David Wadstrup
05-11-2013, 7:24 PM
Hello,
I'm relatively new to woodworking, and up until now, have done all of my grinding and honing on Japanese Sigma Power ceramic stones(I am a hand tool guy whose "wood shop" is in his apartment's living room.) They work fast and I really, really like them. Honing is fun and easy. Grinding, however, is another story. I have a few of the coarser stones for re-grinding -- a 120, 240, and 400 grit -- that do cut fast(ish) and are pretty resistant to dishing. I've been able to fully regrind chisels and smaller plane blades without too much trouble. I can't say that I enjoy the experience, but given that I do all of this in my living space, I've been reluctant to introduce a powered form of grinding. Today, however, I needed to regrind the primary bevel on one of my 2.25" A2 bevel up plane blades. After about an hour's worth of work(no exaggeration!), I gave up. It was just too much metal to remove by hand, requiring multiple, labor intensive, messy re-flattenings of the stone throughout the process. NOT FUN.
So, I've decided I need to invest in a bench top grinder. I've done quite a bit of research on the differences between dry and wet grinders and bench top sanders, and the dry seems to be the one that would suit me best -- I'll likely continue to regrind chisels and smaller cutting tools by hand, and use the grinder only for the heavier plane blades and severely chipped edge tools. Specifically, the custom tuned Baldor offered by Tools For Working Wood (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-BALD.XX/Search/baldor/Gramercy_Custom_Tuned_Baldor_Bench_Grinders). I have 2 questions regarding this purchase:
1. Should I buy the slow or fast speed?
I've read that quenching a tool is best avoided -- it can leave invisible(but damaging and edge weakening) fractures in the tool's edge. Not letting the tool get hot enough to require quenching, or to overheat it, seems to me the best approach(or using a metal heat sink(magnets?).) Obviously, the faster grinder runs hotter. But, it grinds more quickly. What is the relationship between heat and metal removed? The slow grinder will, used long enough, overheat the tool if not ground with caution. And since it will take longer to grind because of its slower speed, might heat up the the steel at a similar ratio(to metal removed) to the faster cutting fast grinder. Does this make sense? What would you buy?
2. Is using a tool like this in a living room, albeit very occasionally, just plain stupid? Fumes and sparks and safety-wise?
I'd really appreciate any advice anyone has to offer. Thanks for your help.
David
PS If you want to talk me into a wet grinder or bench top sander I'm all ears.
I'm relatively new to woodworking, and up until now, have done all of my grinding and honing on Japanese Sigma Power ceramic stones(I am a hand tool guy whose "wood shop" is in his apartment's living room.) They work fast and I really, really like them. Honing is fun and easy. Grinding, however, is another story. I have a few of the coarser stones for re-grinding -- a 120, 240, and 400 grit -- that do cut fast(ish) and are pretty resistant to dishing. I've been able to fully regrind chisels and smaller plane blades without too much trouble. I can't say that I enjoy the experience, but given that I do all of this in my living space, I've been reluctant to introduce a powered form of grinding. Today, however, I needed to regrind the primary bevel on one of my 2.25" A2 bevel up plane blades. After about an hour's worth of work(no exaggeration!), I gave up. It was just too much metal to remove by hand, requiring multiple, labor intensive, messy re-flattenings of the stone throughout the process. NOT FUN.
So, I've decided I need to invest in a bench top grinder. I've done quite a bit of research on the differences between dry and wet grinders and bench top sanders, and the dry seems to be the one that would suit me best -- I'll likely continue to regrind chisels and smaller cutting tools by hand, and use the grinder only for the heavier plane blades and severely chipped edge tools. Specifically, the custom tuned Baldor offered by Tools For Working Wood (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-BALD.XX/Search/baldor/Gramercy_Custom_Tuned_Baldor_Bench_Grinders). I have 2 questions regarding this purchase:
1. Should I buy the slow or fast speed?
I've read that quenching a tool is best avoided -- it can leave invisible(but damaging and edge weakening) fractures in the tool's edge. Not letting the tool get hot enough to require quenching, or to overheat it, seems to me the best approach(or using a metal heat sink(magnets?).) Obviously, the faster grinder runs hotter. But, it grinds more quickly. What is the relationship between heat and metal removed? The slow grinder will, used long enough, overheat the tool if not ground with caution. And since it will take longer to grind because of its slower speed, might heat up the the steel at a similar ratio(to metal removed) to the faster cutting fast grinder. Does this make sense? What would you buy?
2. Is using a tool like this in a living room, albeit very occasionally, just plain stupid? Fumes and sparks and safety-wise?
I'd really appreciate any advice anyone has to offer. Thanks for your help.
David
PS If you want to talk me into a wet grinder or bench top sander I'm all ears.