First use of Infinity Lock Miter Router bit setup tool...

[Bill Huber]

It works, it really works, first time use.

Just took some scrap out of the scrap bucket and gave it a try.

The set up is nothing, just line up the marks and set the bit, line up the marks and set the fence and then do it.....
You do have to measure and mark the center of you wood and that is it.

Pros:
Very easy to set up.

Cons:
There is no instruction of any type, no sheet of paper or anything. I know there is more to it because there are more marks on the tool. I watch the video and that is how I knew how to set it up.

Wants:
Would like to see the lines go around the corner so they are on the end of the tool.
Would like to see some type of instruction sheet, it would not be much but some that would talk about the offset cuts.

Here are 2 pictures of the first joint and I do mean the first, not test parts, just set it up and cut them. Now after I cut the I noticed that the inside corner was not spot on like the outside so I checked the width of the boards. One board is .740 and the other one was .756 so I think that is the reason, not the setup of the bit.
They are not glued up, just laying on the desk.

262551 262552

[Ray Newman]

Instructions are here: http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Lock%20Miter%20Master%20Manual.pdf

Mine was shipped on Friday, so it should be here sometime next week. Anxiously awaiting its arrival to try it out.

For Those-Not-In-The Know, see http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lock-Miter-Master-Jig-Set/productinfo/00-LMM

[Bill Huber]

Instructions are here: http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Lock%20Miter%20Master%20Manual.pdf

Mine was shipped on Friday, so it should be here sometime next week. Anxiously awaiting its arrival to try it out.

For Those-Not-In-The Know, see http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lock-Miter-Master-Jig-Set/productinfo/00-LMM

I have the PDF but I think they should just put it with them, they put a catalog with them.

But that is in no way a show stopper.

[Tony Rodoracio]

Thanks Bill. Good to hear it works as advertised. Just ordered mine.

[ed vitanovec]

Looks nice and I am sure your experience played a big part in a successful first cut.

[Bill Huber]

Looks nice and I am sure your experience played a big part in a successful first cut.

Not really, I worked with the locked miter 2 years ago and put it back in the drawer. I think anyone with a router table, router and bit could do the same thing on the first cut, it is that easy.

[Alan Schaffter]

Not really, I worked with the locked miter 2 years ago and put it back in the drawer. I think anyone with a router table, router and bit could do the same thing on the first cut, it is that easy.

Bill, until I came up with the LMM, my bit had been in the drawer for almost 10 years!! Thanks much for the first review!

Ray answered the question about the manual, but let me add this. Infinity is using the manual I wrote- I don't know if another one is forthcoming or not. At 14 pages and packed with diagrams, this PDF manual is as thorough as I could make it. The manual includes setups for all lock miter joints except for a special one I discovered after I wrote it- the "Double Offset Lock Miter" joint (see drawing below).

I also wrote a two page "quick reference guide", but I don't know the status of that. As you might expect, the cost of printing, binding, and extra shipping (due to the size and weight of a 13 page printed manual) could unnecessarily add to the cost of the jig. The beauty of an online manual is that it can be easily updated.

A couple other points:


Wrapped cursor lines- This one is not obvious until you closely examine the jig mounted to a bit-
Though harder and more costly to do on two surfaces, the vertical cursor lines could have wrapped the top edge of the jig. The horizontal lines are a different story. The LMM sits at an angle and is not parallel to the axis of the bit because the shear angle of the carbide cutting edge which differs from brand to brand. A line on the vertical edge would be at an angle and would not accurately indicate the true center of the profile.
When finding the center, did you measure the thickness and divide by 2 to mark the center of the board? That will work but is a harder and less accurate way to do it. Page 12 of the online manual shows a simple time-tested method using a marking gauge, but you can just as easily use a depth gauge, combination square, etc. and you don't need actual dimensions. Make two fine lines by registering the "measuring" device against each face. Adjust the device until only one line results when you make marks starting from each face- it usually takes me only 2 to 3 quick attempts. (see drawings)

Double Offset Lock Miter- leaves a rabbet that can be filled with a contrasting colored spline:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/Dual_Offset_Corner-rounded.jpg

Using a marking gauge to find the center:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/LMM_manual-20.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/LMM_manual-19.jpg

[Alan Lightstone]

Mine arrived on Friday. It was so small, I almost threw it out with the packaging (I had ordered something bigger in the same box). I also was surprised at no instructions. Glad I saw the link above.

