David A. Peterson
06-10-2013, 4:58 PM
start with a board: glue strips of wood to it. make sure they have gone through the jointer and planer so everything is flat and square with no gaps. the center board comes first, with matching boards (both width and type) glued to opposite sides of the board, let dry, then jointer the outside edge, then add another two boards (on opposite sides), repeat. plan on about 3 days to do all that (watching glue dry!). I used the jointer to have a flat surface to glue against the main board, then after the glue dried, jointer the outside edge before the next (jointered) edge is glued). This way...no lose of fingertips!
264159
next step:
measure the width of the board. that is how long you cut each board, so when you are done, you have 4 perfect squares:
264160
next step: glue one board to the next (not all at once), alternating directions for each layer. if you glue it up all at once, when you clamp it, it will slide all over like "cat $hit on a moonbeam" (an old Danish expression from my grandfather) and it won't be square when you finish.
then, glue up a top and bottom layer of walnut. If my board was longer, I could have made 6 squares and would not have had to use the walnut. it just has to be a repeating number of layers. i thought it would look good with walnut on the top and bottom to highlight the walnut strips that were 1/4" wide (see above).
next: cut it round on the bandsaw then mount it on the lathe. it looks like the narrow walnut strips all are running in the same direction (below) but two are going vertical, and two are going horizontal (internally inside that big block). You will also notice that the left side has a thicker layer of walnut. I was thinking a shorty pedestal or foot. when I got to turning, it did not look right, and was 'bottom heavy' as compared to the top rim, so it became a faceplate and I cut it off about an inch down.
264161
next:
turn the outside (I stopped when the pattern looked good!)
264162
finish by sanding from 120 up to 2000 grit, gradual through all the inbetween stages. plan on about 3 hours. then, put about 3 coats of finish on it...wait for each coat to dry.
next:
hollow the inside: I drilled a hole about an inch in diameter down the middle, just until i hit walnut at the bottom. that way, i knew how far to go. then, it is just peeling the onion, about a millimeter at a time.
notice the small indent on the base: I marked it with a parting tool. it is about 1/2 way between the foot and the first stripe. I decided that the bottom walnut looked 'bottom heavy', so I decided to cut it to match the top walnut rim.
264163
the inside: all that is left is the sanding:
264164
and...then i had to part it off the bottom, sand it (slightly concave so it does not get 'tippy' and then take it through the sandpaper layers. AND.....the reveal!
The wood used is walnut, cherry, flame box elder, and spalted maple.
264165
Dave Peterson (new guy here! - my second post!)
264159
next step:
measure the width of the board. that is how long you cut each board, so when you are done, you have 4 perfect squares:
264160
next step: glue one board to the next (not all at once), alternating directions for each layer. if you glue it up all at once, when you clamp it, it will slide all over like "cat $hit on a moonbeam" (an old Danish expression from my grandfather) and it won't be square when you finish.
then, glue up a top and bottom layer of walnut. If my board was longer, I could have made 6 squares and would not have had to use the walnut. it just has to be a repeating number of layers. i thought it would look good with walnut on the top and bottom to highlight the walnut strips that were 1/4" wide (see above).
next: cut it round on the bandsaw then mount it on the lathe. it looks like the narrow walnut strips all are running in the same direction (below) but two are going vertical, and two are going horizontal (internally inside that big block). You will also notice that the left side has a thicker layer of walnut. I was thinking a shorty pedestal or foot. when I got to turning, it did not look right, and was 'bottom heavy' as compared to the top rim, so it became a faceplate and I cut it off about an inch down.
264161
next:
turn the outside (I stopped when the pattern looked good!)
264162
finish by sanding from 120 up to 2000 grit, gradual through all the inbetween stages. plan on about 3 hours. then, put about 3 coats of finish on it...wait for each coat to dry.
next:
hollow the inside: I drilled a hole about an inch in diameter down the middle, just until i hit walnut at the bottom. that way, i knew how far to go. then, it is just peeling the onion, about a millimeter at a time.
notice the small indent on the base: I marked it with a parting tool. it is about 1/2 way between the foot and the first stripe. I decided that the bottom walnut looked 'bottom heavy', so I decided to cut it to match the top walnut rim.
264163
the inside: all that is left is the sanding:
264164
and...then i had to part it off the bottom, sand it (slightly concave so it does not get 'tippy' and then take it through the sandpaper layers. AND.....the reveal!
The wood used is walnut, cherry, flame box elder, and spalted maple.
264165
Dave Peterson (new guy here! - my second post!)