Workshop Lighting--How Much?

[Mark Duksta]

Hello All,

We've just moved into a new house and I'm in the process of setting up my workshop in our two car garage.

I'm planning on installing 5 double light flourescent fixtures spaced 4 feet apart along the width of the garage. Each is 8 feet in length. I'm also installing two along the front part of the garage that can be turned off when the garage door is in the up position. That's 7 - 8 foot fixtures in all. The garage is approxamately 20'x18'.

Does that sound like too much lighting? I can't seem to find very much information about how to calculate how much light would be ideal.

[Dr. Zack Jennings]

That's enough........

You could start 2 feet from each wall and go on 5-6 foot centers. At least, that's what I did.

[Rob Glynn]

The brighter the light, the easier to see marks, the less mistakes - but every mistake is easy to see.
The duller the light, the harder to see marks, the more mistakes - but you can't see the mistakes.
Whatever makes you happy!!!

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Mark.

I agree that it is not easy to find info on the spacing of fixtures inorder to obtain even lighting intensity. You might want to give a look at the GE business lighting web-page: http://www.gelighting.com/na/business/index.html. There are a lot of lighting terms to contend with, but they do have a calculator which can possibly give you what you need.

Another important consideration is 1) color temperature, and 2) CRI, color rendition index. Color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin as referenced to absolute zero, -273K.

For photographic reference, 6500K is considered to be white light. IF the light source is hotter, the light will contain more blue; if it is cooler, the light will contain more red. Pick lamps that are at least 5000K. (Many/most TV sets coming out of the factory have their color temp cranked way up to about 8500K. This gives a bluish white which for some reason people like.)

The CRI is a measure of how closely the light on a subject will give the human eye the true color of the object. a CRI of 100 says that you will see the true color of the item when viewed in light from a 100 CRI source. The lower the number, the worse the colors look. Look for a lamp that has as at least 85%, and preferably 90% or more CRI.Both of these indexes, color temp and CRI, will impact your finishing work.

My shop is about 24x24, and I have 8 fixtures. Each fixture contains 2 F32 T8 32W bulbs. I bought special fluorescent bulbs with a 5000K temp and a CRI of 91 at http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/Fluorescent.htm

Just a happy user....

[Von Bickley]

Mark,

It sounds like you have it planned about right. I think 6 or 7 "8 Ft. Lights" would be about what you would want. Don't worry about having too much light.
Let us know how it comes out.

[Rob Glynn]

I was just in my shop, looking for something, for the first time this weekend. I am doing some work associated with my job and the shop is out of bounds.
Your question was on my mind and I decided that I don't have enough light out there. I have 8 x 1200 mm tubes (4 feet) in a 24 x 26 feet shop. They are standard tubes, not daylight ones. My neighbour, an electrician, walked past and I grabbed him to get advice.
His advice is to double the number and change to daylight tubes evenly spread over the work space. He did some calculation on the back of his hand to establish that, but I didn't understand it. He also suggests some task specific lights, at the bandsaw, the router table and the bench.
My shop is clad with red cedar and is not lined. I get very little reflected light from the walls. He also suggested that I line it where I can, with a white or light coloured material.
Some of that may help you.
Rob

[Bruce Page]

Mark,
I think you have it about right. I’m a firm believer that you can’t have too much lighting, and it becomes more relevant as you grow older. I have 8 - four bulb, 4’ fixtures, each with high output bulbs, in my 2-car garage shop.

[Mike Evertsen]

I have 9 - 8 footer plus a few hanging 4 footers ,,, task lights on the some of the machines and when I do finishing I put up halogen lights,,,I'm also putting in more windows in the to bring natural light,,,,:cool:

[Mark Duksta]

Thanks for your replies.

I'm much more confident of my decision now. I've already installed all the fixture boxes. I'm now getting bids from electricians.

In addition to to the wiring I'm soundproofing the garage. After that's completed I'm building storage for everything. I want everything behind a door away from the dust. I'll post pictures at some point. Projects move in geologic time around my house.

Thanks again.

Mark D.

[Les Bartel]

I have twelve 4' 4 bulb fixtures in my 720 square foot shop (22x36). Lots of light for my 42 year old eyes.

