PDA

View Full Version : Larger Harbor Freight Impeller



Vaughn Kaloust
05-17-2013, 5:57 PM
WARNING! This mod was only done because my shop is above 5,000 feet in altitude. I am trying to get the same type of performance that others get closer to sea level. I would guess that making this modification to the same dust collector operating at sea level might overload the motor.

After starting this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?197861-How-to-measure-dust-collector-performance, trying to get help understanding my dust collection, I finally came to the conclusion that the cause of my disappointment with my system was because of altitude. The members who responded, who have much more experience than I will ever have, led me through a series of test which led to the theory that my HF 2 hp dust collector needed a bigger impeller.

Here were the main points:

1) I didn’t believe that my unit was performing as well as others were reporting their HF units were.

2) My ducting is short, sweet, well designed with 6 x 6” gates connected to one 15’ length of 6” duct, and then directly to my machines which are all in a row along that 15’.

3) Removing all of the above, and also disconnecting the exhaust side of the system so I was only testing the blower and motor, I was only able to achieve a SP of 6” WC connected directly to the inlet (no airflow).

4) With a full load, my motor was only drawing 8.5 amps. This was with a completely open inlet and outlet. When hooked back up to the manometer to the inlet, (no airflow), the motor pulled about 7.2 amps. This indicated that the motor was really barely under any stress and was effectively being under worked.

The decission:

Because of the thinner air at 5,000 foot altitude, the unit needed a bigger impeller to achieve enough air movement to effectively collect dust. I should mention that I am not talking about fine dust collection, but rather getting the big stuff from my table saw, band saw, etc.

The fan housing appeared to be able to accept a larger impeller, and the motor should be able to spin a larger impeller too.

So, taking all this into account, I decided to try a larger impeller. But although others suggested a few different units in the 12” range, such as Rikon, and Grizzly, I used something different.

The Grizzly unit that one person tried failed because it was too big and heavy. The circuit breaker could not bring the unit up to speed before tripping. I tried to get one from Rikon, but they insisted on having the serial number of my unit to sell me one.

I took a chance and ordered a Jet 12” steel impeller, part # AB411059. I didn’t know much about it at all, but I was tired of not finding an answer to my problem.

What I used:

262485

As you can see, the unit is much bigger. It measures exactly 12”, and I am very thankful that that’s all it was because any bigger, and I wouldn't have been able to get it into the housing. It seemed well made, and although heavier that the stock one, it seemed only slightly heavier, and I thought it should work fine.

It also had 6 blades, as opposed to the 7 that was on the original. I had no idea what effect this might have on the performance.

You can also see that the blades are curved in the exact same way as the stock HF blades. I didn't know this in advance, and it just turned out that way. I wasn't sure if this was good or bad, because many have said that the unit would operate better if the blades were curved the opposite direction. It seems that HF is one of the only units that use this configuration. I may test this later by trying to reverse the direction of motor. Well, maybe?

So, when placing the new impeller in the unit, it turns out that the shaft on the motor is 20 mm but the new fan was ¾” or 19mm. I had to remove the hub on the new fan, and turn it on my mini lathe to enlarge it a little to 20 mm. No problem, it went fast, and I think I could have even done the same by using a dowel and some sandpaper.

The key was only slightly too big, so I hit that on my belt sander to get to final fit.

Now, I am not kidding, this new fan was a tight fit and I doubt that any larger impeller, whether blade length or width (a little over 3”), would have worked. I had to really maneuver the fan to get it on the shaft.

These are two pictures of the before and after, and you can see the overall fit is tight, although the picture on the right gives the illusion that there is more room than there actually is.

262486262487

Results:

I can't lie, I was pretty scared to fire this thing up. Thank goodness I have a remote, and could stand around the corner of my shop to protect myself from shrapnel. I had the inlet completely blocked to reduce the load on start-up. I got around the corner, and hit the button on my remote.

