Meadows]

The difference between using the fence and using a stop block attached to the sled is, with the fence the workpiece is sliding against the fence(friction no matter how little!), where with the stop block the sled, workpiece and stop block are all moving as one unit! Just my humble opinion!

[Lee Schierer]

This was my first thought, if you're going to use the fence at all.

Just make sure your stop block is short enough so that the piece being cut clears the end of it before the teeth engage the piece to be cut.