Better dyeing

[robert baccus]

I use dye on figured wood on occasion but for the last year have been trying long range whole log dyeing. Poor results--first was 6 months of green sweet gum. Complete immersion in Rite cloth dye/water--no penetration. Next a dry porous log(6-8") for 3 months with the same results. Newest, today, is the same dry ring porous log with fresh cut ends and 1" of diameter turned off. Also mixed 5% DNA to help with the smell which is like the homemade grog mentioned above. Also mixed a bit of endseal in the water to observe any texture change in the very dry wood. I anticipate new horizons ahead maybe.

[Russell Neyman]

Bob, I had a degree of luck coloring a piece of fresh cut madrone by using the dynamics of the tree itself. I re-cut the end of a log, creating a bit of a cup with my chainsaw, then poured a ton of blue dye/dna solution down the endgrain, and the tree absorbed quite a bit of it through the inherent capillary action. It was a subtle effect, but the blue showed up later in parts of the bowl.

I don't know if that helps any, but always glad to swap stories with a fellow experimenter.

[Jim Phipps]

Have you considered trying a vacuum system attached to the other end of the log to draw the dye into the end grain? Just a thought.

[Rick Markham]

Have you considered trying a vacuum system attached to the other end of the log to draw the dye into the end grain? Just a thought.

This was going to be my suggestion. I'd use a dye in a very high concentration! Should be super cool. I have seen some pen blanks that have to have been done this way, this is actually something I have spent more than a few hours brainstorming about (smaller scale, not whole logs.) They pressure treat whole telephone poles and pilings, no reason (other than having adequate equipment :D) you shouldn't be able to!