Need bearing for G0490. I am replacing cutter head. Any thoughts?

[Adam Carl]

I am replacing the cutterhead on my G0490 with a spiral cutter head and I need 2 new bearings.

The numbers on the current bearings and the numbers on the Grizzly web site don't match. I would buy them from Grizzly but they are not available to add to the cart.

From Grizzly web site:
P60042RS
P60052RS

Marking on bearings:
60004RS
6005RS

One of the bearings has RSKR on it.

Anyone know where I can get these?

Adam

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Adam,

Are you replacing it with a Grizzly spiral cutter head? If so, you should be able to call Grizzly technical support tomorrow during normal business hours and get some assistance there.

If you are using an aftermarket cutter head, I would take the existing bearings, pillow blocks and cutter head to a nearby bearing supply house. Most cities of any size or with some manufacturing will have a bearing supply house that can either tell you what your need just by cross referencing the numbers on the bearings or have the ability to measure the bearing housings and cutter head shaft and suggest the proper bearings.

[Mark W Pugh]

I use NAPA, yes the car parts store, for my bearings. If they don't have it, they can normally get it overnight.

[glenn bradley]

I get my Bandsaw guide bearings from www.vxb.com (http://www.vxb.com/) but they carry all kinds. Great service.

[Jim Andrew]

When I switched my jointer to a helical cutterhead, I just removed the bearings with a puller and put them on the new cutterhead. Of course, my jointer was new and saw no need to replace the bearings. How old is your jointer?

[Jeff Monson]

I tried crossing those bearing numbers with no luck, I'd contact Griz and see what they have to say. Its possible they have an interchange for a US made bearing that would have the same dimensions. Reusing the old ones is always an option also, a puller should easily remove them.

[glenn bradley]

VXB has a match: http://www.vxb.com/SRCH.html?Store_Code=bearings&Search=6005RS

[David Kuzdrall]

I believe that the difference posted only refers to the type of seals and not the actual size of the bearings. I made the same change as you did about two years back and just ordered the "RS" designated 6004 and 6005 from amazon...I have not had any issues with the bearings.

[Adam Carl]

Thanks all, I found a bearing store in buffalo. 6004-RS and 6005-RS were the bearing numbers. I called grizzly and they verified these numbers. Not sure why they add stuff to their part numbers. Everyone's comments were helpful.

[joe maday]

Be sure to get better shielded/sealed berings, maybe step up the quality Thats usually what the added letters and numbers that are stamped into the bearing races. 6004 is the bearings size/dimentions and the added suffix is sealed, shielded, what temperature grease, moisture/water tolerance, etc. ...would pay off in the long run by not needing to repeat the whole process again. The dealer should be able to explain and offer choices.

[Adam Carl]

Thanks all, I found a bearing store in buffalo. 6004-RS and 6005-RS were the bearing numbers. I called grizzly and they verified these numbers. Not sure why they add stuff to their part numbers. Everyone's comments were helpful.

Last night I installed the new spiral cutter head. I have not put the fence back on and run a board through but I have started it up. The new head seems to have a different sound to it. More of a rumble and kinda loud. Anyone with the G0490(X) and the grizzly spiral head notice this sound.


There doesn't appear to be anymore vibration than before, in fact seems to be less. (That is probably because the pulley screw was not tight and almost back out. It obviously was not tightened at the factory)

Hopefully I'll finish up today and give it a test.

[joe maday]

Additionally, When I did this change over with a byrd cutterhead into a jet 15 planer I also changed over the infeed and out feed rollers. Replaced both of them them with the outfeed rollers from a delta 15 planer.....They are rubber coated. No more ridges left by the roller serrations. They grip the wood like magic and I never had a reason to look back. You do have to be careful not to just jam the wood into the machine to keep the edge or corner from "poking" into the rubber but that should not be the way to operate the planer regardless of the rollers, it's not a wood chipper. I'm surprised that this is not offered as an option by manufacturers, or even as standard equipment. I have been using them for over a year and my brother has been using this setup for over 15 years. he had to change the rubber infeed roller once, because of the rubber ripping but that has been addressed by the maker of the rollers because the rollers that are availible now have a different rubber, different color and harder. Very pleased with the results and its an easy change-over.

