ARGH!!! I hate edgebanding!!!

[markus shaffer]

I usually avoid edgebanding altogether. I hate it. I hate hot irons sitting around. I hate edgebanding. Did I mention I hate this stuff? Unfortunately, current job dictates that I have to use it. Customer wants this stuff two months ago. I didn't get the job until 2 weeks ago.. She'll take edgebanding if it means getting her stuff faster than waiting for me to build and finish face frames..

Anyway, so I keep getting this problem with the stuff tearing out (see photo).. I am using the Virutex double sided trimmer (second photo). I've changed the blades, adjusted them and cursed at them.. Cursed the whole trimmer as well.. I even kicked my saw once just to make sure everything around knows I'm getting mad.

Does anyone else know of a better trimmer than this one? Did I mention that I hate edgebanding?


-Markus

[Scott Coffelt]

Yes, small trim router with a flush cut bit.

Then sand paper the edges the rest of the way and a slight bevel.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Markus,

I have only worked with edge banding once, but I had the same problem. What I ended up doing was to wait overnight for the glue to fully dry (Does it ever). Then I trimmed it very carefully. I still ended up re-doing one peice 3 times, but at least I got it done.

I agree with you! I HATE edge banding!

[Mark Singer]

Marcus,

The trick is to go with the grain and don't try to get it all in one pass....don't squeeze the trimmer all the way....make 3 or 4 smaller passes. You can remove the bad one with a heat gun

[markus shaffer]

With the grain. Small passes.. I will work on that.. I like the router idea, but both the plywood and banding are prefinished.. Don't want to mar the finish on those if i can avoid it. Whole point was to get this mess done quick and easy. In the time it's taken me to replace all the pieces that needed replacing, I probably could have cut down a tree, milled the lumber myself, dried it, cut it to dimension and then made face frames and done it right.. I hate this stuff..

Thanks for the quick replies..

-Markus

[Byron Trantham]

Markus, I have applied hundreds of feet of the stuff, both wood and melamine. I use the same trimmer you have. I do not install the four angled blades that are supposed to "bevel back" the trim. I use 150 grit sandpaper to sand it flush. I never position the sanding block completely perpendicular; I leave it at a small angle so as to NOT scuff the adjacent surfaces. I have had some wood edge banding, oak in particular, split into the banding. It's aggravating but I simply re-apply heat remove the bad band and install a new one. Another thing I do is go back after I am finished and look for edges that are not adhered well. Again, I just re-apply heat to press them down.

Good luck.

[Bob Lang]

I think you're better off with a utility knife rather than the trimmer. I keep a sharp blade, hold the edge down with my left thumb and pull the knife along with my right hand. Watching the grain direction is important.

Also Fastcap makes a pressure sensitive edgebanding that costs more than the hotmelt, but eliminates the iron and related problems with the hot glue sliding around. It's still a pain, but you can't burn yourself.

Bob Lang

[Frank Pellow]

I HATE it too. I have never been happy with any job that I have done, so I hope to learn from this thread.

[Sam Blasco]

If you don't have an automatic machine tuned well, then the only answer for real wood edgebanding is a file, especially if you are a perfectionist, but it is an art that needs to be practiced, cut with the edge of the file, not the face. Hand trimmers, any knife, pinch trimmers, you name it, they all tear wood (even with the grain - and there are times when you have to go against it), but work well with PVC, and flush bits for a router tend to gouge and will often mark pre-finished stock unless you grease it (that's always fun to clean). Sanding will work if it is not pre-finished, but keep an old carpet remnant around and hit it frequently or the glue will just bugger up. Also, if you are good with a file, and go that route, keep a file brush handy and hit it after each edge to keep the glue at a distance.
No matter what, edgebanding is tedious at best, and if you are not ready for even an entry level hot air machine, there just is no quick and painless solution. Often scoffed at, edgebanding, when done well can expand your creativity as a woodworker, though. And if you are doing any kind of production work, is indespensible.

