An exercise in my patience...

[Michael Dunn]

So I have two coats of GF gel stain on these table tops. I'm planning to spray on several coats of GF Conversion Varnish which is water based. It says right on the gallon to wait a minimum of 48 hours before spraying the water based conversion varnish over an oil based stain.

I surely don't want to rush this and obviously want the end result to be pleasing. However, I have to get moving on this.

Is it true that if I wipe my finger on the stained surface and it remains clean that its safe to spray the water based clear coat?

Also, I was told by a rep at GF on Thursday that I could to tint the Conversion Varnish with the Gel Stain. It didn't dawn on me until I tried to mix the gel stain with the conversion varnish. Oil and water repel.

I'm certain I heard the guy from GF say to tint the CV with the GS.

So I have two questions.

1. What can I tint the CV with?

2. If the surface wipes clean is it safe to clear coat? (Bearing in mind this is water over oil).

[Prashun Patel]

The binder in the gel stain needs to dry. Putting a sealer over an undried surface will inhibit the bottom coat from drying completely, and MAY compromise the top coat. That being said, if it's clean to the finger and not sticky, it's usually ok to topcoat (in my experience).

I would seal the stain in with shellac. A thin coat is all you need and it'll be topcoatable as soon as you can't smell ethanol and it feels dry (minutes to an hour).

I wouldn't tint a waterbased product with an oil based product. Why are you trying to do that anyway? If the color is not dark enough, you can apply another coat of the gel stain right on top of itself. It's like paint that way. You can also put the gel stain on in between coats of the shellac. That makes it a glaze, which gives a lot of control. Personally, I'd do it that way: gel, shellac, gel, shellac, until you get where you like it. Then shoot the top coat. If you are super time crunched, then just gel, gel, gel, shellac. Just beware that when you put more gel down on top of itself, it can lift the first layer a little if not completely dry. It doesn't mean you have to wait forever - just means you have to be careful and use a light touch - the subsequent coats are not soaked on, then wiped off, they are put on thin so that nothing needs to be wiped off. You can use a mineral spirits *lightly dampened* rag to blend in and even out.

Even though you use shellac as a sealer, it doesn't mean you can shortcut the drying of the gel too much; you need to give it at least several hours - just not days.

Last, if you're bent on tinting the top coat, you can use Transtint dyes. Given your time frame, though, I think this is asking for trouble; you'll need to experiment with the color.

[Michael Dunn]

I was going to tint the too coat due to inconsistencies in the plywood veneer. Sanding issues from the factory caused streaky-ness when staining. Even after much sanding. Detailed in another thread. I'm not planning on tinting anymore. No time to research or buy the proper materials. Not to mention, it looks pretty nice. Add to that its a restaraunt/bar in an extremely dark room. In broad daylight with all the lights on I could barely see anything in the room.

[Prashun Patel]

If you have a few hours, try the glazing.

[Michael Dunn]

Well, I'm at the in-laws digging fence post holes now. I'm just going to have to wait it out anyway. Looks like Father's Day will be spent working. Oh well. I love what I do anyhow.

[John TenEyck]

Michael, I did some experiments a couple of years ago when I wanted to apply GF's Hi Perf. Poly over an oil based stain. I made samples with the OB stain, then top coated them after 24, 48, and 72 hours. I applied 3 coats of the GF Poly over about 8 hours time. 24 hours after the last coat was applied I did a thumbnail scratch test. I could peel the finish right off under my thumbnail on the sample I had top coated after only 24 hours drying for the OB stain. The 48 and 72 hour samples were OK, but I waited 72 hours before applying the topcoat on the actual piece I was building. It, too, was to be sold and I didn't want to take a chance. In my opinion, the stain has to be dry regardless of what you put on top of it. Applying a coat of dewaxed shellac is good only if the OB stain is dry.

I did my finishing experiments while I was building the piece. I knew what my finish schedule was before I was done building. Subtle hint.

John

[Michael Dunn]

Hint taken.