Hand Application of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

[Bob Deroeck]

I'm going to be applying Waterlox original sealer/finish to a cherry vanity by hand. What recommendations do you have for putting down the Waterlox? Foam brush, natural bristle brush, wiping or some other method? If wiping, please provide your suggested technique.

Thanks.

Bob

[David Hawxhurst]

my preferred method is to wipe it on with rags/pads. i tried the foam brush but you need a new one for each coat. i've tried the bristle brush and liked it better, provided you get a nice brush and perform the required maintenance/up keep. with proper care the brush will last quite along time. the rags/pad will require more coats as it lays down a thinner layer than most the other methods. i can usually wipe on two to three coats in a day, which would be roughly the same as one brushed on coat.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have used cheap foam brushes and all sorts of regular brushes. My primary "weapon" of choice, however, is a nice brush. Just be sure to clean the brush well, because it is very difficult to clean it after the stuff dries (Used "xylene" if my memory serves me correctly).

[Scott Holmes]

Conditioning the BRUSH is important... Here's a video I did for American Woodworker Magazine a couple of years ago...

Brush care 101

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZW8d...ature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZW8dqI2zb8&feature=youtu.be)

[Bob Wingard]

I've had good results using ultra thin coats .. (70% VM&P Naptha : 30% Waterlox) .. REALLY slop on the first few coats, wiping back after several minutes of soaking .. then, wiped on without wiping back to get faster build. Three to four coats in a day (in good conditions) is pretty typical, so my finishing "schedule" usually takes from 3-5 days, depending on the look I want.

Those first "soaker" coats really go a long way towards filling up the pores and stopping both air bubbles and bleeding back of the finish.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Brush care 101Excellent tutorial.
IMHO - should be stickied at the top of this forum since it's so important.

[John W Johnson]

Conditioning the BRUSH is important... Here's a video I did for American Woodworker Magazine a couple of years ago...

Brush care 101

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZW8d...ature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZW8dqI2zb8&feature=youtu.be)


Fabulous tutorial. I'm ashamed to say I knew much of that already, but only complete the process about half the time. I do need to add a third jar of mineral spirits, the citrus cleaner, and a pan dedicated to varnish. Thank you.

[Frederick Skelly]

Great video! I learned several things. Thanks.

[Pat Barry]

Scott - this is an excellent video. I wish a moderator would sticky it to the top of this forum.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Conditioning the BRUSH is important... Here's a video I did for American Woodworker Magazine a couple of years ago...

Brush care 101

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZW8d...ature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZW8dqI2zb8&feature=youtu.be)

It is exactly that video that has allowed me to reuse my brushes (and it is the reason that I bothered to spend the money on a couple of nice brushes). Sadly, I was sloppy one day, but some more advice from you to another creeker provided me the information I needed to remove the contamination and the brush again works great. In other words, you have greatly improved my finishing....

[Pat Barry]

Thank you Chris for posting Scott's video as a Sticky!

[Art Mann]

Thank you Scott Holmes! This is an example of forum information sharing at its best.