[Adam Carl]

** Follow up** Cut everything back together and ran some test boards through the machine. The cut is amazing.

[Rob Lee CT]

Bumping this old thread because it seems to be on point. I just ordered a Byrd planer head from Grizzly for my new (old) Powermatic Model 15 and need to buy 2 new bearings. Byrd customer support says I need a 6204 and a 6205, and that I can get them at Fastenal or my local bearing house. I'm hoping one of you folks who knows a lot about machinery construction and repair can explain what's really needed in a replacement bearing, because I'm too ignorant to make an informed choice.

I went to the Fastenal web site and searched for "6204 bearing" (https://www.fastenal.com/products?term=6204+bearing&sortby=wholesaleprice&sortdir=ascending). Too many choices! Turns out the 6204 is a 20mm bore, 14mm wide, 47mm outer diameter deep groove ball bearing...but from that point, I can pay as little as $2.50 and as much as $44 for a single bearing. Some have rubber seals and some are shielded, there are significantly different maximum static and dynamic loads, and max RPM's range from 6000 to 15000. I'm guessing I want one of the $15-20 bearings but which one?

I'm out of my depth here. Any machinists or mechanical engineers care to weigh in on how to pick the right bearing for this (or functionally similar jointer head/shaper arbor/bandsaw wheel) application?

[David Kumm]

Sealed will have a slightly lower rpm rating but since those bearings are relatively small, it won't matter. If they are exposed to dust, the sealed will keep crud out better than shielded. When I'm buying standard stamped steel cage bearings, I try to get SKF Explorer because they are a slightly better precision- ABEC 3. Natchi Quest are similar but SKF are my first choice. FAG, Fafnir, and NSK are also good. I would stay with standard clearance unless the rpm is on the upper end of the bearings limit which shouldn't be the case here. Usually a sealed will be 6xxx 2rs although NSK are different ( DDU ?). Shielded are usually ZZ. If you need a bearing with only one seal or shield, it is usually easier and cheaper to buy one with both and remove one. Seals can be removed and replaced, shields only if you have more skill than me. Dave

PS, Glad they are 62xx vs the 60xx in the old posts. 6000 series are a little light . Machines used to run larger and higher precision bearings than they do now. A way to cheapen the machine without it being obvious.

[Rob Lee CT]

Sealed will have a slightly lower rpm rating but since those bearings are relatively small, it won't matter. If they are exposed to dust, the sealed will keep crud out better than shielded. When I'm buying standard stamped steel cage bearings, I try to get SKF Explorer because they are a slightly better precision- ABEC 3. Natchi Quest are similar but SKF are my first choice. FAG, Fafnir, and NSK are also good. I would stay with standard clearance unless the rpm is on the upper end of the bearings limit which shouldn't be the case here. Usually a sealed will be 6xxx 2rs although NSK are different ( DDU ?) Shielded are usually ZZ. If you need a bearing with only one seal or shield, it is usually easier and cheaper to buy one with both and remove one. Seals can be removed and replaced, shields only if you have more skill than me. Davet

PS, Glad they are 62xx vs the 60xx in the old posts. 6000 series are a little light . Machines used to run larger and higher precision bearings than they do now. A way to cheapen the machine without it being obvious.

Exactly what I needed to know. I will buy an SKF manufactured 6204 with 2 rubber seals, standard clearance, ABEC3 precision. And a comparable 6205. Thank you very much, Dave!

[John Lanciani]

Bearings are one of the items (electrical parts is the other no brainer) where it truly makes no sense to go back to the machine importer for replacements. You'll pay way too much to get the same (possibly marginal) quality part that the machine was likely built with. There is no magic to bearings, the vast majority of WW machine bearings are industry standard and everything you need to know is right on the bearing itself in the part number. If you don't have a local bearing house there are plenty of on-line suppliers that will be more than happy to help you save money and get equal or better replacements. Here are two of my favorite on-line sources;

http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/

http://www.vxb.com/

[roger wiegand]

In general I think I've gotten great advice from the local bearing shop. I take my old one in, tell them what it's for and they usually give me a few options ranging from "this one is cheap and will work, but not for long" to "this one is great, will run forever, costs and arm and a leg, but way overkill for your application". There's usually a sensible choice someplace in the middle.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Like Roger, I have always gotten good advice from my local bearing shops in the city when I worked in Chicago and in the rural area where I currently reside.