Using an Abrasive Cutoff Saw Blade in a Miter Saw???

[Rick Hubbard]

Maybe before I make a mistake I thought I’d ask for advice:

I need to cut some 4 inch thin-wall PVC and was wondering whether I could use a 10 inch abrasive blade (for cut-off saws) in my old 10 inch miter saw? Is there perhaps a difference in speed between a cut-off saw and a miter saw? Maybe different hole sizes between an abrasive blade and a saw-blade?

Thanks for the advice!!

[peter gagliardi]

I wouldn't do it, you run the risk of grit getting in the pivot/slide mechanisms. Standard practice is to mount a medium to fine tooth wood blade in the saw in reverse rotation , be sure to hold piece tightly.
Peter

[Myk Rian]

I would rather use a hack saw, then clean the cut with a band saw with a fine toothed blade.

[Bruce Page]

I don't understand why you would want to use an abrasive blade on PVC, abrasive blades are for cutting steel. A standard wood cutting blade will easily cut through PVC.

[johnny means]

I cut pvc all the time on my miter saw ans bandsaw. I never bother to change the blades out. Regular woodworking tooling worka just fine on pvc.

[johnny means]

P.S. an abrasive wheel is a bud idea, unless you want to melt the pvc in half.

[John McClanahan]

Here is my experience with cutting PVC pipe:

A toothed blade works fine. I used an abrasive blade to cut some steel once and the grit got into the saw pivot. It never worked smooth again.

I used a 19" bandsaw to trim off the end of a piece of 4" pipe once. When the blade cut through the wall of the pie, it grabbed and sent the pipe across the room, spinning like a top before I could react. I was holding the pipe at the end for more stability and ended up with 2 cut fingers from the cut edge of the pipe as it spun out of my hand. I will never cut pipe on a bandsaw again.

I have cut a fair amount of 4" and 6" drain pipe with a 10" miter saw with no problems. It only cuts part way through. You will need to rotate the pipe and align the kerf to finish the cut. While a finner toothed blade would be the better choice, I used a cheap 10" 40 tooth table saw blade with no problems.

John

[allan kuntz]

my dust collection system is 90% pvc and all cuts were done with my miter saw with what a regular wood blade with no problem to the saw or the blade.

Al

[Myk Rian]

I used a 19" bandsaw to trim off the end of a piece of 4" pipe once. When the blade cut through the wall of the pie, it grabbed and sent the pipe across the room, spinning like a top before I could react.
Which is why I suggested a fine toothed blade. I destroyed a 3-4tpi re-saw blade cutting a 4" piece of PVC.
Shattered the PVC in the process.

[Tom Willoughby]

I've used both a miter saw blade and fine bandsaw blade to cut through PVC pipe without issues when setting up my dust collection system.

I used an older blade on the miter saw as some of the pvc did seem to get on the blade. If using a bandsaw, I would recommend a miter gauge to help hold the pipe so that it is 90 degrees to the blade and doesn't rotate.

Kind regards,
Tom

[Chris Padilla]

I used the saw blade that came with my miter saw to cut PVC. It was a 32 tooth blade. One trick I did to prevent melting and plastic build up at the cutting edge was to cut it pretty darn fast. Get the blade up to full speed and rip it through. No melting/build-up and everything cut just fine for me. This is with 3" or less diameter PVC. For the 6" stuff that I build my dust collection system with, I used a sawzall and a wooden guide to keep me reasonably square.

I have used an abrasive blade on my miter saw to cut metal but it does make a mess of things...especially the plastic insert in the table top. I had to make a new one out of hardwood but now it is a zero-clearance one and works much better.

[Ron Kellison]

I have an old Delta miter saw that had a screw holding the plastic guard come loose during a cut. The end result was a severely damaged guard. Delta wanted more than the cost of a replacement saw for the part. At that point, the saw was basically ready to go out to the curb.

I mounted a 10" abrasive cutoff wheel to it and now use it to cut metal (think Biesemeyer rails, aluminum channel, etc.) and various types of plastic. It's set at 90 degrees all the time and I don't care if metal chips, etc. get blown into the table. It's definitely faster than a hacksaw and at least as accurate. BTW, I ALWAYS wear safety glasses when cutting and stand to one side when making a cut. I also clamp the work to the saw whenever possible.

Ron