Parks planer refurb

[Bill Bixby]

Can anyone help me figure out how to remove this gear?

got this old planer off of CL and I was going to refurb it. Its actually in good condition, I really just want to take it apart and put it back together.

Disassembly comes down to the removal of this gear which allows everything else to come off. I removed the set screw and have been beating on it with various tools and it will not budge.

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[Sam Puhalovich]

DON'T beat on it, Bill.
There's 2 possibilities. A burr caused by the set screw ... or rust between the shaft and the gear.
You'll need at the minimum: a gear puller and some rust penetrating lubricant.
Get some penetrating lubricant ... tip the machine on it's side as-far-as-you-can ... to get a little gravity assist to get the liquid around-and-into the joint.
Apply the penetrating oil ... let it sit for at least an hour.
Apply the gear puller.

[Gary Radice]

I agree it is probably a burr. You might try tapping the gear back onto the shaft to expose the outboard end (gently, use a block of wood and tap on the wood, not the gear). Then file down any burrs on the end of the shaft.

I also agree: don't beat on it. The aluminum housing might crack and you really don't want that to happen!

[Bruce Page]

I agree, do not beat on it, use a gear puller. It might also help to apply a little heat to the gear hub using a propane torch. Be cautious of any flammable liquids/oils nearby.

[zayd alle]

Bill,

It has been a couple of years since I rebuilt my old Parks, but I don't remember that gear giving me trouble. However, if I remember correctly, the gearbox hangs off the end of the cutterhead, so couldn't you disassemble the remainder of the gears and then drop the gearbox from under this gear/shaft? It doesn't seem to be connected to anything else. That would allow you to use a puller to remove it. If I'm wrong on disassembly order, read on.

The advice is good so far, but I would add: file down the exposed burrs (and there are some to the left) to the point the gear will slide easily further onto the shaft. Then with more of the shaft end exposed, file down what is remaining, including any possible mushrooming on the end. It looks like you should be able to get the gear far enough onto the shaft to expose the entire end section.

When it's time to remove the gear, Kroil has always worked well for me for penetrating oil (also put a drop or two in the set screw hole). Give the gear a few light taps around its circumference to ensure it's not cocked/bound. To apply even pressure in tight places like that (It doesn't look like you have enough space to get a gear puller on there), I've used ball joint forks in the past. And if it shows signs of moving but is still tight, I've split a steel bushing (or even PVC pipe) down its length to get it around the shaft to take up space between the stubborn gear and a lever point -- in this case, the roll bearing on the left. If you can support behind that roll bearing sufficiently, use the fork or a couple of slotted screwdrivers between the split bushing and the gear to lever it off. Ok, I just reread that -- it sounds complicated, so let me know and I'll draw a diagram if need be.

Good luck with it.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Bill
Check for a second set screw in the same hole, was used to lock first screw in place. Also check out OWWM lots good info there. Tom

[Erik Loza]

Bill, what if, in addition to the Kroil (or penetrant of your choice...) that others have suggested, you put the whole feed roller shaft into the freezer for a couple of hours? Then, use the three-jaw puller on it? That's worked for me in the past.

Good luck.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[John TenEyck]

Or if it ain't broke don't fix it.

John

[Bill Bixby]

The issue is that the gear prevents the housing from being removed and a gear puller wont fit into the opening. Maybe if there were a right angle gear puller? I may have to fabricate something.

[keith micinski]

Don't use a little heat, use a lot of heat and it will come right off. I don't even bother with so called penetrating oils or even brute force anymore. Heat is always the answer and there is rarely a situation where a little more heat is a bad thing

[Michael Mayo]

Don't use a little heat, use a lot of heat and it will come right off. I don't even bother with so called penetrating oils or even brute force anymore. Heat is always the answer and there is rarely a situation where a little more heat is a bad thing

Exactly what I was going to recommend. Just make sure there are no parts that can be damaged by the heat. Heat ALWAYS seems to get things moving and off for me the torch is your friend in this case as long as you can use it safely without damaging other things.

[joe maday]

If heat is used you do have to be careful that you do not soften the metal shaft or gear. Some parts, although not hardened like a chisel or file, they do have a level of hardness to maintain their life span of the gear teath and the surface of the shaft for a keyway or set screw. Also check if the gear is cast as oposed to machined steel. Cast can crack if heated/cooled to fast or uneven presure is applied. If the gear/shaft need to be separated, Why is the gear box sloted? I would find out more and check out the Vintage Machinery Web site for more information. Time spent now could save hours of work and/or frustration later.
My 2 Cents.

[Bill Bixby]

I got a pair of vise grips around the collar part of the gear and got it spinning on the shaft. Eventually it came of. I'm having this problem with just about every collar and gear on the machine. The shafts are all boogered up where the set screws contact. Like someone put them in so tight they dug into the metal.

[Bruce Page]

Bill, it is normal for a set screw to mar the shaft when tightened. One way to avoid the deformation is to file a small flat on the shaft where the set screw makes contact.

[keith micinski]

Or an even better way to secure set screws is to drill a small oversize simple in the shaft where the set screw goes. Take a punch and stick it through the hole in the gear and then drill it out a little.

[Bill Bixby]

once the gear came off everything else came off pretty quickly. My mechanic gave me some stuff called Aero Kroil which worked like magic freeing up the stuck gears.

Evaporust shined up the rollers real nice.

http://i.imgur.com/oPWlbpAl.jpg

After awhile, I didnt even bother cleaning off the grease, the paint stripper cut right through and got everything.


http://i.imgur.com/URKXw17l.jpg


My daughter wants me to paint it pink but I'm not yet sold on the idea.

http://i.imgur.com/FEXwrKM.png


What type of paint is good for this? Plain old rustoleum?

[george wilson]

DO LOOK into the set screw hole. There is sometimes a second,short set screw down in the hole. They certainly used them on my Hardinge HLVH lathe,and on the large motor pulley on the old Delta 8" jointer we had in the toolmaker's shop.

[Bill Bixby]

I'm stuck :(

I got it put back together but my dial indicator is too big to fit into the opening to finalize the setup. I need one where the spindle is 4" or less...the one I have is 5". I looked on Amazon and that particular dimension is not indicated. Does anyone know of an inexpensive small dial indicator?

One think I noticed is that the pressure bar is mounted on springs just like the infeed and outfeed rollers. That means that potentially it could be pushed up into the cutterhead. WHen in the correct position, there is only about 1/16" separation between the two and it only takes two turns of the pressure bar adjustment screws to pull it up high enough to contact the blades. It seems really strange to design it this way. Of course the bottom of the pressure bar is a few hundredths higher than the blade edges so there shouldnt be a way for anything to get through the blades and still be high enough to contact the pressure bar. But it still raises the question: Why is the pressure bar on springs to begin with?

Thanks!!

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[Bill Bixby]

I'm really hoping someone can help me with one last hurdle. During re-assembly, I noticed that the bolts attaching the pressure bar were slightly bent. I discovered that the holes to mount the pressure bar dont line up with their corresponding holes in the sides of the planer. The obvious solution would be to loosen the sides and pull them closer together until the holes line up. This isnt possible however because the blade hood (colored orange in the photo) must fit in between the sides. I would have to grind about 3/16" off the width of the blade hood to make it fit AND have the pressure bar holes line up.

I hope this makes sense to someone.....Any suggestions are welcome.

http://i.imgur.com/TXTxtZL.png

[Andrew Howe]

I used sherwinn williams oil based enamel mixed to the original paint color. Used a good brush and mini roller to paint it on my bandsaw. Left it out in the sun to bake on. Worked great