Designing a Router Table; Dimensions?

[Wayne Crider]

I've been gathering supplies for my table and should be starting work this week on a table top design I drew out to be used on saw horses. A stumbling block I'm having is how far into the table to center my insert which essentially figures how long to make my T-slot track for the fence movement. My table will be 36" wide (fence is that long) and 24" deep. I know it's a little big based on what I have seen for a portable design, but I want the sawhorses far enough apart to step up to the table without tripping over the legs. I'm also setting it up for a horizontal mortising sled and additional horizontal router placement on the back that I caught a design for in a "New Best of Fine Woodworking" book on working with routers. My first job is some simple mortise and tendon doors with flat panels for garage shelves for a customer, and then a 2 door Armoire for me which I'm going to design to break down. I expect to make raised panels for the Armoire.

[Rick Potter]

I have one like yours that I made for when I need an additional table. I made it 30" wide, 19 1/2" deep, and the center of the bit is 12" in from the front edge. My sawhorses are longer than the RT is deep, but I just used cleats under the table so I can adjust it in and out on the horses, so they just hang out the back, out of my way.

Rick Potter

[glenn bradley]

My 32" x 24" had the bit on center left to right and is 12-5/8" back from the front edge. I have the miter track the same distance from the bit as the tablesaw miter slot is from the blade. This allows me to get double duty from jigs like a tenon jig, coping sled and featherboards.