Haven't used mine yet, as I'm hot and heavy in another project. Hopefully soon. I'll post back when I do.

[Bill Huber]

When finding the center, did you measure the thickness and divide by 2 to mark the center of the board?




No, I used my 6" combo square, work just as good as the marking gauge. The centers were spot on, it was the wood that was different and that is why the inside corner did not match, the outside was spot on.

i did go out to the shop last night and do some more with the same thickness of wood and they were fine. I even moved the bit and the fence just to screw it up and then reset it and it worked every time.

Thanks for another great tool in the shop.

[Jay Rasmussen]

Bill,
One of my favorite bits.
Jay

[Alan Schaffter]

No, I used my 6" combo square, work just as good as the marking gauge. The centers were spot on, it was the wood that was different and that is why the inside corner did not match, the outside was spot on.

i did go out to the shop last night and do some more with the same thickness of wood and they were fine. I even moved the bit and the fence just to screw it up and then reset it and it worked every time.

Thanks for another great tool in the shop.

Sounds great!

Yup, if you don't notice the thicknesses of the boards are different, you'll end up with a bad joint. That is something to be aware of when mixing 3/4" hardwood faceframes with ply sides- most "3/4"" ply is anything but 3/4"! It is great to get this kind of feedback. When you get a chance, try a joint using unequal stock purposely selected. Marking is just as easy since you only need to adjust the marking gauge/square to mark the center of the thinner board, then use the same setting to make a reference mark on the thicker board. You need to remember, this joint like the offset joint, takes two settings- one for the boards on each side of the joint. Some people object to the resulting offset on the inside of that joint, but in most cases it will never be seen and it sure beats the alternatives.

Other stuff:

Random Tip: Some folks add just a tiny smidge of offset (a fraction of the first mark) when making the setup. That leaves a small flat as opposed to a sharp point to ride against the fence/table. As long as you don't use too much offset it works well, especially if you plan to soften the corner a little, anyway.

Again, thanks for the kind words. Sometimes I come off sounding a bit like a braggert, but it is just the excitement of coming up with a useful tool that actually works. Initially it surprised even me that it worked so well. It was also fun discovering how it can be used for variations of the basic lock miter joint.

Corrections to the manual. If anyone feels that any part of the instructions need clarification or correction, just send me a PM so I can look at it and send Infinity a revision if needed. Thanks.

[Alan Schaffter]

Bill,
One of my favorite bits.
Jay

Jay, that is a beauty of a (tool?) cabinet!

Something to try someday. Instead of a drawer lock joint, use your lock miter bit to make the drawer box. By using an offset lock miter joint the drawer fronts (and backs) can be cut to fit the opening, but the miter line is "shifted" around the corner to the sides which makes it harder to see and leaves a more durable edge than if the miter line was at the corner. It is kinda like a half-blind lock miter. I made a few of these joints to to ensure the LMM worked as I thought it would, but have yet to make any drawers.

To eliminate the offset on the inside of the corner (just visible at bottom of the photo), the thickness of the sides needs to be reduced by the amount of offset on the front. Most drawers have thinner sides anyway. It works out very nicely if the front is 3/4" and a 1/4" offset is used (the LMM has four 1/16" offset reference marks)- the sides can then be a convenient and typical 1/2" thick (see SketchUp drawing.)

Drawing of a drawer box corner. 3/4" Walnut front, 1/4" offset, 1/2" poplar drawer side:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/Offset_LM.jpg

3/4" thick walnut drawer front, 3/4" thick poplar side, 1/8" offset:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/IMG_4470.JPG

[Larry Frank]

With such a good review and information, I am going to order one.