[jack duren]

ive done edge banding in every possible way machine or manual. a good razor knife still works best on wood veneer tape as Bob Lang mentioned. just gotta go with the grain ;) .....jack

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I've had good luck trimming close with a chisel, then using sandpaper to get the last fraction of an inch.

[Dev Emch]

Hot melt edge banding tape is horrid stuff. The only good application is for starting the woodstove.

The worst thing is when you bump a banded item with your rump and the edge catches your jeans. Next thing you have this strip of veneer blowing in the breeze. Not Good!

I have some similar concerns and I am looking into getting a set of shaper cutters for the burgess edge system. This system looks like a more reasonable way of doing edge banding and eliminates many of the issues of the past.

Have not tried it out yet as I am still chasing it down. Started looking this morning. If anyone has experience here, please pipe up. Whatcha think.

[Dino Makropoulos]

If you don't have an automatic machine tuned well, then the only answer for real wood edgebanding is a file, especially if you are a perfectionist, but it is an art that needs to be practiced, cut with the edge of the file, not the face. Hand trimmers, any knife, pinch trimmers, you name it, they all tear wood (even with the grain - and there are times when you have to go against it), .

Dino/Ditto to that.
And keep your file clean with a small wire brush.(brass)
And when you get use to,the file, is one step and faster than the knife/sandpaper combination.
File all the way. And it gives you a much better job by forming/pushing the
edge banding to the panel.
The trick here is to hold the panel flat and against two pieces of scrap.(at the right height)
And do one side at the time. That helps too.
YCF Dino

[Rob Blaustein]

Markus,
I recently posted a question related to this topic--about the Burgess router bits vs edge banding, and there were several suggestions that you might find helpful. Check out: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19781
Good luck with the project.
Rob

[Walt Pater]

Another vote for the file method here. Never tried it on pre-finished banding, though.

[Jason Thaxton]

I worked in a euro cabinet shop for a number of years and we made a jig for a trim router. Second best option is a very sharp razor blade. Those double sided edgers are junk imho.

[Les Spencer]

Has anyone tried the PlyPrep bit from Collins Tool that reviewed in the June/July 2005 issue of Wood Mag?:confused: It was their recommended bit for solid edge banding.Les

[Chris Rosenberger]

I usually avoid edgebanding altogether. I hate it. I hate hot irons sitting around. I hate edgebanding. Did I mention I hate this stuff? Unfortunately, current job dictates that I have to use it. Customer wants this stuff two months ago. I didn't get the job until 2 weeks ago.. She'll take edgebanding if it means getting her stuff faster than waiting for me to build and finish face frames..

Anyway, so I keep getting this problem with the stuff tearing out (see photo).. I am using the Virutex double sided trimmer (second photo). I've changed the blades, adjusted them and cursed at them.. Cursed the whole trimmer as well.. I even kicked my saw once just to make sure everything around knows I'm getting mad.

Does anyone else know of a better trimmer than this one? Did I mention that I hate edgebanding?


-Markus


Markus,

I had the same problem with tearout when I first started using the Virutex double sided trimmer. I tried alot of other ways to trim banding. None were as quick & easy as the Virutex. I ended up solving the tearout problem by separating the 2 halves & making 2 single sided trimmers. I can now trim each edge with the grain & do not get any tearout.

Chris

[David Klug]

I haven't had much experience with banding but I used my small 3 in stanley plane to take most of it off and used sandpaper to finish it.

DK

[mike malone]

[QUOTE=Sam Blasco]If you don't have an automatic machine tuned well, then the only answer for real wood edgebanding is a file, especially if you are a perfectionist, but it is an art that needs to be practiced, cut with the edge of the file, not the face. Hand trimmers, any knife, pinch trimmers, you name

what sam said...used a file or rasp them lightly sand
never fails

[Steven Wilson]

Markus, I have the same trimmer and the only time that you can really go to town with it is when trimming the PVC edge banding. Real wood has grain and as you've found out it likes to split along it. I'll take a few passes with the trimmer and go with the grain where the grain goes from the piece to the outside, sometimes changing direction a lot. A while back I picked up a couple of decent japaneese paring chisels and now I use those to score the backside and then use the trimmer, it tends to stop any tears. Very recently I ended up scoring a used Lamello Cantex for a fair price and now I use it for trimming (iron on edge banding, thin wood, face frames, etc).

