DC filter cleaning question...

[Michael Dunn]

Hey guys!!!

So I've finally been able to do some serious wood working and put my newly installed whole shop DC system to the test. So far, I'm happy. Still waiting on my Shark Gaurd. Most of the DIY around the shop is from a lack of top TS collection. A bit from the jointer and planer too. In just an hour or so I filled and emptied my 31 gal trash can twice. Maybe I should get a 55 gal drum...

Anyway, my question is war towards what do I look for when its time to clean my filter? I think I'm noticing a lack of suction.

Time to clean my Wynn filter? If so, I guess it's time to address how difficult it'll be to remove and clean it. I had to mount it horizontally on my ceiling due to space restrictions.

[David Kumm]

I'd put a vacuum hose fitting and use a shop vac on a horizontal cartridge so when I clean with compressed air the dust doesn't settle back into the filter. 50-70 psi and don't get the air too close to the pleats. Wynn are surface loading so it doesn't take a lot to clean them. There are several threads on how to set up a gauge to measure the pressure drop and determine when to clean the filters. Dave

[Phil Thien]

You shouldn't notice filter loading after two 31-gallon cans.

Was the filter clean when you mounted it up on the ceiling?

Take it down and look to see how much dust is in the pleats.

[Michael Dunn]

You shouldn't notice filter loading after two 31-gallon cans.

Was the filter clean when you mounted it up on the ceiling?

Take it down and look to see how much dust is in the pleats.

It had never been used when I mounted it. I'm on my 3rd load of chips in the 31 gal can.

Any tips on what I can do to make cleaning easier?

[Michael Dunn]

I noticed something weird though, before the perceived performance drop. Once when I turned the DC on, I noticed a bunch of large chips flowing from the DC into the filter. What could cause that?

[Phil Thien]

I noticed something weird though, before the perceived performance drop. Once when I turned the DC on, I noticed a bunch of large chips flowing from the DC into the filter. What could cause that?

A leak in your garbage can, or the fittings/top of the can. There can be NO leaks there.

Or maybe you overfilled the unit, chips didn't have anywhere to go, so they went into your filter?

[Michael Dunn]

A leak in your garbage can, or the fittings/top of the can. There can be NO leaks there.

Or maybe you overfilled the unit, chips didn't have anywhere to go, so they went into your filter?

I did overfill it once today. It was backed up into the hose from the bottom of the cyclone.

Time for me to design an overfill shutoff circuit.

[Michael Dunn]

A leak in your garbage can, or the fittings/top of the can. There can be NO leaks there.

Or maybe you overfilled the unit, chips didn't have anywhere to go, so they went into your filter?

I don't think I have a leak in the can. The lid is dang near impossible to open if the DC is on. That's good, right?

[Phil Thien]

I don't think I have a leak in the can. The lid is dang near impossible to open if the DC is on. That's good, right?

That's good, but it doesn't mean you don't have a leak somewhere.

[David Kumm]

Once you plug the hose from the cyclone to the bin the chips go directly to the filters. You need to take the filters off and dump them out and then spray compressed air from outside in - not inside the cartridge. Dave

[Joseph Tarantino]

......Time for me to design an overfill shutoff circuit......

that would be a very useful accessory.

[Michael Dunn]

That's good, but it doesn't mean you don't have a leak somewhere.

Could it be possible that my air straighteners have failed? My suction has dropped dramatically. I've been so busy I haven't had a hence to try any of the suggestions here. I'm about to start another project and I think I may try to address this now as the sawdust in my shop is out of control now.

[Phil Thien]

Could it be possible that my air straighteners have failed? My suction has dropped dramatically. I've been so busy I haven't had a hence to try any of the suggestions here. I'm about to start another project and I think I may try to address this now as the sawdust in my shop is out of control now.

You will have to inspect them, I guess. It means at least a trip or two up the ladder, I think.

[Michael Dunn]

You will have to inspect them, I guess. It means at least a trip or two up the ladder, I think.

I have to redesign this for easier accessibility. As of right now I have 1" between the top of my DC motor and the ceiling. This makes it INCREDIBLY difficult to remove and install. Common sense would say to lower the entire DC/cyclone assembly. Well, as of right now I can't. The cyclone inlet is lightly resting on the top of a storage cabinet. There is a 3/4" piece of trim at the top I can cut away to give me a bit more room to drop the assembly. I'll check the filter first as I think that will be less difficult.

Do you think adding a sealed door of some sort to blocked end of the filter would be wise? This could greatly simplify my filter inspection process.

What about using something like plexi glass or polycarbonate?

I just remembered I used contact cement to hold the blocked end of the filter on. So I'll have to go through the inlet side for cleaning purposes. I also epoxied the 6" SD2729 pipe to the inlet for a good seal.

I'll check the filter now from the inlet side and post my findings in a bit.

[Jonathan Clement]

When we got our nano filter from Wynn back in March of this year I asked Dick Wynn how to clean it. He said to leave it in place and vacuum any dust on the outside with a shop vac and blow compressed air from the outside through the filter; no more than 80 lb PSI, except for the Spun Bond which can handle 100 lb PSI. I haven't had the need to clean ours yet.