My favorite threads are one where someone has a success with something and writes a good review. It is extremely helpful.

Thanks

[Joe Adams]

I've had an Amana lock miter bit for years and hate to admit that after a few trials it's spent most of its life in a drawer.

In addition to time consuming process of getting a perfect set up, my understanding is that these bits are better suited to use in a shaper with a self feeder rather than a router table.

Has Infinity come up with a breakthrough that addresses both of these issues?

[Alan Schaffter]

I've had an Amana lock miter bit for years and hate to admit that after a few trials it's spent most of its life in a drawer.

In addition to time consuming process of getting a perfect set up, my understanding is that these bits are better suited to use in a shaper with a self feeder rather than a router table.

Has Infinity come up with a breakthrough that addresses both of these issues?

Well, the LMM will work just fine with lock miter shaper cutters! Unless you are using a very large cutter on large dense stock, a shaper can safely be used without a stock feeder. Stock feeders offer advantages typically not needed in hobby woodshops. In addition to safety, they offer the ability to feed stock securely and more quickly- two things needed in a production environment. Adapters are available so router bits can be used in a shaper, but they are really designed for shaper cutters not router bits. It is a function of cutter speed- routers and router bits are typically designed to operate at faster RPMs than possible on a shaper.

Although it can be a little intimidating at first like using any large diameter router bit, with the proper feather board(s) you'll have no problem. If you check out the Infinity Blog on Facebook you'll see it is easy and safe to make lock miter cuts in a single pass on a router table.

I had the same concerns when I started this journey but quickly discovered that just like with any woodworking machine you should be careful, but there is no need to be afraid.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I assume that the breakthrough is not the bit, but the setup guide....

http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lock-Miter-Master-Jig-Set/productinfo/00-LMM

http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Lock%20Miter%20Master%20Manual.pdf

No idea if the setup guide would work with your bit, but, off hand, it looks like this would take the setup from "trial and error while creeping up on the perfect fit" to finding the center point on the end of a board, then moving the bit up/down to align the center mark on the guide to the center mark on the board, and then adjusting the fence for the same effect.

Looks like someone had an "aha" moment and then produced something that makes all our lives easier (if you have the jig and a matching bit).

[Alan Schaffter]

I assume that the breakthrough is not the bit, but the setup guide....

http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lock-Miter-Master-Jig-Set/productinfo/00-LMM

http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Lock%20Miter%20Master%20Manual.pdf

No idea if the setup guide would work with your bit, but, off hand, it looks like this would take the setup from "trial and error while creeping up on the perfect fit" to finding the center point on the end of a board, then moving the bit up/down to align the center mark on the guide to the center mark on the board, and then adjusting the fence for the same effect.

Looks like someone had an "aha" moment and then produced something that makes all our lives easier (if you have the jig and a matching bit).

Correct- the Lock Miter Master is a setup guide for lock miter router bits.

You have it- just align the centerline mark on the stock with the jig's reference marks and you are ready to go. No trial and error, no sneaking up on the setup. Yup, it was an "Aha" moment that came after analysis of the geometry of lock miter bits.

It will work with almost* every lock miter router bit and shaper cutter. (* we haven't checked them all but are pretty confident)

[Chris Padilla]

Well mine arrived Thursday last week but I was busy and gone for the whole weekend but now I'm all excited to try it when I get home tonight.

One thing I've found with plywood is when you route the ply against the fence, it can tear out quite a bit of the plywood since the plies are perpendicular to the cut. I guess if the plywood manufacturer used good glue, it might hold up. I guess mine didn't. Maybe baltic birch would cut better?

[Joe Adams]

I'm about to order one but they are out of stock until June 14th.

It seems there was an unexpected run on them shortly after Bill started this thread.

Anyone else try it yet?