[Steve Jenkins]

Check this out for trimming thin edgebanding.
oops I checked the link at it goes to the home page so search for
flushing chisel

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/pages_framework/frameset_stage.asp?primary=0&secondary=0&tertiary=-1

I typically don't use iron on but rather hardglue veneer. Before I remove the clamping cauls I will trim the banding with the above trimmer. with it backed up by the caul it slices right off.
When using iron on i will back up the cut with a piece of mdf held by hand a traveling along with with the trimmer.

[Mike Vermeil]

If you don't have an automatic machine tuned well, then the only answer for real wood edgebanding is a file, especially if you are a perfectionist, but it is an art that needs to be practiced, cut with the edge of the file, not the face.

Sam, I can't picture this at all. How do you cut the banding with the edge of a file? Can you explain further?

[Chris Fite]

I must be the only one who uses a cabinet scraper. Follow the grain, and it is fast. I have had no problems with tearout. Wipe the clogged glue from the scraper with a cloth.

[Chris Padilla]

Markus,
I recently posted a question related to this topic--about the Burgess router bits vs edge banding, and there were several suggestions that you might find helpful. Check out: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19781
Good luck with the project.
Rob

Good thread, there, Rob. I have the Burgess Edge system as well and like it quite a bit but Mr. Becker makes some excellent points. If your plywood varies, the BE system will not work too well for you.

One tip that works for me with the BE systems is to futz with the bits (yes, you need to futz with them...annoying at times but worth it in the end) and leave the veneer thickness. This will give you an invisible line.

Another thing, for round edges, the BE system excels. It self-centers itself within the groove and is therefore very easy to clamp up.

[Rick Lizek]

I've done it all possible ways over the last 30 years and the simplest way for straight panels is set up a pattern and or sacrificial fence on your table saw. Raise the pattern fence up maybe 1/16" and set the saw blade to cut flush with the fence. Panels are run with the banding down on the table and it's pretty much as fast as you push them through they are done. Obviously it's a pass for each side and minor adjustements should be made where appropriate. Zero clearance throat plate of course. A shorter sacraficial fence works better for slightly warped panels. First time submitting a pic here so hope it works.

[Steve Cox]

I have not used the tablesaw setup but the same fence idea will work on a router table. I've used it mostly with p-lam edges so I'm not sure how it'll work with your wood edgebanding.

[jack duren]

Rick... im a bit confused... how can you run a taped edge against the fence and still not do a final cleanup?....jack

[Rick Lizek]

Rick... im a bit confused... how can you run a taped edge against the fence and still not do a final cleanup?....jack

The tape rides face down on the saw and the flat of the panel rides on the fence. The fence is raised slightly to allow the banding to go underneath the fence. The left side of the blade is in line with the outside of the fence. My fence is extrawide for pattern copy work which is a slightly different thing. Just a touch of sandpaper to put a slight round to get rid of the sharpness is all that is needed. The pic just shows my pattern, sacrificial fence but doesn't show all the applications you can do with it.
To be more concise on detail I actually screwed a shorter taller sectio on the fence for edgbanding trim off. With panels having a bow it allows it to trim it closer with less fussing later. The same fence and application is great on a router table for formica type laminate but the saw blade does a nice quick job of tape. You can even angle the blade slightly to save time beveling the edge so sanding is minimized. I can even trim the ends of tape with this set up.

[jack duren]

thx Rick.. i understand the procedure but when read "done" i thought there was a step or two missin ;) .....jack

[Alan Turner]

Rick,
Thanks for a great shop tip. I can see where the TS blade won't chip the edge banding, and funny or rising and falling grain on the edge band material won't matter at all. Once and done. Great idea. Thanks. (And I don't even edge band. May have to start. This will work with both thin and thicker banding.)

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I hate it too and have stopped doing it altogether....sorry you have to endure it.