Reclaimed Oak Coffee Table Design Help

[andy brumenschenkel]

I have some reclaimed oak from a timber frame project I did a few years back. This stuff is very rough with checks, knots, nail holes, and bolt holes; I built a desk form it last year and it came out very nice. I am planning on making a coffee table for a friends wedding present. Here is my sketchup model of the table (I know my SU skills are sub-par). A lot of the design came from the sizes and shapes of the pieces that I have, but overall I think I'm fairly pleased with the design. I don't really like the stretcher connecting the 2 legs, but thought it would be necessary.

I would love some critique on the design.






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[Jim Koepke]

How are you planning to connect the stretcher?

One purpose of a stretcher is to prevent racking. a bridal joint of dovetails may make for a better connection.

jtk

[David Weaver]

The stretcher would become a through tenon with a wedge if I were to do the table, and the top of the table and feet would have a curve. The pedestal would be one piece per end (obviously for the through tenon) and the feet would look a little more like this:

http://www.atdamerican.com/atd/browse/School-Furniture/Art-Room-Furniture/Shain-Solutions/Pedestal-Table-with-Laminate-Top/D/30100/P/1:4:1074:10145/I/42640

Sorry I can't find a better design, but the feet on that would be more substantial as would the top of the pedestal, and the height make the whole thing a little more stubby in proportion vs. the picture. I wouldn't make it so substantial, though, that it was over-heavy on the bottom.

What kind of furniture style do they like? What else do they have, like what's the style of the other stuff in the room?

[andy brumenschenkel]

Thanks for the input from the veterans! If I went with the stretcher I would probably do a lap joint in the stretcher that the legs sit in, maybe held vertically with a floating tenon.
Honestly, there is no design of the house so I have free reign.

[Bill McDermott]

Andy, I like that design and think the stretcher is right - aesthetically. The V-shaped legs and relatively light feet make the table top heavy (in appearance) without that activity down low. While respecting David's traditional approach with a through tenon, I like the gap between the legs exactly because it's unique and cool. The connection of the stretcher to the legs is an interesting puzzle. I would put a metal rod between the legs and simply drop the stretcher over the rod -- you know, with a slot in exactly the right place. That would make assembly and breakdown even easier than wedged tenons. Finally, the legs look too thick to my eye. It would be interesting to see a model that planed off a 1/2" to lighten things up. Anyway, you have created a unique and attractive design. Very contemporary style, built from reclaimed material. All good. Kudos.

[Andrew Nemeth]

Andy,
This looks like a good start to a project. I'm a fan of modern design so most of my recommendations are realativly small changes as the design as it already is appealing. That being said, if it where me, I would let the stretcher into each leg a bit tightening up the gap but still preserving it as a design element. IMo with the gap being the same width as the thickness of the stretcher it looks a little "slapped together" instead of joined. My preference would be to thin the stretcher out vertically a touch (maybe even adding a slight arc to it) and raise it in the legs as well to around 1/3 the total height off the ground. If you don't care for the stretcher you could raise it up to 2/3 off the ground and it would virtually disappear under the top as you will almost always be viewing a coffee table from above. I agree with David on the feet, a little curve may give it a better "stance". My final recommendation for the time being would be to detail the plumb cuts a little (the edges of the top, the ends of the stretcher, the ends of the feet), maybe something as simple as not cutting them vertical.

[andy brumenschenkel]

Thanks for all of the input. I changed the thickness of the legs to be 1" in lieu of 1-1/4" and reduced the thickness of the feet to 1-1/4 to match. I also Reduced the gap down to 3/4" to get more of a lap joint look at the connection to the stretcher. On Andrew's suggestion, I changed the profile of the table top to match proportionally the chamfer of the legs (not sure I like it though).

[Everett Fulkerson]

I like the direction you are going and agree with Bill about the table being top heavy. This could be easily addressed with a thicker "foot". The main problem I see is the connection at the base. Structurally, I believe you actually NEED a big through tenon there, pegged even. It could be a design detail if the feet were up off the ground a bit, you would just see the end of the tenon hanging down in the middle. I think some negative space within the stretcher would play nicely off the sides if you keep them apart in the middle.

I think its awesome you put your pre build up for critique. A critique from other woodworkers is an invaluable resource, for a craftsmen of any skill level. The more input you can get the better.

Look forward to seeing the finished piece.


Be Good

Rhett

[Prashun Patel]

Can you post dimensions of the top and the height of the piece? The leg design appears slightly top heavy to me even with a lower stretcher, which doesn't feel right to me at the existing location. Can you put it in the same plane as the feet? Perhaps even arched to soften the lines? I think in general I'd like to see the tops of the legs a little narrower and the bottoms wider. To preserve the lightness, I might play with the gap in between those legs.

Last, because the tops of the legs will be connected to the tops with some kind of floating connection, I might consider running a second center stretcher up against the bottom of the table top. This will give more support to the top and will provide easier connection points between the top and base.

Well executed, I'm sure it'll look great whatever you decide. Can't wait to see more pix.

[Tom Scott]

I like the gap and the resulting bridle joint with the stretcher. My first thought was that it reminded me of a Gary Weeks table ... http://www.garyweeks.com/trestle_tables.htm
I also agree with some others that the top of the legs seem too large. I would thin it up a bit and might add a slight curve. With this reduction I think you could then push the stretcher up to about 2/3 the overall height.

[Andrew Nemeth]

I should have been a bit more specific when describing the table edge and other plum cuts. I guess I was envisioning a more subtle detail such as a 5-10 degree undercut on top and similar undercuts on the ends of the stretcher and feet (in actuality it would be a 80-85 degree cut on the stretcher and feet). As far as your current model what about chamfering the underside of the top instead of the top side? It would "lighten" the top up a bit. If your intrested I'd be happy to sketch my thoughts out a little more clearly.

[George Gyulatyan]

I like the overall design. I'd lighten the legs some more by poking holes in them and I'd chamfer the underside of the tabletop rather than the top.

Something like this:
262910

I'd probably lighten them further by going to 3/4" thickness than 1.5" as in the drawing.

I am sure I didn't get the scaling quite right based on your drawings, but for conveying the idea, this should do.

[andy brumenschenkel]

Now I'm kicking myself for never doing this sooner, after all of the pieces I've made and then after sat back and realized what I should have changed. It's nice to have my own little design team here!

Thanks guys