[Alan Schaffter]

Well mine arrived Thursday last week but I was busy and gone for the whole weekend but now I'm all excited to try it when I get home tonight.

One thing I've found with plywood is when you route the ply against the fence, it can tear out quite a bit of the plywood since the plies are perpendicular to the cut. I guess if the plywood manufacturer used good glue, it might hold up. I guess mine didn't. Maybe baltic birch would cut better?

Remember in good plywood, the orientation of the grain in each layer alternates so only half of the edge will have layers with grain perpendicular to the cut. Good hardwood ply shouldn't tear out much, especially if you use a slow and steady feed rate. A decent, sharp bit also helps. Even mediocre birch veneer ply from a big box store can be cut with minimal tear out if you are careful.

The birch plywood sides of this bookshelf are joined to the maple face frames and each other with lock miter joints. They came out ok.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/IMG_4439.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/IMG_4435.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/IMG_4434.JPG

[Bill Neely]

I use a Japanese style cutting gauge to eliminate tear out on plywood using a drawer lock bit - should work equally as well with the lock miter. Just do a short sample cut, then set the gauge and scribe the stock that will be cut cross grain. I'll be trying that lock miter as soon as the set-up gauge is back in stock.

[Dave Cav]

Well, I can’t get it to work with a Grizzly shaper cutter. I have gone through enough test pieces to fill up a five gallon bucket, and I can’t get it to make decent lock miters. They are always cut too deep. I have reviewed the PDF and YouTube instructions and have followed them to the letter, and nothing works. The stock is correctly oriented, and identical in thickness. My center marks are good. The jig snaps in place on the Grizzly cutter, but I am beginning to suspect the dimensions on the cutter are different than what is expected by the jig. All in all this is very frustrating considering the jig is supposed to work with any cutter, and I’m reluctant to spend over $80 for a new cutter.

[Mel Fulks]

We had a lengthy thread on this subject not long ago. Worth reading. I doubt there is much info available anywhere that is not in it. Reports on the new alignment tool have been good.

[Dave Cav]

Thanks; I found the thread and it gave me some things to look for and try, the first being to check the bit to see if the 45 degree faces are both being cut in the same plane. The Lee Valley setup procedure was useful as well.

[Dave Cav]

After reviewing this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?199866-Lock-Miter-issues and the Lee Valley instructions, and a good night's sleep, I gave it another try this morning. I refined my test procedure to make both test cuts on one end of a piece of test stock, then used the band saw to cut off and rip the test pieces apart to try the fit, which saved a lot of time and wood. I found that with my Grizzly cutter, the Infinity gauge got the height pretty close, but the fence offset needed to be moved out nearly one mark on the gauge. This got me in the ball park. By marking each test piece (flat or vertical) and confining my adjustments to one axis at a time, I was able to get pretty decent lock miters on several different pieces of stock after about three test cuts. Now I guess I can rip some full size test stock and see if I can make a table leg, as the whole point of this exercise is to make a set of cherry legs for a large dining room table.

[Alan Schaffter]

Dave, Sorry I didn't jump in earlier. I was traveling and currently out of the country. I'll alert David Venditto of INFINITY to your issue. Off hand, the only thing that comes to mind might be if your Grizzly shaper bit is very large (can handle stock 1.5" -2" thick) and/or has an unusually large male/female profile section that prevents the guage from seating properly. Regardless of the minor differences in the shape of the interlocking part of the bit profile- ALL lock miter bits/shaper cutters have the same geometry so a Lock Miter Master should work with them all.

As time permits I'll look in on this thread.

[Dave Cav]

Thanks, Alan, but I'm giving up on it. I was able to make one test leg 30" long with very mediocre joints, but I thought they might clean up with a little radius or bevel on the edge. Unfortunately some time after I clamped the leg up something happened and all of the joints slipped and opened up, so I have bagged the whole project and am going with conventional glued up legs for the table I'm building. I have spent WAY, WAY too much time and material on this to continue messing around with it any more, and the customer wants her table.

