Double save and a bundle of firsts.

[Doug Herzberg]

This chunk of ash was in my neighbor's firewood pile, along with some honey locust. I traded him some checked silver maple and a bowl made from the honey locust. First save.

I made a bowl from some Iowa blue pine and took it back on my recent trip to give to the neighbor who told me about the free wood in the first place. He showed me his new shop, which is a metal machine shop big enough to park two combines and a tractor in and still have room for all his tools and equipment. It's heated and has a bathroom and a prep kitchen for his wife's garden produce. During the tour, he showed me his metal lathe, which he is starting to use for wood turning and his blast cabinet. I told him that I've been looking at sandblast equipment and explained how woodturners are using them. Long story shorter, the next day he showed up at my mom's house with his first portable sandblaster to give to me.

The credit and blame for this bowl go to a lot of turners here at Sawmill Creek. The form is mine and I didn't see how flat the curves are until I took the pictures.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon3.pngThe bead at the rim is stolen from a recent posting by Roger Chandler.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon3.pngThe black gesso is inspired by Kathy Marshall's recent posts. I have questions.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon3.pngThe bead at the foot is thanks to Reed Gray (sort of). I appreciate that an experienced turner would post that he turned through the bottom of a bowl. The inside of this bowl is deeper than the outside. I was busily hollowing away, telling myself how good I'm getting at this, when I noticed that the little nib at the center I just cut off seemed awfully deep. It was in the tenon. My fix was to add a piece of ash and make the bottom bead. I know the base is too big now, but better than a funnel, I guess. Second save.

So first sandblasted piece, first black gesso piece, first bowl bigger on the inside than on the outside.

Questions about black gesso - DNA seems to be a solvent. I caused some bleeding into the light wood trying to seal the light wood with a DNA based finish. What doesn't dissolve gesso? Is it good to sand gesso for smoother finish or to remove brush marks? Is is supposed to be self-leveling? What is the best way to apply it? I tried foam applicators, a brush and some soft cloth. Would a gloss finish over the gesso look good or just highlight the flaws? Can it stand as a finish, or does it need something on top?

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Sorry to go on and on. Thanks for looking and for your comments and advice. Ash 6-1/4" x 3-1/4".

[Jim Burr]

2 thumbs up over all! JMHO, but I'd like to see one sweeping curve to the foot on this one. The ogee seems to tall, but again...JMO. Cool contrast between the gesso and the light color of the wood. Saaawwweeet!

[Thom Sturgill]

While the ogee does seem tall, but I bet the bowl feels good in the hand, and that is important if it is designed to be used. Interested in the info on the gesso myself. I probably would have sealed the natural parts first, just in case. Anyway, I like the bowl and consider it a good save, and now you have your first 'bottomless bowl' behind you.

[Dan Forman]

I think alcohol is a solvent for acrylic paint, which is what gesso is. It is not affected by mineral spirits or turpentine, as it's primary purpose is for treating canvas and linen prior to oil painting, and those are the most common solvents used for oils. It dries quickly and does not self level very well. It is pretty durable, not really needing a finish, but has some "tooth", so dust will probably hold on better than if the surface were smoother. You might want to and it smooth and apply a gloss or matt acrylic finish, according to what effect you are after - that would help with the dust problem. I've only used it for painting, not turning. I bet Kathy can tell you more about it if you PM her.

Nice save, by the way. I think you could use the "Ultra deep inside" as a selling point! :)

Dan

[Kathy Marshall]

Nice save Doug!

As far as the gesso, yes you can sand it to smooth it out. If you sand too much and down to the wood, just apply another coat. I apply it a couple of different ways. For a larger area like on your bowl, I would use a foam brush and apply with the lathe spinning at about 100 rpms (the lowest my lathe will go), that will help to limit brush lines. On smaller areas I use a small piece of a shop towel to wipe it on a section at a time, and I wipe the section until it's dry which almost eliminates any marks or ridges.
For top coats, I usually use antique oil (which has no effect on the gesso that I've noticed) and I have also applied spray on lacquer sanding sealer with no ill effects, I can't say what the results would be with a wipe or brush on lacquer.
Hope that helps!

[Roger Chandler]

Nice save, Doug! I like the natural inside and the painted outside. I like the beaded rim ;) and the shape of the bowl has some good utilitarian purpose........pretty nifty addition to the bottom........nice way to save a form!