MF Langdon 74-C Parts?

[Russ Webb]

I am restoring a Millers Falls Langdon Acme 74-C miter box but am stymied by lack of a part. The box is missing the elevator on the rear post.

Anyone have or know of a source for Langdon parts?

Thanks.

[Mike Holbrook]

Fortunately mine has all the parts. I have had the same problem with other old hand tools though. I have three Stanley/North Bros. 1530/1530A drills. It took that many to get one that was operational. After a few months of soaking parts I ended up with two operational drills.

[Jim Matthews]

Elevator?

Is that L-section piece that slides along a set screw?
https://sites.google.com/site/langdonmitreboxes/home/parts

A photo might help...

[Mark Dorman]

Nice link Jim.
the elevator is the spring loaded stop that holds the saw elevated.

[Russ Webb]

The elevator is an assembly that screws into the housing through which the posts holding the saw slide up and down. The elevator locks the posts in the up position keeping the saw off the stock as you arrange it in preparation for a cut. 264110

[Brad Chittim]

Russ, did you ever find that elevator assembly? I recently picked up a pristine-looking Millers Falls #74C with everything...except the rear elevator assembly. Isn't it odd that both of us have ones that lack the same part in the same location? I'm wondering if users, in practice, removed the rear elevator assembly, choosing to elevate the front only and being able to operate the remaining elevator assembly with one hand while holding the saw handle with the other.

In any event, I too am in the hunt for an elevator assembly. Perhaps there's a broken up #74C out there that could be cannibalized for those parts. Do you know of anyone who has a reputation for having a large miterbox collection?

[Glenn Samuels]

Just picked up a 74 C today in South Carolina and am also looking for a saw stop and matching screw. There is one for the rear saw guide but the front one is missing. Has anyone had success finding one?

http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/pdf/MFLA_MiterBox.pdf

[Russ Webb]

Sorry for long-delayed response. I've been consumed building a new shop.

Fellow Creeker Jim Matthews generously offered a spare he was willing to part with so I was able to complete my rehab. I have no idea if Jim has additional parts, but assume he'd have contacted you if he did as was incredibly generous and helpful to me.

Good luck with your quest!

[Tony Sade]

FYI-I've had luck getting parts for MF miter boxes, including a couple of those elevators, from Lynn Dowd. http://dowdstools.com

HTH (someone else who can't find these parts).

[Brian W Smith]

Believe it or not,we still use these boxes in our cabinet shop(certain applications)......long,boring to some stories,and not the point of post.

We also have a very nice machine shop.Let me pull one of these "assemblies" and give it a look see......can possibly make a "run" of 1/2 dz or so,on the cheap.Ya'll pay parts/postage.Will pull one today.

[Glenn Samuels]

Hi Brian,

I'd be happy to see what you can do. It seems to be a common problem. Thanks

[Jim Foster]

I need the same part. My miter box is missing the same part/assembly.

[Gary Herrmann]

I've seen parts on that auction site periodically. I'm another one lucky enough to have a complete box.

Google and you may find tool sellers with parts.

[Brian W Smith]

Glenn,I pulled two....one of Dad's(real old,prolly 1920's?),and a "newish" one from one of mine.I bought one new in the late 70's.They were both essentially the same.The only minor difference was the knurled adjuster thingy.The older one was a little nicer.Also,the finish on the older one(not patina,but surface)was a touch nicer as well.Other than that,you can screw the one out of his box into mine.

Slight detour....ya'll do know how these are intended to be used don't you?It's obviously to hold the saw up....what I'm referring to is how,when properly adjusted,all it takes is just a "wiggle" of the handle and the saw drops.

But anyway,I just jumped right in.At lunch chucked up a pce of 1/2" mild steel,turned it...threaded it...flipped it and did the other end.No big deal,24 TPI,turned to .465(don't quote that).Took it out of lathe and it screwed right into both saws.I could make prints?But just decided to chuck it up and get to turning/threading.

There's two issues that I thought about...well,maybe three.

1st> source a spring,I will mic it,and post what we need.

2nd>The outer part can be mild steel.....the inner part,may need to be of a little better grade.Drill rod?

3rd>On the outer part...one end is simply bored to 5/16"(don't quote that,I measured it,but was in a hurry....it was a std. size)...this is what the inner part slides into to.The other end of it(outer member) has,and I'm making an educated guess....what looks to be a punched,broached hole.I have a cpl ways to do this,just haven't decided.

It's really no big deal,the spring is prolly the hardest part.......and that should be rather painless?I'll make them,ya'll make a nice donation to site.If I was pricing them for E-pay....it would be in the 20$ range.Can't imagine postage to be much?I will say,other than the spring,you'll be hardpressed to tell the difference between one of ours and an original,for what that's worth?

[Jim Foster]

Brian, I realize this post is directed to Glenn, but if I can piggyback on this offer, I would appreciate it.
Glenn,I pulled two....one of Dad's(real old,prolly 1920's?),and a "newish" one from one of mine.I bought one new in the late 70's.They were both essentially the same.The only minor difference was the knurled adjuster thingy.The older one was a little nicer.Also,the finish on the older one(not patina,but surface)was a touch nicer as well.Other than that,you can screw the one out of his box into mine.