[Matt McColley]

Has anyone tried using the Amana jig with Lock Miter bits from other manufacturers?

I'm curious if it would still work well with slightly different bit geometry.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Amana or Infinity?

I read somewhere that the Infinity will work with any brand of Lock Miter bit.

[Alan Schaffter]

If you are talking about the Infinity Lock Miter Master, we haven't tried every bit in the world but it should work with any lock miter router bit. The shape of the male/female profile doesn't matter- all of them must have a center of geometry that is defined the same way in order to work- I designed the LMM master so it registers to the geometric center, no matter what profile.

As I said in the other thread, there is at least one lock miter shaper bit where the LMM is extremely hard to use (it will work, but frankly not worth the hassle) and that is where the plane of the carbide cutter is a chord and not a radius of the bit body. You'll find this situation more with large diameter shaper cutters than router bits. Here are the diagrams from my other thread that explain what I mean:

Carbide face is a radius:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/Shaper_New.jpg

Carbide face is a chord (is parallel to, but offset from the radius):

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/ShaperB-1.jpg

Did anyone see the great little review of the LMM on page 74 of the latest issue of Wood Magazine (Issue #232, May 2015)? It caught Infinity and me by surprise- but it was a good surprise. :)

[Chris Padilla]

Just read that last night, Alan. It was a very nice review. :)

[Hilton Ralphs]

Did anyone see the great little review of the LMM on page 74 of the latest issue of Wood Magazine (Issue #232, May 2015)?

Presactly why I went looking for them now and came upon this thread. Great job you've done Alan. I have a couple of Axminster bits but I reckon they should work? Sizes are 9mm to 13mm and 13mm to 25mm.

Confirm Alan?

Ta.

[Alan Schaffter]

I can't say for sure, but based on the photo of the Axcaliber lock miter bit on their website and if they meet the criteria for the carbide being a radius not a chord (see drawings above), the LMM should work just fine with it.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Thanks Alan.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Jay, that is a beauty of a (tool?) cabinet!

Something to try someday. Instead of a drawer lock joint, use your lock miter bit to make the drawer box. By using an offset lock miter joint the drawer fronts (and backs) can be cut to fit the opening, but the miter line is "shifted" around the corner to the sides which makes it harder to see and leaves a more durable edge than if the miter line was at the corner. It is kinda like a half-blind lock miter. I made a few of these joints to to ensure the LMM worked as I thought it would, but have yet to make any drawers.

To eliminate the offset on the inside of the corner (just visible at bottom of the photo), the thickness of the sides needs to be reduced by the amount of offset on the front. Most drawers have thinner sides anyway. It works out very nicely if the front is 3/4" and a 1/4" offset is used (the LMM has four 1/16" offset reference marks)- the sides can then be a convenient and typical 1/2" thick (see SketchUp drawing.)

Drawing of a drawer box corner. 3/4" Walnut front, 1/4" offset, 1/2" poplar drawer side:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/Offset_LM.jpg

3/4" thick walnut drawer front, 3/4" thick poplar side, 1/8" offset:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/IMG_4470.JPG

This is an interesting concept, though I do not that the Sketch-up drawing looks to be proper, while the actual photo shows that the joint has been cut backwards, and the "teeth" of the joint are misaligned to the force of the pull (assuming the walnut is the front of the drawer). Any feedback on how well it has held up? It would look like the glue is all that you are pulling against, rather than the mechanical advantage of the joint.

Doc

[Alan Schaffter]

This is an interesting concept, though I do not that the Sketch-up drawing looks to be proper, while the actual photo shows that the joint has been cut backwards, and the "teeth" of the joint are misaligned to the force of the pull (assuming the walnut is the front of the drawer). Any feedback on how well it has held up? It would look like the glue is all that you are pulling against, rather than the mechanical advantage of the joint.