The unit started with a very slow, but continuous increase in RPM. It took about twice as long for it to wind up as the stock unit did. It was a little louder, but at a lower pitch than stock. It sounded like comparing a V-8 to a V-6 with a lower, more powerful sound.

It also took a full minute for the fan to stop after I shut it down. I didn't time the original one, but I bet this one takes twice, or even three times as long to wind down. Without doing a single test, I suspected that this mod may have worked as I hoped.

I ran it for quite a while, both loaded and un-loaded before doing any test, but I could already tell this thing was moving a lot more air.


Original Impeller:

Static Pressure = 6” WC (no air flow)
Un-loaded Amps = 7.2
Fully Loaded Amps = 8.5
Un-scientific Test = This thing kinda sucks.

New Impeller:

Static Pressure = 9” WC (no airflow)
Un-loaded Amps = 8.5
Fully Loaded Amps = 10.2
Un-scientific Test = This thing REALLY SUCKS!

After the test, I hooked everything back up. All ducting, the Thien separator, and exhaust bag, connected again. My table saw is the furthest tool from the dust collector, and also one of the worst tools to collect from. I opened the TS gate, and turned the collector on. There was quite a bit of noise as the collector seemed to be sucking the dust from the saw, so I shut it down and opened the access door for the saw.

WOW! I had never seen the cabinet so clean, unless I used my shop-vac to clean it.

I turned it back on to watch what was happening under the saw. There was a huge difference in the sound, and in the turbulence in the cabinet, plus almost all of the sawdust was being collected. Now I suspect that many of you have seen this with your dust collection systems, but for me, this was a first.

Now, this is all premature because I just finished the test a few weeks ago, and have not had significant amount of time with this set-up in use, but my initial excitement was so high, that I had to post this.

Your results could vary, and if you have a bad experience, forget I wrote this!

Also, keep in mind that in my opinion, I am just achieving with the Harbor Freight unit what those of you at lower altitude probably already experience. I am not trying to hot rod the unit to perform like a 5 hp cyclone.

Another member, Roger Rayburn who is also located at a similar altitude, has done the same mod based on my results. I can tell you I was a little afraid that this might go south for him, and it would be because he followed my lead. Luckily, he is well aware that I don't know much about any of this stuff. Hopefully he will join in on this post and give his results and impressions.

Anyway, very happy with the initial performance and want to thank all of the members who helped me make these improvements.

Bryan Rocker
05-17-2013, 8:38 PM
Very interesting, I would be interested in what the actual measurement of the original impeller was. As I was looking at the impeller's it comes to mind that the design could be improved upon quite a bit. I would be interested to hear how this works for you after you have put it through its paces....

Erik King
05-17-2013, 8:54 PM
What was the cost of the new impeller?

Vaughn Kaloust
05-17-2013, 9:28 PM
The original impeller was 10", with 7 blades.

The new Jet impeller cost about $80, and was about $105 including shipping.

Jim Andrew
05-17-2013, 10:57 PM
This is an interesting thread. When you said you enlarged the hole on your mini lathe, is that a metal lathe? Or did you fasten it to the faceplate on a wood lathe? I can see others buying bigger impellers to improve the performance of their dust collectors. Makes me think about finding a 15" for my 2hp cyclone. But I never measured the impeller when I installed it, maybe it is smaller than advertised as well. Think the HF is advertised as a 12", but actually is just a 10" in a bigger cabinet.

John Gustafson
05-17-2013, 10:58 PM
Vaughn;

The slow speed up and run down would be expected. The mass moment of inertia goes up with the weight and the square of the radius so from the geometry alone you are adding about 40% to the load on the motor during spin up. I suspect that HF left that clearance in there in the event a larger chunk might come down the pipe. With a thein separator that should be less of a concern. Interesting mod.

