mirka mirlon

[jim sauterer]

anyone try these pads for sanding projects.only found one review on amazon.he said they wore out to fast.anybody like or dislike.thanks jim.

[peter gagliardi]

I bought several boxes several years ago, I wouldn't buy them again. They certainly didn't last for me, but I'm pretty fussy and can't tolerate so-so quality products.
Peter

[Bill McNiel]

I use them for rubbing satin finishes on irregularly shaped surfaces (I do a fair amount of live edge pieces). They perform like steel wool without the metalic shards. No, they don't last perportionly to their cost.

For rubbing out gloss finishes I am now using Micro-Mesh pads and am really happy with their performance.

[Zach Callum]

I have used them, and like them just fine. They are only about $.60 each. How long do you think they are supposed to last? BTW, I am very fussy...

[Jim Matthews]

I use these to apply Waterlox, as a wipe on finish.

I progress through the "grits" from coarse to fine, no sanding between coats is necessary.
If you're using these in place of sandpaper, that seems a misapplication of the product.

I wouldn't consider using them until I've used conventional sandpaper to 220 grit.
They're ideal for polishing, and conforming to odd shapes.

Unlike sandpaper, they won't round over sharp profiles.

I would imagine they're terrific for buffing naturally oily woods.

[jim sauterer]

i am not trying to replace sandpaper more as a final going over before finishing and between coats of general finish.jim do you actually apply the waterlox with these pads with the low voc waterlox.

[Jim Matthews]

I use the original formulation Waterlox.

I suppose they would work just as well with the low VOC version.
I cut the pads into four quarters, wipe the stuff on with a little pressure (wearing gloves, of course) and pull the glove off over the pad to seal the air out.
I put the pad and glove into a ziploc bag and it remains useable for another two or three applications.

No sanding required between coats but you need MANY coats to get a good depth of finish.
I can get two coats on in a day, if the humidity is low.

This is a variant on Mike Pekovich's "The only finish you'll ever need" (http://www.waterlox.com/uploads/docs/4.11%20Wiping%20Varnish_The%20Only%20Finish%20You' ll%20Ever%20Need_FWW__634474589121325461.pdf) as taught at the Connecticut valley woodworking school.

There's no need to sand between applications. Each application polishes the previous layer.
Progressing through the grits gets a high sheen.

Using the gloss (uncut) Waterlox, you just stop when you've finish you want.
Finer grit = smaller scratches = more reflective finish.

If you stop at a coarser grit, you can get a very even matte finish.

Finger prints can be rubbed out, even if the prior application is dry.

The only knock I have against Waterlox is that it isn't impermeable.
Water or sodas will leave a ring. Easy enough to buff out with a fresh application, this way.

[Bill McNiel]

Jim,
Thanks for the educational post. I've never used them to apply Waterlox but your concept sounds solid.

[Jim Matthews]

Jim,
Thanks for the educational post. I've never used them to apply Waterlox but your concept sounds solid.

Not my idea, Bob van Dyke of the Connecticut Valley woodworking school teaches this method.
You don't need a special place to do this, as dust isn't really a problem.

I've done three projects this way, in the garage.

Just to reiterate - it is recommended to use the gloss version, as this has no stearates of "dulling" additives to cut light reflection.
This makes for a harder, more durable finish. If you want a duller finish, buff with a dry piece of the same grit used to apply the last layer.

[Travis Hudson]

I use the original formulation Waterlox.

I suppose they would work just as well with the low VOC version.
I cut the pads into four quarters, wipe the stuff on with a little pressure (wearing gloves, of course) and pull the glove off over the pad to seal the air out.
I put the pad and glove into a ziploc bag and it remains useable for another two or three applications.

No sanding required between coats but you need MANY coats to get a good depth of finish.
I can get two coats on in a day, if the humidity is low.

This is a variant on Mike Pekovich's "The only finish you'll ever need" (http://www.waterlox.com/uploads/docs/4.11%20Wiping%20Varnish_The%20Only%20Finish%20You' ll%20Ever%20Need_FWW__634474589121325461.pdf) as taught at the Connecticut valley woodworking school.

There's no need to sand between applications. Each application polishes the previous layer.
Progressing through the grits gets a high sheen.

Using the gloss (uncut) Waterlox, you just stop when you've finish you want.
Finer grit = smaller scratches = more reflective finish.

If you stop at a coarser grit, you can get a very even matte finish.

Finger prints can be rubbed out, even if the prior application is dry.

The only knock I have against Waterlox is that it isn't impermeable.
Water or sodas will leave a ring. Easy enough to buff out with a fresh application, this way.

I know this is an old post but after reading this post, I will give a try to resurrect the post. I gave the method described by Jim Matthews a try. Now I am concerned with grit I feel in the surface from the application with the Mirka Mirlon pads. I would assume this grit is contamination from the abrasive nature of the pad polishing the previous coat. I am not sure if this is normal and if I should proceed to the next coat or sand out the contamination. Then again, maybe I put down too much pressure during the application. Any thoughts? Thank you