Kapex Compatible Non-Ferrous Saw Blade

[Alan Lightstone]

I have some aluminum extrusions that I need to cut, and was looking for a non-ferrous blade for my Kapex. I won't be doing this very often, so I'm looking for a pretty inexpensive blade (if possible) to accomplish the task. Something less expensive than the Festool version, if possible.

Alternatively, should I just use an angle grinder or jig saw (which I have) and call it a day? Will they do a reasonable job getting a smooth edge?

[scott spencer]

Holbren has a couple of Oshlun blades for Festool. http://www.holbren.com/festool-saw-blades/

[Bill Graham]

Alan, the problem is the 30mm bore for the Kapex.

Freud 's LU89 and LU90 series blades are the cheapest I've found but they only come in 5/8 arbor size. Forrest (http://www.forrestblades.com/mitermaster.htm)has their #2 or #7 tooth styles for metal and they'll bore it 30mm for an extra $10 but you're talking half again or more the price of the Festool blade. I did find 2 Amana metal-cutting blades (http://www.amanatool.com/sawblades-nonferrous.html) with 30mm bore, checked on Amazon and they're $119 and $125, almost as much as the Festoy at $135.

If you don't have a lot of cutting to do and the extrusions aren't very thick I'd say just give the stock Festool blade a try. I've cut picture framing and bar stock up to 3/8x2 on mine with the wood blade and no problems. Just take it slow and easy. Angle grinder would be a pain, jigsaw might work with the right blade but cut quality depends on the saw and the extrusion thickness. If you've got a good saw that cuts square you'd probably be OK.

Like Norm says, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!

HTH,
Bill

[Alan Lightstone]

Would a Freud blade for my Sawstop be a better idea? This is obviously with turning the SawStop safety off. I always hate doing this.

I really don't want a rough cut, so I really don't want to use the Jigsaw.

[David Hawxhurst]

if its only a few cuts you could just do them on the kapex with the stock blade. i cut aluminum extesion on by miter saw frequently and have dedicated an old blade for it, was orginally used for cutting would but as it cut dull i now only use it for aluminum and brass. i have also cut aluminum on the table saw. i don't have a saw stop so don't know anything about safety on/off thing. but out of curiousity would you have to during it off? aluminum has not moisture to it.

[Art Mann]

Would a Freud blade for my Sawstop be a better idea? This is obviously with turning the SawStop safety off. I always hate doing this.

I really don't want a rough cut, so I really don't want to use the Jigsaw.

I have cut aluminum extrusions on my tablesaw several times using a 40 tooth combination blade that I didn't value very much. As it turned out, the aluminum didn't seem to dull or have any other adverse effects on the blade. One word of caution - the process will throw tiny hot shavings of aluminum all over the place and these can burn you. Try to have some sort of guard in place to protect you and by all means use eye protection.

[Alan Lightstone]

if its only a few cuts you could just do them on the kapex with the stock blade. i cut aluminum extesion on by miter saw frequently and have dedicated an old blade for it, was orginally used for cutting would but as it cut dull i now only use it for aluminum and brass. i have also cut aluminum on the table saw. i don't have a saw stop so don't know anything about safety on/off thing. but out of curiousity would you have to during it off? aluminum has not moisture to it.
It's conductivity, not moisture that it senses, so metal is a total no-no. But there is a way to temporarily disable it. But if you forget once - bye bye blade and cartridge.

[Alan Lightstone]

Finally I just gave up and used the blade that came with my SawStop. Never been used before. Cut through it like butter, though left a bunch of shavings EVERYWHERE. Not sure how dull it is now, but spending money for a single cut seemed foolish.