David Kumm
05-18-2013, 12:33 AM
Keep in mind that there is a relationship between the impeller size and the diameter of the housing as well so increasing the impeller in the same housing only works up to a point. The altitude differential is 1.2-1.25 so when increasing the impeller at low altitude or when venting outside you really have to watch the amp draw. Preferably the fins would be curved the opposite way from the HF ones so keep that in mind if replacing. Dave

Vaughn Kaloust
05-18-2013, 12:44 AM
John;

Yes, I knew that the delayed spin up and spin down were because of the additional mass of the fan, and it reacted exactly as hoped for. And you are correct that my separator gives me considerable assurance that no large chunks will hit the fan. Also, the HF comes standard with a grate at the inlet to the housing, so that also keeps the big bits away from the blades.

Jim;

That was a metal lathe (mini), but I am pretty sure I could have enlarged the hole by other means. It is only going from 19 mm to 20 mm, so a dowel and sandpaper might work just fine. The hub can be removed from the fan, and is about 2.5-3" dia. This was easy to chuck on to my mini metal lathe.

As to doing mods like this to other units, please remember that at my altitude of 5,000'+, my motor wasn't working very hard at all. With the mod, I suspect that I have increased the load by 20-30%. Although this is holding well for me, doing a similar mod to a unit at sea level might completely overload the motor/circuit. So, take this into account when considering a similar mod.

Also, if anyone does do this HF mod at an altitude closer to sea level, please let us know your results as there are many people who seem to be interested in these HF dust collectors.

Dave;

Good points, and everyone should remember that I did this on a wing and a prayer. There was very little analysis on this, and it was based on some very simple logic on my part. There are many well informed people here on SMC that helped me arrive at the conclusion that I could use a bigger fan.

Roger Rayburn
05-18-2013, 1:52 AM
Vaughn and I talked just after he installed his new impeller. After hearing his results I ordered mine, got it bored out and installed. The original impeller was 9 3/4 inches in Diameter, the new one is 11 3/4 inches in diameter. I have been impressed with the results. I'm going to insert here that Vaughn is a little above 5000 feet. I'm closer to 7,000 feet so that difference may explain some of our differences in measurement and results. My original current draw was about 12 amps during ramp-up and it settled out at about 9. 5 amps. With the new impeller installed the current during ramp up is about 14.5 amps and it settles out at about 10. 4 amps. The static pressure (measured at the 5 inch opening into the impeller cavity) improved from 3 inch water column (or 6, depending on how you measure it), to 4 3/4 (or 9 1/2). Vaughn is using a Thein baffle, I am using a trash can separator from Woodcraft. Mine does not clean out my table saw hood as well as Vaughn's, but I do see a difference, less sawdust escapes through the slot where the elevation hand wheel moves when tilting the blade. The real difference I see is in my router table bucket. It only uses a 2 1/2 inch port and it cleans it out in good fashion. I may see more improvement once I get real duct work installed. My current set up is a 10 foot clear spiraled wire flexible hose that I move machine to machine. I am completely satisfied with the results. The most significant improvement is that the collector is louder and therefore I never forget to put my mickey mouse ears on before I fire it up.

David Kumm
05-18-2013, 10:23 AM
Some of those housings can be reversed. If so it would be a great experiment to do so and measure the cfm with the blades curved the other way. They should deliver more at higher SP and less at lower but i've never done a real comparison to measure. Dave

Vaughn Kaloust
05-18-2013, 2:35 PM
I also have considered reversing the rotation of the fan. Unfortunately, the HF housing is not one that can be easily reversed. However, you could accomplish the same thing by reversing the direction that the motor runs. I don't know if this is possible on this motor, but it would be great to try.

