Looking For Good Miter Clamps...

[Derek Arita]

I saw the Woodpecker Miter Clamps and they look great, but I see how they would hold the two pieces together, but don't see how they would pull the 2 sides of the joint together. These seem like they would work well, but I can't find them anywhere...
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/356/clamp84701008.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/521/clamp84701008.jpg/)
Any other suggestions for good miter clamps?

[Mark Wooden]

Not sure what your application is, but I use-
http://www.miterclamp.com/

http://www.ulmia.de/English/Ulmia-Schreinerkluepfel_1.htm

(Actually, I don't use the Chestnut Tool miter clamps, all mine are Hartfords, but they're no longer availible) Wait! maybe not!-http://www.coastaltool.com/clamps_vises/hartford/hartford_miter.html?mv_action=refresh&mv_order_item=HART62&id=e8PPvUzg#cart

The Ulmia's are great. Once you get used to them, you'll learn how to apply them is such a way that there's almost no trace of a ding where they were used. And there are ways around leaving any marks at all.

[Sam Murdoch]

I like these from the Collins Tool Company in Ohio http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_miter_clamps.htm. They are much like the Ulmias Mark linked to
These in conjunction with those from Woodpecker that you show could pretty much handle most applications. I especially like the Collins miter clamps for molding work - like crown molding and good for well jointed picture frame type work too.

[Myk Rian]

Multi-purpose in that you can use the clamps for other things.
263636

[Roger Rayburn]

I personally like the ones Myk Rian shows the pic of. The real advantage for me is that they don't require high precision for initial positioning of the clamp "legs", and then they give me lots of opportunity to "flush up" the corners and the faces. Best of all, when you need more just head to the table saw. I have also seen a version that uses half a dowel instead of a triangle for the clamp surface. I think that version would be advantageous for number of sides greater than 4, but I haven't had that one hit me yet. I like one handed clamps across the joint.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Another vote for the Collins Miter Clamps, love them, I would agree that the Collins Clamps forte is clamping moldings. Just make sure when you purchase them, to also buy the special pliers like tool also..

[Curt Harms]

I personally like the ones Myk Rian shows the pic of. The real advantage for me is that they don't require high precision for initial positioning of the clamp "legs", and then they give me lots of opportunity to "flush up" the corners and the faces. Best of all, when you need more just head to the table saw. I have also seen a version that uses half a dowel instead of a triangle for the clamp surface. I think that version would be advantageous for number of sides greater than 4, but I haven't had that one hit me yet. I like one handed clamps across the joint.

I've seen (haven't used) the dowel type. The one I saw was just a round section flattened on one side. The flat side goes against a strap which is clamped to the work piece. I suspect you'd need to use the quick squeeze clamps. It seems like trying to keep the foot of a traditional F clamp screw on a round surface while tightening it would be a real balancing act. The style Myk shows seems the easiest to use for 90o joints.