[Chris Damm]

I agree that it is hard to have too much light. The older you get the more you need. I have 18 8' t12 HE bulbs in my 625 sq. ft. shop and it is just about right for these 54 year old eyes. Chris

[Rob Russell]

Originally posted by Mark Duksta
I've already installed all the fixture boxes. I'm now getting bids from electricians.

Mark,

I'm curious - if you've installed the fixture boxes, why would you need an electrician? If it's to add switches and tie them into the breaker panel, that's really very straightforwards to do.

Rob

[John Christiansen]

Rob Glynn made two of the best suggestions "task specific lighting". and "light colored walls."

If you know where you are going to locate items such as, your work bench (most important) or tools that you need to "work to a line/mark with," such as drill press or bandsaw, then try to position your lighting so that you wont be casting a shadow on your own work.

I have sixteen, four foot cool white tubes, in a 12 X 26 shop, and although the lighting is very good, I still located some more two foot tubes over specific work areas. after about a year of, not thinking to turn the "specific lights" on, I finally wired them in to come on with the main lighting. This way I don't struggle away at something until it's almost done and then realize "hey, I could see what I'm doing, if I just turned that light on" or, turning the lights off to leave, and seeing that I have to go back over and turn off one of the other lights.

Another thing I will add..... I didn't pay attention to your location, but here in Mi. I step out to the shop many many times in the winter to do some little five or ten minute task. And it is not worth it to turn the furnace on. So I have an area of wall bench that has a 500 watt halogen tube over it. Very nice! instant light, and warmth for those chilly fingers. A screwdriver or pliers at near freezing temps is hard to work with.


Well now I see where you are, I guess winter heat is not a big concern for you, but you northern folks might want to consider this. it really is nice.

[Mark Duksta]

Yes I know it's a straight forward thing to install the wiring but I really don't want to burn the place down. In addition to the lights I'm having two 220 volt outlets put in as well as number of 110s. One is switched for the air cleaner. While the walls are open I'm also running speaker wire.

As for the task lighting I'm puttng in track lighting over the work-counter and the middle of the shop. Both are on dedicated switches. I figure that the fixtures for the entire shop will cost around $350 and another $150 or so for the bulbs. The electrician will be here in another two weeks. Can't wait. Then I can start sheet rocking (and cutting wood).

Mark D.

[Bob Powers]

My 24X28 ft. shop has eight dual 8 ft. fixtures 9 feet from the floor (that's 16 eight foot tubes). There are two circuits so I can switch on every other light with a given switch. I have very little natural daylight. My 76 year old eyes are happy most of the time with half the fixtures turned on. I only use the full complement when I am using hand planes, scraper, etc., and want to see the sheen of the workpiece. I have a couple of clip-on floodlights that I use to create shadows when needed, or when I am applying finishes.

[Jerry Todd]

Mark.
I am also building a new workshop. The outside is finished and will start on the inside in a few months. I downloaded a terrific article " Lighting for the Workshop" by Jack Lindsey. He had a formula for placing the light fixtures. I still have a copy of the article but I can not remember where I downloaded it from. Perhaps another Creeker will remember. If not I can make a copy and mail it to you if you are interested.
Jerry

[Jim Becker]

Originally posted by Mark Duksta
Yes I know it's a straight forward thing to install the wiring but I really don't want to burn the place down.

You are a wise man, Mark. While electrical wiring isn't a horribly hard job, anyone not comfortable with it should not do it. Period. It's not a good time for experimentation!

And since I didn't comment earlier...the more light, the better. But also consider the "color" of the light. You either need to pick the right tubes for a more natural light (not always inexpensive, either) or use a combination of both fluorescent and incandescent lighting. Otherwise, colors will not be true and it may be more tiring on your eyes.

[Ted Shrader]

Mark -

An additional comment to add. I read somewhere (but can't remember where) that you should mix in a little incandescent with the fluorescent. Not only for the color balance, but to help eliminate the strobe effect.

Fluorescent strobe effect could make a blade or other moving piece of machinery appear to be stopped given the right circumstances. The incandescent light will provide enough backup to eliminate this effect. Another solution to eliminate this effect is to wire different strings of fixtures on different phases if you are lucky enough to have three phase power to the shop area.

Ted