The one thing that would have to be addressed if that were attempted, is the retaining washer screw on the end of the shaft would need to be modified. It is used to hold the impeller onto the shaft, and is a left hand thread so that the rotation always attempts to tighten the screw. If the motor were reversed, the screw, and threads in the end of the shaft, would need to be changed to right hand threads or the impeller would certainly come right off. Big Bang! :eek:

Alan Bienlein
05-18-2013, 2:54 PM
I also have considered reversing the rotation of the fan. Unfortunately, the HF housing is not one that can be easily reversed. However, you could accomplish the same thing by reversing the direction that the motor runs. I don't know if this is possible on this motor, but it would be great to try.

The one thing that would have to be addressed if that were attempted, is the retaining washer screw on the end of the shaft would need to be modified. It is used to hold the impeller onto the shaft, and is a left hand thread so that the rotation always attempts to tighten the screw. If the motor were reversed, the screw, and threads in the end of the shaft, would need to be changed to right hand threads or the impeller would certainly come right off. Big Bang! :eek:

Why can't it be reversed? My motor actually mounts to the plate that you have to remove on yours to access the impeller. Just drill mounting holes in that plate and a hole for the shaft. Mount the motor to the plate and then install the impeller on the shaft. The only thing that could possibly stop you from doing this is if the motor isn't reversible. As for the nut coming loose you could drill and put a cotter pin.

David Kumm
05-18-2013, 3:03 PM
You can't reverse the impeller without reversing the housing as the flow is directional. The threaded end is a problem. Not really a good way to attach an impeller. You would need to put a key and a set screw in it. Dave

Bryan Rocker
05-18-2013, 3:12 PM
Just one quick comment on the relationship between the impeller and the housing, for centrifugal jet engine, the clearances between the impeller and the housing are down into the 0.020" or tighter. After building jet engines all of my adult life I still think the current dust collectors are of a poor and very inefficient design. When you consider that the typical centrifugal jet engine operates at round 42K rpm.......I am really surprised that these impellers aren't made of of a lighter material such has an aluminum alloy.....

Vaughn Kaloust
05-18-2013, 4:45 PM
A few more things.

It would be difficult to reverse the housing because the plate that you gain access to the impeller also has the intake from the ducting. The rest of the housing is one piece. To reverse the housing, you would have to remove the intake, fill the hole in with another plate which would have the mounting pattern for the motor. You would then need to make an intake to go where the motor mount is located now. Seems like way too much work for me.

Reversing the motor would be much easier.

The impeller and shaft is already keyed, and adding a set screw would certainly be a viable option.

The reason to test reversing the direction of the impeller in the case of the HF, is that they appear to one of the only systems that use this configuration. Because of this, some have suggested that if the HF had a more conventional curving of the blades, or even straight blades, it might improve its performance.

I am pretty darn happy with the larger impeller, and the blades are swept in the same direction as the original, so I doubt I will ever attempt to reverse the direction.

Jim Neeley
05-18-2013, 4:48 PM
Bryan,

The jet engines you built weren't designed to swallow blocks of wood, screws and other things that might be inhaled by a DC, so it's a tradeoff. I do agree that the manufacturers have probably gone overboard, trading efficiency to ensure they aren't getting warranty repairs due to damaged impellers on a regular basis.

Curt Harms
05-19-2013, 8:22 AM
An aspect of dust collection I'd never considered until Vaughn's post is the effect of altitude. Atmospheric pressure/density decreases faster than we flatlanders realize.

Roger Rayburn
05-19-2013, 7:39 PM
I am having a difficult time comprehending the idea of reversing the motor rotation. It seems to me that reversing the rotation is counter productive unless you also reverse the "directionality" of the output port. As it sits, the air moves clockwise and exits with the port in the path of the air. If the motor rotates counter-clockwise, the air is moving counter-clockwise and has to reverse course 180 degrees in order to get out of the box. I suppose an argument could be made for a mod that would only require a 90 degree change in direction, but I simply don't understand, and I want to understand. Could someone who advocates that concept explain to me how that would work?

Michael W. Clark
05-20-2013, 3:22 PM
You have to do both, swap sides with the fan and wheel, and spin the motor the opposite way.