Green Cherry Burls

[William Hamilton]

I was lucky enough to obtain some cherry burls today from a tree removal guy I know. I've never turned anything but would like to have a go at it (hopefully without ruining my spoils!). From what I have read, its best to dry these before turning. Could anyone give me some suggestions as to the best way to dry these to minimize checking? Should I remove the bark now? Coat with Anchorseal? I don't mind waiting a few years if it means a better probability of success.
I am thinking I'd like to attempt a large bowl, and possibly slab out the other burl for some knife blanks, etc.
Thanks for the advice.. 261837261837

[Steve bellinger]

William i'm by no means the man to be giving you any advise, but i got a few Pin cherry burls a few weeks ago.I got a bunch of advise from a number of folks much smarter than me. most of the folks that have gotten cherry burls green, say to just put them in a corner some where and wait a couple years. I did cut a small piece off one and ruff turn it just to see what it would do. Well even though i sealed it and baged it, it still cracked so bad i through it in the burn pile. Now you might have better luck than me, but i'm just whating on the rest of what i have till later. At least a year or two. BTW as i'm from Pa originally just woundering where yardley is? I'm from Bradford co, but have lived down here in west TN for over 20 years. The pic i'm adding is the ruff out of the one that had to go to the burn pile:(261842261841

[Richard Coers]

That big one scares me. It looks like a bark inclusion, or crack, or both all around. Put that on a lathe too fast, and you'll be wearing it. And, you've never turned anything? You better find a chapter of the AAW and have someone look over your shoulder. Starting with these is like driving a Ferrari for your first car. As far a when to turn, I think the way these look, you'll be lucky to have knife blanks if you let it sit for months. I always turn bowls thin and green. Thick cherry is asking for cracking!

[William Hamilton]

That big one scares me. It looks like a bark inclusion, or crack, or both all around. Put that on a lathe too fast, and you'll be wearing it. And, you've never turned anything? You better find a chapter of the AAW and have someone look over your shoulder. Starting with these is like driving a Ferrari for your first car. As far a when to turn, I think the way these look, you'll be lucky to have knife blanks if you let it sit for months. I always turn bowls thin and green. Thick cherry is asking for cracking!

Ive only turned walnut legs. Maybe I should slab it out and do some smaller work. My father-in-law has the lathe and has turned many things, but never a burl.

[William Hamilton]

William i'm by no means the man to be giving you any advise, but i got a few Pin cherry burls a few weeks ago.I got a bunch of advise from a number of folks much smarter than me. most of the folks that have gotten cherry burls green, say to just put them in a corner some where and wait a couple years. I did cut a small piece off one and ruff turn it just to see what it would do. Well even though i sealed it and baged it, it still cracked so bad i through it in the burn pile. Now you might have better luck than me, but i'm just whating on the rest of what i have till later. At least a year or two. BTW as i'm from Pa originally just woundering where yardley is? I'm from Bradford co, but have lived down here in west TN for over 20 years. The pic i'm adding is the ruff out of the one that had to go to the burn pile:(261842261841thanks Steve. I'm actually in the suburbs of Philly. Now I'm unsure of what to do with these.

[Scott Hackler]

Get them sealed NOW. If you don't have any Anchorseal (which I am guessing you don't) paint the exposed wood with multiple coats of latex paint, let it dry and place them is a climate controlled place out of direct sunlight, with a couple small boards to allow the bottom sides to breathe, keep them away from moving air and about a year from now they should be dried out.

OR you could research through the search function, the Denatured Alcohol drying technique (Dna) and you could see dried slabs and a rough out of a bowl with 1 to 1 1/2 months.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Scott said. I would get them sealed right away. Store them in a cool, dry place with little air flow.

[William Hamilton]

Get them sealed NOW. If you don't have any Anchorseal (which I am guessing you don't) paint the exposed wood with multiple coats of latex paint, let it dry and place them is a climate controlled place out of direct sunlight, with a couple small boards to allow the bottom sides to breathe, keep them away from moving air and about a year from now they should be dried out.

OR you could research through the search function, the Denatured Alcohol drying technique (Dna) and you could see dried slabs and a rough out of a bowl with 1 to 1 1/2 months.

I actually do have Anchorseal from a fence project. So that's what I'll do. Seal 'em and stash them away (and leave the bark on, as is?) Thanks for the tips.

[Scott Hackler]

If the bark will peal off easily, I tend to remove it. If you can get it off, Anchorseal the whole thing. Understand that we're trying to avoid it cracking while drying. Sealing it up with Anchorseal will SEAL it fairly well but not 100%, so it will dry eventually. The larger/thicker the wood, the longer the drying process. If you have an idea of making knife scales, pen blanks..ect, I would slice up that piece to 1.5x the thickness you want when it's done drying and then seal it. Those thinner blanks will dry a lot faster, even sealed up. Good luck.