Work Bench/Outfeed Table and Formica

[Mark W Pugh]

OK, I'm going to construct and outfeed table, for my TS, and add a countertop type top. Using MDF, laminate, and cherry edge banding (just because I have a bunch of scrap).

Questions.

1. How do I drill 3/4" holes through the laminate surface without chipping it?

2. How do I cut miter slot extensions without chipping the laminate?

3. With the miter slot extensions cut, what would you finish them with to avoid future problems with the exposed MDF?

Thanks

4. Oh, one more question, how long would you cut the miter slot extensions?

[Chris Fournier]

Drill your holes and dado your mitre slots before adding the laminate. Once laminated drill a small pilot hole through the laminate from the back, say 1/16". Then drill a 3/8" hole from the front and use a 1/4" flush trim bit to route the laminate to the holes and mitre slots. No chipping. The mitre slots you can just attack from the face without drilling of course. Very clean outcome.

[Mark W Pugh]

Drill your holes and dado your mitre slots before adding the laminate. Once laminated drill a small pilot hole through the laminate from the back, say 1/16". Then drill a 3/8" hole from the front and use a 1/4" flush trim bit to route the laminate to the holes and mitre slots. No chipping. The mitre slots you can just attack from the face without drilling of course. Very clean outcome.

Perfect!!!

[Jamie Buxton]

If your miter slots are 3/8" deep, I'm not sure that a flush trim bit will work. Below the cutting edges, there's a little gap, then there's the bearing, then there's the screw head. That may add up to more than 3/8". Another way to cut the miter slots is to attach the formica first, then cut the slots with a router and a straightedge. There will be no chipping. You might even add the edgebanding before you router the miter slots, so everything lines up.

There's no need to put finish on the exposed MDF unless you're planning on getting water in the slots. If you're going to do that, use plywood.

[Art Mann]

I concur with Jamie.

[John W Johnson]

Perfect!!!

I just finished a shopmade Festool MFT knockoff and used Chris' method. It worked great. I had slight chip out on three of 150 holes in the Formica, and at least two of the three were operator error due to fatigue.

[Michael Dunn]

OK, I'm going to construct and outfeed table, for my TS, and add a countertop type top. Using MDF, laminate, and cherry edge banding (just because I have a bunch of scrap).

Questions.

1. How do I drill 3/4" holes through the laminate surface without chipping it?

2. How do I cut miter slot extensions without chipping the laminate?

3. With the miter slot extensions cut, what would you finish them with to avoid future problems with the exposed MDF?

Thanks

4. Oh, one more question, how long would you cut the miter slot extensions?

Sharp forstner bit. I chamfer with the router after.

[Chris Fournier]

If your miter slots are 3/8" deep, I'm not sure that a flush trim bit will work. Below the cutting edges, there's a little gap, then there's the bearing, then there's the screw head. That may add up to more than 3/8". Another way to cut the miter slots is to attach the formica first, then cut the slots with a router and a straightedge. There will be no chipping. You might even add the edgebanding before you router the miter slots, so everything lines up.

There's no need to put finish on the exposed MDF unless you're planning on getting water in the slots. If you're going to do that, use plywood.

I've done this with the bits that I have in my shop. If you lack clearance simply grind the cap head socket screw that fastens the guide bearing or dado a bit deeper.

[Mark W Pugh]

....... dado a bit deeper.

This was my original plan. I could not see why having the out feed table's miter slot "exactly" the same depth as the table saw's. Any reason it needs to be?? I figured the object would already be cut through before you had to support anything in the miter slots on the out feed table. I'm sure I'm missing something here.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would probably tape the laminate to help prevent chipping. As to issues with routing your slots, the bit you are looking for is a dado clean out bit, which is a very short, bottom cutting and top bearing bit.

Doc

[Ole Anderson]

I cut my dadoes later with a 1/2" straight bit, no chipping. I clamped a router base guide to the table to insure I didn't wander outside of the cut lines. And I only cut them long enough to accommodate my sled's runners. But I like the idea of cutting the dadoes first and then laminating. I would just use a solid 1/4" carbide laminate trim bit, no bearing to worry about. Don't worry about getting them exactly in line with the TS slot, make them slightly wider, your CI TS slots will provide all the directional support needed for your miter gauge or sled runners. Now if your edge trim is laminate like on my router table, all bets are off with regard to chipping and tear out. Don't ask how I know...

[John R Green]

I used solid core exterior doors - 1 3/4" - for table saw outfeed table
Interior of door was particle bore
Figured out where slots would go and "let in" a scrap 1x2 walnut
Laminated top
Routed the slots and all you see is walnut

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