Question: Trimming a Router Table

[Adam Kaufman]

I'm on the last few bits in building my router table and have a question about the oak trim on the top.

The top is two pieces of MDF with HP laminate. I want to trim the outside edge with oak and am trying to figure out the best way to attach it so that it's perfectly flush with the top. I was going to use biscuits, but I know there's quite a bit of variance with my tool and technique. I also thought about just gluing and clamping or gluing and shooting some brads/finish nails and filling holes later.

Originally, I was going to let the oak sit proud of the top and use my router with a flush trim bit horizontally, but I figured that with only 1-3/8" of surface, I'd never be able to hold the router straight.

I could also screw it to the MDF and fill the holes with plugs. I think I'd like the look of the plugs, but I don't know how flush I could get it.

I guess I could do it any old way and sand the oak down till it's flush, but I don't want to bugger the laminate with scratches.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Adam,

I just completed my version of Norm Abrams Deluxe Router Station. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?204225-My-verision-of-Norm-Abram-s-Deluxe-Router-Station&highlight

I used doubled, screwed and glued 3/4" MDF for the top.

Initially I made the top oversize in both planes and trimmed it final size on the table saw. Then I trimmed it out with white oak. I didnt' use biscuits but used glue and finish nails from a finish nailer. I jointed one edge of the white oak trim and planed it down to the same thickness of the table top. I aligned the top surfaces and mitered the corners.

I laminated the top with white formica while the top was still rectangular. Then I bisected the angle at each corner and drew a radius. Using my belt sander, I rounded the corners and relieved/exposed the edge use a chamfer bit in a hand held router. If you look close to the first photo you can see the results. The photos were taken on my cell phone as my wife had the 3 other cameras packed for a vacation trip we are taking currently.

[Joe Scharle]

I like to use veneer and contact cement on these projects, especially if I'm negotiating radius corners. Trim the overhang with a block plane and sand smooth. If you really want to employ a router, clamp a sandwich of boards to provide a larger surface for the base. Just stand all of the pieces on a table, clamp, turn-over and rout away. Radius corners will be a challenge though.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I think that I used a flush trim bit to trim the oak to be even with the table.....

[Mark Kornell]

I set my trim to be slightly proud and then flush trimmed it to the laminate. In hindsight, I'd probably just use a hand plane. Remember that it is a router table and doesn't need to be perfect. After a couple of projects it should be showing signs of use!

[Joe Kieve]

If you haven't already glued the laminate top down, I'd attach the oak trim with glue and brads. Then let the laminate top go over the top edge of the trim...easier to trim, will help hold trim in place, less chance of splinters.
That's the way I'd do it.

[Sam Layton]

Hi Adam,

I understand that you already have your laminate glued down, want to apply the oak trim, and want it flush with the top. If you are uneasy about using a flush trim bit on a small surface, you have a couple of options.

One option would to make your oak trim wider than your top is thick. Your top is 1 3/8" thick, make the edge trim 2 3/8" thick and let it overhang the bottom. That will give you a larger surface to balance your router using a flush trim bit.

Another option would to get a scrap piece of MDF about 5" wide and the length of your router table. Lay the MDF on top of your router table top, let it over hang your top, and clamp it in place. Now, apply your trim piece of oak with glue and air nail. The overhanging MDF will make sure that you are not able to install the trim oak proud of you table top. After the glue is dry, put a small round over on the trim.

Hope this helps, Sam

[Julian Tracy]

Glue and finish nails with putty for the holes - unless you drop the table it'll hold up to just about any of the use you'll ask of it. And - you can get it near perfect flush while holding it (or clamping it just before you shoot the nails in.

JT

[Gregory King]

Adam, I find it way easier to edge band the top before applying laminate with 1/2" oak, in this case. I never use any brads, just glue it and clamp it for 30 mins. Leaving it just proud of both faces you can quickly block plane it and ROS it to finish. You can then round the corners with a belt sander. Next apply your laminate after coating both surfaces twice. The last step is to bevel the edge with a bevel bit approx. 20 degrees. This way its easy to replace the laminate down the road, plus there is no edge to catch any thing that passes over it. You can varnish or laquer the complete edge for an even better result. Greg

[Phillip Gregory]

I made an almost identical top on my Norm Abram-esque table. I used glue and finishing nails to attach mine. I applied glue to the trim, lined it up to be flush with the top, and then clamped 'er down. Then I put some finishing nails in it to keep it flush. It turned out very nicely. My dad did the "sand the trim until it's flush" bit on a cabinet and buggered up the top while sanding which is why I did not use that method.

[Prashun Patel]

If u find it hard to ride the router on the edge, clamp another board to it to create a wider bearing surface. Not hard to do.

[Thomas Canfield]

Are we building a router table for work or a piece of furniture to take in the living room? As long as the band is close and not proud, it should work well and look good in the shop. I used biscuits on a similar job and had to do some routing/sanding to get the trim down to surface. Nailing/glue with a stop board to prevent going proud would seem the easiest.