[Michael Dunn]

I just opened up the inlet and a large amount of chips fell out.


What could have caused this? I remember this happened once when I started up my DC. A large amount of chips when shooting from the DC exhaust into the filter. I guess his musts been when I overfilled my trash can below the cyclone.

Is this what happens?

[Michael Dunn]

Well... At least I know what caused the loss of suction. Also, taking off the inlet and removing the filter from the ceiling was quite easy. Very pleased with that. Here's a pic of how bad the filter was loaded.

It is literally half way filled length wise. I even vacuumed some before the pic. Then I decided to dump it in a trash bag, then vacuum, then use compressed air.

[Phil Thien]

Either a leak between the bottom of the cyclone, and the can, or you overfilled like a son of a gun.

Small (tiny) leaks can cause problems because incoming air from the can will lift debris (like chips) up into the filter.

[Michael Dunn]

Problem solved. I cleaned the filter. Suction is back to an impressive level. I guess I need to design an overfill protect circuit.

I'll still seal the rim of the trash can with some weather stripping.

Thanx guys!!!

[Mike Goetzke]

I was careful to watch the bin on my cyclone but stuffed the filters on one occasion - took good 30-45 min. to clean. I then bought a bin level sensor (Binometer?) that measures frequency in a rod that sticks in the dust bin. I filled the filters two more times with this meter. Problem is not all shavings are the same density. Finally I bought a device from a guy at ClearVue that uses a garage door safety beam and electronics to detect dust in the clear hose between the cyclone and bin. I built a full set of kitchen cabinets using rough sawn lumber with this sensor and never had a problem. Great thing about it is the bin is always full when it alarms (not 50% or 75% or 110% like some other methods). You can even have the system cut the power to the cyclone when full if you wish.

(we must be almost neighbors - I live just north of the mall)

Mike

[Michael Dunn]

I was careful to watch the bin on my cyclone but stuffed the filters on one occasion - took good 30-45 min. to clean. I then bought a bin level sensor (Binometer?) that measures frequency in a rod that sticks in the dust bin. I filled the filters two more times with this meter. Problem is not all shavings are the same density. Finally I bought a device from a guy at ClearVue that uses a garage door safety beam and electronics to detect dust in the clear hose between the cyclone and bin. I built a full set of kitchen cabinets using rough sawn lumber with this sensor and never had a problem. Great thing about it is the bin is always full when it alarms (not 50% or 75% or 110% like some other methods). You can even have the system cut the power to the cyclone when full if you wish.

(we must be almost neighbors - I live just north of the mall)

Mike

Cool. I'll check those out.

Do you mean Orland Square mall? If so, that's cool. We should hang out and talk shop stuff some time.

[Robert Payne]

Sealing the dust bin under a cyclone is critically important to insure that dust and chips fall into the bin and are not re-entrained in the air flowing up into the blower and out to your filter bank. I make an economical bin level sensor system that several members here have used with success to avoid the very problem you are encountering. It can be operated as an alarm only (both visual and audible) or can be interconnected to the typical cyclone controls. PM me for details.

[Mike Goetzke]

Sealing the dust bin under a cyclone is critically important to insure that dust and chips fall into the bin and are not re-entrained in the air flowing up into the blower and out to your filter bank. I make an economical bin level sensor system that several members here have used with success to avoid the very problem you are encountering. It can be operated as an alarm only (both visual and audible) or can be interconnected to the typical cyclone controls. PM me for details.

Michael - this is the one I purchased.


Mike

[Ole Anderson]

I cleaned my Oneida filter with compressed air from the outside as recommended and reduced my filter loss by half. I then removed it and blew it out with a leaf blower, seemingly removing a lot more dust as evidenced by the large cloud generated. I didn't notice much more gain in efficiency by that move, but it made me feel better that it was a clean as it was going to get.

[Michael Dunn]

I cleaned my Oneida filter with compressed air from the outside as recommended and reduced my filter loss by half. I then removed it and blew it out with a leaf blower, seemingly removing a lot more dust as evidenced by the large cloud generated. I didn't notice much more gain in efficiency by that move, but it made me feel better that it was a clean as it was going to get.

I would be very cautious using a leaf blower on a pleated filter. I'm told that most should be cleaned with a max of 80 PSI.

[Michael Dunn]

Here's some pics of my canister and connecting hose all sealed up. I ran some caulk down the seams of the trash can as well as the junction of the can to the hose, and the cyclone to the hose. Them I taped all the caulked joints.

Finally I put some 1/2"x3/4" adhesive weather stripping around the rim of the trash can and taped that also.

[John Lanciani]

I would be very cautious using a leaf blower on a pleated filter. I'm told that most should be cleaned with a max of 80 PSI.

I too use a leaf blower, it's high volume & low pressure just like a dust collector. Safe and effective.

[Jim Andrew]

I just ordered a new filter for my 2hp cyclone, Wynn recommended a 9L300 nano filter and he advised me to replumb my filter and hang a plastic bag from the bottom to catch the dust and chips that find their way through. That would help a bunch in case of running the system over. Especially if it is hanging where you can see it while working.