Anybody have a JET JJ-6OS OPEN STAND? (Open-stand specific question need help)

[Mark Kay]

Does anybody have a Jet JJ-6OS Open Stand jointer?

The manual is unclear--when you put the base together, do the side braces overlap the front & rear braces, or do the front & rear braces overlap the side braces? I can't tell from the manual and it looks like the front & rear UPPER braces have 2 small holes near the end. The carriage bolt square holes have enough play for either way it seems. I don't know if jet made an open stand 8" jointer but if they did it would probably apply too.

This may be the same stand as the Delta 37-190 jointer...

Thanks for any help!

[Brian Tymchak]

Mark, I don't have that jointer, but from looking at the exploded view of the stand in an online manual, I doubt it makes much difference which overlaps which. However, since I have a little obsessive streak about reconciling questions like this, :) , I would likely choose to lap the longer side over the shorter side, just in case it gives fractionally more rigidity to the longer side.

[Mark Kay]

Thanks Brian. I originally had the long rails over the short because the rear long rail had two smaller holes drilled in each end... but they were drilled before they powder coated the rails, not machined later. And I couldn't find anything in the manual showing a use for them! So I reversed everything and put the short rails over the long ones--the bolts that hold the upper half go through the short rails, one on the left and two on the right. I looked as closely as possible at the pics here: http://www.johngweber.com/jgw/ui2/f1026.htm and it looked like ends over front & rear rails.
The only problem I had was I wish I could have gotten more tension on the belt, especially since there were 8 screws just to get the guards off... but the motor bolts were nearly at the end of the travel slots. Not to mention I was putting it together by myself and lifting the cast iron bed assembly was a chore!

I still haven't fired it up & still have to clean the beds--it had that brown soaked paper on the machined surfaces. Jet says to use kerosene but I don't know how easy that will be to come by when it's 80 degrees out. The manual says not to use gas, mineral spirits, paint thinner, etc. Maybe WD40? I'd like to save my big bottle of Everclear for something else!

Thanks again.

[Brian Tymchak]

The only problem I had was I wish I could have gotten more tension on the belt, especially since there were 8 screws just to get the guards off... but the motor bolts were nearly at the end of the travel slots.


I had that same issue with my JJ-6CSDX. I also felt like I didn't get the tension on the belt that I wanted. But I got it as good as I could get it and it has worked out.



I still haven't fired it up & still have to clean the beds--it had that brown soaked paper on the machined surfaces. Jet says to use kerosene but I don't know how easy that will be to come by when it's 80 degrees out. The manual says not to use gas, mineral spirits, paint thinner, etc. Maybe WD40? I'd like to save my big bottle of Everclear for something else!


Ain't new tools fun! I used Simple Green and a plastic scrub pad and shop towels to clean the packing grease off all my machines. It took a little longer, but I didn't want to use all the highly flammable solvents in my basement shop. Then I hit it with some Top Cote (http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD/ref=pd_sim_hi_1). Works pretty well for me.

[Mark Kay]

Brian, sorry for the delay and thanks for your reply.

I originally did a search about removing whatever is put on it from the factory but most results people complained of "packing grease" or something similar. Mine only had those saturated brown papers on the machined surfaces so I thought it was something different than what everybody was talking about. Then after thinking about it for a while, I think mine dried up from sitting in a warehouse for so long before being sold to me. I wasn't sure if WD40 was good or bad and finally decided to try it. Then a friend brought over some car wax. Then a neighbor gave me a can I couldn't find much about: LAMI-LUBE. It's for routing laminates, but the last line said something like, "Excellent for lubricating table saw tops!" Found the 1 page flyer here:

http://lami-lube.com/PDF/LamiLubeFlyer.pdf (http://lami-lube.com/PDF/LamiLubeFlyer.pdf)

I have not tried it yet, have to read the directions on the can first. I'm still on the first two coats of wax. I was really surprised how quiet the machine is, even face jointing tigerwood (goncalo alves.)