Invention needed

[Reed Gray]

I found out the usual way that a new woodturning invention is needed. After making the inside of a vase just as deep as the outside, there is a need for a laser pointer when drilling out vases and hollow forms.

robo hippy

[ray hampton]

will the laser light work the same in all species of wood at a certain thickness

[Thom Sturgill]

Lets see, depending on the design of the tail rest you should be able to design a split ring clamp for a post there (on the quill so it moves in and out as you crank) and then mount the arm from a hollowing rig to the post. May lose a little quill travel, though on my jet there is over an inch of quill exposed when there is something in the MT.

Just remember when setting the laser that you need to point at the lead tip, not the shoulder .

[Grant Wilkinson]

I have a laser bottom-of-the-bowl gauge. However, it is not in place while I'm turning. I stop every now and then when I'm close to see where the bottom of the inside is relative to the outside.

[Roger Chandler]

Sounds like a design opportunity to me! :rolleyes:

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

Actually there is a system that let's you drill & use a laser if you want to. I do all my hollowing with a captive boring system from Advanced Lathe Tools. They make a adapter to let you use a Colt Maxi- Cut forstner drill bit in their boring bar ( which They also make a laser for ). You can then set the systems laser to the tip of the drill bit if you want to.
I've done it that way several times works just fine. However I find it faster to just measure the depth needed and put a piece of masking tape on the bit to mark the depth.

[Dennis Nagle]

I etched a ruler on my quill. That handles most of my work. However, the other day I drilled down 22" with s 3.5" forestner bill and hit the face plate. So much for my ruler if I don't pay attention.:D

[Brian Finney]

IMHO laser is not the answer. You really need the X-ray vision filters that fit over your face shield – Woodcraft have them on back order; they’ll be available soon.
As a stop-gap solution turn the concentration knob clockwiseJ
Brian

[Dennis Nagle]

What can I say. I am mesmerized by shavings.

[Steve Busey]

OK, when I saw the subject, I thought it said "Intervention needed" - and figured, "so what else is new around here?"

But that does sound like a good idea, Reed!

[Michael Mills]

These have been around a long time. A $1.00 key chain pointer. Set to the tip. Just look on the outside to see how far you are from the bottom.

I don't know if it will help with what you need.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Do you use the same drill bit? My solution is to extend out the drill bit and quill as far as it will go. Put your (empty) chuck on, and set the drill bit to what ever your desired bottom thickness is. Measure the distance between the head stock and tail stock. Cut a scrap piece of plywood that length. with the piece of wood in the way, you can now never get your drill bit farther than that, and should not get a lampshade.

[Josh Bowman]

I see it coming now "The New Tailstock Mounted Robo Light". Let's see how much more of my money I can send to the west coast!!

[Reed Gray]

Well, the laser pointers have been around for a while, and I have been thinking of some way to mount one on the tailstock quill so I can measure that way, and do it as I drill. Some times the tape, stick, or other methods just don't work so well. Okay, it is me, not really the instruments. Some days things just don't seem to go smoothly, and I am looking for an easy solution. It would not be wise to mount on the jacobs chuck because I have seen that spin out too many times. Probably not worth making a production unit out of it, but a great DIY project. Hmm, maybe I can mount my Monster laser pointer on it.....

robo hippy

[Michael Stafford]

I thought that invention was already out there and its name is masking tape.....measure how deeply you wish to drill and mark that depth on the bit with masking tape. I used to use a pencil line on the drill bit flute like Raffan does but found it to be hard to see some times.

I recently had the inside and outside diameters of a beautiful piece of exotic wood meet which resulted in some choice words. Of course I blamed the tool which is always appropriate. Perhaps you can do the same and it will make you feel better.....:D

[Josh Bowman]

but a great DIY project. Hmm, maybe I can mount my Monster laser pointer on it.....

robo hippy As long as we're brain storming, an ideas popped into my head. Take a 1x3 and drill a hole the side of the tailstocks quill and slit the hole, put a bolt below the slit to clamp it to the quill. Then drill a hole on the other end to support a rod and slit it for a small bolt to clamp it. Now it's just a matter of mounting a laser on the other end. You can pick up a 6mm (1/4") laser on Amazon with free shipping for $4.90. Just drill the horizontal piece and you're in business. That little laser is pretty bright.

[Thom Sturgill]

As long as we're brain storming, an ideas popped into my head. Take a 1x3 and drill a hole the side of the tailstocks quill and slit the hole, put a bolt below the slit to clamp it to the quill. Then drill a hole on the other end to support a rod and slit it for a small bolt to clamp it. Now it's just a matter of mounting a laser on the other end. You can pick up a 6mm (1/4") laser on Amazon with free shipping for $4.90. Just drill the horizontal piece and you're in business. That little laser is pretty bright.

This is basically what I suggested, but make the rod vertical and sized so that you can mount your monster laser to the rod. Use good hard maple or even aluminium.

[Josh Bowman]

This is basically what I suggested, but make the rod vertical and sized so that you can mount your monster laser to the rod. Use good hard maple or even aluminium.

Thom, that's a good idea. We'll get this sorted out so Reed can make 'um for us. ;)

[Josh Bowman]

Reed in honor of your idea, I present the Robo Drill Finder, or something like that. I think this was actually a good idea you had. So well, I built one in less than an hour and think it will help, especially on deep stuff.
So here it is, criticism and improvements welcomed.

261897261898261899261901261900
It's made from scrap, I drilled a hole to except and clamp to the quill, then while pondering a steel rod, it struck me to try a piece of dowel and simple use a friction fit. I need to protect the top of the laser.

[Reed Gray]

Josh,
That looks pretty spiffy! I will have to do some thing similar. Looking at your boring bar, maybe a drill bit could be put on to it as well. After all, how many drill bit extensions can you put on before you lose control?

robo hippy

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

Josh,
That looks pretty spiffy! I will have to do some thing similar. Looking at your boring bar, maybe a drill bit could be put on to it as well. After all, how many drill bit extensions can you put on before you lose control?

robo hippy


Reed, That's exactly what I said you can do using the Adavance Lathe Tools Boring system,:rolleyes: he makes a adapter for Colt Maxi-Cut drill bits to use in his boring bar.