Slight detour....ya'll do know how these are intended to be used don't you?It's obviously to hold the saw up....what I'm referring to is how,when properly adjusted,all it takes is just a "wiggle" of the handle and the saw drops.

But anyway,I just jumped right in.At lunch chucked up a pce of 1/2" mild steel,turned it...threaded it...flipped it and did the other end.No big deal,24 TPI,turned to .465(don't quote that).Took it out of lathe and it screwed right into both saws.I could make prints?But just decided to chuck it up and get to turning/threading.

There's two issues that I thought about...well,maybe three.

1st> source a spring,I will mic it,and post what we need.

2nd>The outer part can be mild steel.....the inner part,may need to be of a little better grade.Drill rod?

3rd>On the outer part...one end is simply bored to 5/16"(don't quote that,I measured it,but was in a hurry....it was a std. size)...this is what the inner part slides into to.The other end of it(outer member) has,and I'm making an educated guess....what looks to be a punched,broached hole.I have a cpl ways to do this,just haven't decided.

It's really no big deal,the spring is prolly the hardest part.......and that should be rather painless?I'll make them,ya'll make a nice donation to site.If I was pricing them for E-pay....it would be in the 20$ range.Can't imagine postage to be much?I will say,other than the spring,you'll be hardpressed to tell the difference between one of ours and an original,for what that's worth?

[Glenn Samuels]

Hi Brian,

I am sending you a PM.

Thanks so much

[Glenn Samuels]

Hi Brian,

Not sure if my PM to you actually sent. Can you let me know,

Thanks

[Brian W Smith]

Oops.sorry...I got it.

Been a very interesting little job.There's 10 assemblies sitting in the shop.Have been enjoying the brain activity concerning the "D" shaped hole in the end of the outer member.Have decided to try and punch it.......being as there's not that many to do,will just use our H-frame hydraulic press.Which I still contend,that's how M-F was doing them.....we'll see.If that dosen't work.....we'll broach them.

Haven't figured out(yet) why,on the originals....the wrench flats on the outside member don't align with the flat on the inner,sliding part(as viewed from the knurled nut end).It's the chicken/egg thing.Which sort of dosen't matter,meaning they really should be "phased",irrespective of which operation comes first(wrench flats vs D hole).But none of the ones we have are.....means the factory didn't see any advantage to them being so.Which is nonsense....they really should be phased,from an end user standpoint.Curious?

Going to make a run today looking for springs.

[Brian W Smith]

Moving right along guys.Made the D shaped punch out of some O1 drill rod today at lunch.Harden'd with OA torch,quenched in some of wifey's veg. oil....tempered @400* in kitchen oven.Pulled it out,cooled,after work.....was a no-brainer punching,worked as designed.Basically confirming the factory procedure.

Struck out yesterday on springs.

[Glenn Samuels]

Hi Brian,

Don't worry about the spring. I can find someone close by to make one for me. Glad you were able to make the D punch in the rod. It sounds like you've made good progress.

[Brian W Smith]

The parts are done.Well,except no springs......I'm going to keep looking.Then,like Glenn....will probably end up making some.

Got busy in cabinet shop all of a sudden.Funny how that goes?A guy did stop by and snagged a cpl assembly's yesterday,said he would find the springs.There's 8 left.

I'll post up when the spring thing gets figured out?

[Jim Foster]

I just tried to take my good one apart to measure the spring and see if I could find a suitable spring at MSC, McMaster, etc... I could not get the assembly apart.

[Kurt Cady]

I know this thread is 2.5 years old. anyone have a source for an elevator stop part?

[Jim Van Verth]

It's been another 2.5 years so I guess it's time for another query -- anyone know of a source for elevator stops or depth stops? Vintage or newly manufactured, doesn't matter.

[Phil Mueller]

Jim, I understand the frustration. I looked for months while restoring several miter boxes. On one, I found a similar box, and offered the seller to pay for the box, but only ship me the parts I wanted. At a minimum, it saved me a considerable amount of shipping cost.

The elevator stops are a tough find without buying a complete box, or at least posts. I also don’t want to set false expectations, but a couple of elevator stops I did obtain, just don’t work well. As much adjusting, tweaking, fiddling as I can do, and they let the saw slip down with the slightest of bumps. Point is, don’t drive yourself crazy on this. On one box I use, I just hold the saw up with a spring clamp.

Good luck with the search. Enjoy the miter box.

[Jim Van Verth]

Thanks for the advice. I did get some parts in the way you described, but I'm still missing one depth stop and one elevator stop. It's good to know that the elevator stops are flaky -- maybe that's why they're always missing. And I can't seem to get the one I have screwed in, in any case, so perhaps it's best to move on. The spring clamp sounds like a good solution.

[Tom M King]

The elevator stops on mine, that I bought new in 1973 I think, have always been very sensitive. They have always held, but will drop with the slightest touch.