Doc

You are right, the locking profile on the SketchUp drawing is reversed if you were to use the walnut as the drawer front. That being said, you can set it up however you want. Detailed instructions for the Lock Miter master, and for this and other "special" lock miter joints can be downloaded from the Infinity website. Other than many test joints, I have never made drawers or casework using the offset lock miter joint, but it is just another item in the arsenal.

[Hilton Ralphs]

The Sketchup drawing may be reversed but it's in the correct orientation. The actual joint photographed has no locking capability whatsoever and will have to rely on the extended glue-line for strength.

[Jay Jolliffe]

Do you have to use this with just Amana bit's or will it work with other brands?

[Hilton Ralphs]

Do you have to use this with just Amana bit's or will it work with other brands?

Where do you see any reference to Amana in this thread?

[Alan Schaffter]

The Sketchup drawing may be reversed but it's in the correct orientation. The actual joint photographed has no locking capability whatsoever and will have to rely on the extended glue-line for strength.

Again, you are assuming that the walnut is a drawer front. In the photo of the actual joint, the orientation of the walnut and joint were selected to show how you would add a walnut faceframe to a cabinet whose sides are made from secondary wood (or ply) and where you don't want the miter line to be located at the corner.

And yes, it is true in this case that you are only relying on the glue to hold the joint together. That is the only way to attach a faceframe with a lock miter bit. NO lock miter bit cuts a true "locking" joint. They do three things- (1) cut mating profiles that prevent movement of one piece away from the joint in one direction parallel to the face of the second piece (as in a drawer front), (2) keep the joint aligned and prevent it from slipping along the miter line during glue-up/clamping (pressure applied to the joint), and (3) depending on the profile of the particular bit, provide significantly more gluing surface beyond what is provided by a plain miter.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Again, you are assuming that the walnut is a drawer front.

Well yes of course. Or else that's a strange looking drawer you have there. Nuances aside, I agree with you about there being no true locking ability with this bit.

[Ellen Benkin]

I have to make lots of drawers this summer so I ordered one last weekend. It has been shipped. I have no idea why someone thought it was backordered. I'm looking forward to practicing with it. I have LOTS of scrap!

[Jay Jolliffe]

Your right Hilton...I read somewhere in this thread about an Amana bit but the OP stated Infinity lock miter gauge....who also make router bits...My mistake....So now I ask do you need to use an Infinity bit ?...

[Brett Luna]

Your right Hilton...I read somewhere in this thread about an Amana bit but the OP stated Infinity lock miter gauge....who also make router bits...My mistake....So now I ask do you need to use an Infinity bit ?...

I bought the bit/jig combo but in the product description, Infinity says "Works with most brands of locking miter router bit (we haven't tried them all)". You'll just need to buy the appropriate size for your bit.

[Hilton Ralphs]

So now I ask do you need to use an Infinity bit ?...

Sorry I was grumpy, a filling from one of my molars fell out and I hate going to the dentist.

Anyhoo, according to the literature, most bits will work with the jig because they all work on the principle of a center line. The carbide cutters need to be radiate out from the center of the bit and not in a 'chord' as demonstrated excellently by Alan a few posts back.

Just match the size parameters to your own bit.

[Hilton Ralphs]

So thanks to this thread, I went ahead and bought the Infinity jig. They had free shipping so I also purchased a spiral upcut 7/32 router bit to make shelf pin holes for the sleeves I bought from Lee Valley.

Anyway, I'm ashamed to say but I also have to present to myself the Idiot Award.

309648

Guess who didn't bother checking which type of Lock Miter Bit they had?

Yes, those Axminster bits I bought only have two cutting edges and the Carbide face is a chord to the shaft and not a Radius what Alan clearly states is required.

Ja well no so fine as we say here.

It's as real PITA to pay for international shipping for something you know isn't going to work.

[Keith Pleas]

It's as real PITA to pay for international shipping for something you know isn't going to work.
Or you could use this as an excuse to get another lock miter bit set. That's the glass half full perspective. ?

[Hilton Ralphs]

That's what I'll do Keith. Any recommendations on brand?

[Bill Huber]

I started out with a Freud lock miter bit and it just did not cut like I thought it should, I then got one form Infinity and it was a world of difference, cut much better then the Freud for some reason.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Bill is your Infinity bit one of those with two or three flutes? If two, is the carbide edge one of a chord or radius (as per Alan's diagram).

I ask because I've looked at CMT, Whiteside, MLCS, Katana, Freud, Grizzly, Lee Valley and Infinity and they all seem to have only two flutes but none show the bit viewed from the top.

[Alan Schaffter]

So thanks to this thread, I went ahead and bought the Infinity jig. They had free shipping so I also purchased a spiral upcut 7/32 router bit to make shelf pin holes for the sleeves I bought from Lee Valley.

Anyway, I'm ashamed to say but I also have to present to myself the Idiot Award.

309648

Guess who didn't bother checking which type of Lock Miter Bit they had?

Yes, those Axminster bits I bought only have two cutting edges and the Carbide face is a chord to the shaft and not a Radius what Alan clearly states is required.

Ja well no so fine as we say here.

It's as real PITA to pay for international shipping for something you know isn't going to work.




All is not lost! The Lock Miter Master will still get you half the way there! You can use it to set bit height accurately irrespective of the radius vs chord issue.

Setting the fence position will still be tough, however. The LMM can be used to get the fence in the ball park, but if you can visualize how the geometric center point moves as you rotate the bit, you'll see that the LMM's vertical cursor does not accurately indicate where to set the fence, so it is a toss up whether you use the LMM or trial and error to set the fence. To use LMM to set the fence, instead of aligning the carbide perpendicular to the fence, rotate the bit back and forth until you find the position of the bit where the cursor line on the LMM is closest to you- furthest from the fence (second illustration). Then, since the carbide is a chord, the carbide and LMM will NOT be perpendicular to the fence so you'll need to move the fence towards you a tad more (the second illustration shows what happens.) I found this is such an imprecise way to set the fence we did not include it in the manual. Frankly, if your carbide is a chord, I think it is quicker if you set the bit height using the LMM, then adjust the fence using a couple of short trial-and-error passes to get a sharp tip without removing any of the corner or leaving a blunt tip. See the last two illustrations- feed the board a short amount to observe if there is a gap. Adjust the fence towards you by the amount of the gap and make another short cut. Keep doing that until the offset is completely gone- view up close, use a straight edge, etc. to ensure there is absolutely no joggle! Remember, don't mess with the bit height- if you used the LMM carefully, the bit height should be spot on.

Bit (chord carbide) in normal (radius carbide) setting position- carbide is perpendicular to fence:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/ShaperB-1.jpg

Geometry screws up fence setting:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/ShaperB-2.jpg



Setting fence w/o the LMM. Adjust fence so tip is not blunt and there is no gap:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2580/medium/setting_fence.jpg


Make a very short cut, adjust the fence towards you, make another short cut- repeat until gap is gone (I exaggerated the gap):

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/setting_fence-2.jpg

[Bill Huber]

Bill is your Infinity bit one of those with two or three flutes? If two, is the carbide edge one of a chord or radius (as per Alan's diagram).

I ask because I've looked at CMT, Whiteside, MLCS, Katana, Freud, Grizzly, Lee Valley and Infinity and they all seem to have only two flutes but none show the bit viewed from the top.

I think in the diagram Alan is talking about shaper bits not router bits.

My bit only had 2 flutes and I don't think I have ever seen a router bit with 3, not saying there isn't one just I have never seen it.
This is my bits, I do have both but have only used the small one on 3/4" stock.

[Hilton Ralphs]

All is not lost! The Lock Miter Master will still get you half the way there! You can use it to set bit height accurately irrespective of the radius vs chord issue.


Thanks Alan! I will try this before I purchase any other bits. I have an INCRA fence so creeping up is easy and repeatable.

I will report back.

Thanks Bill for the feedback. I'll make a note about the Infinity bits if I need to get them.