Recommendations for a non-marring hammer for adjusting plane blades?

[Mike Allen1010]

Recently I've been using wooden planes more frequently -- Some are shop made an others are restored old molding planes.

After spending all the time and effort to clean up/build these wooden planes, I'm disappointed that the small, square steel hammer I have used for years to adjust plane blades and the metal "chipbreaker/wedge" on Japanese planes (I have no idea what this is actually called), dents up the back of the plane body where I tap it to draw the blade back during adjusting.

I guess I could add some strike buttons out of something particularly hard/dense, but that seems like way too much work.

I'm wondering what kind of hammers others used for adjusting their plane blades? I know little/nothing about metal working, but I assume a softer metal (brass?) Would have sufficient density and would be less likely to mar the wooden plane body? I guess another option might be a steel hammer head with some kind of softer, synthetic surface on the striking face?

I like the square cross-section of the hammer I use now because it slides nicely against the blade when adjusting the "chipbreaker/wedge" thing on Japanese planes.

I also like the idea of building my own tools, but try to avoid metalworking like the plague so shaping a handle to fit an existing head is about the extent of what I can contribute to "making" my own plane adjusting hammer.

I really appreciate any suggestions or recommendations!

Many thanks, Mike

[Chris Friesen]

Seems like this (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=46540&cat=1,230,41182) is just what you're looking for

[Dave Beauchesne]

Mike:

I hope the photos came through. Ah! looks like they did!!
I built a couple Krenov style planes a couple years ago and wanted to build an adjusting hammer - so, I got a piece of 3/4'' hexagonal brass and worked it - drilled a hole in the middle and widened it with a round file to make it a racetrack shape ( slightly ). The hex shape made it easy to register the hole.
Then, I spun out the handle from Santos Rosewood, fit the tenon and wedged it with an ebony wedge. The handle is far too chunky and I really don't like it, but did the trick for the time being. I whipped the handle with waxed linen cord - a nice, practical touch.
You can see the face that I didn't apply leather to is the blade adjusting end; the brass gets a bit chewed up from tapping the blade, but not too badly. I installed the leather to tap the wooden bodies and not mar them, but the leather deadens the blow just enough that it makes it ineffective to some degree, so I use the marred up end; so far, the Beech and Vera plane bodies are no worse for wear. Works for me and cost very little - while not very classical looking, it does have a unique quality about it. Hope this helps - - -

[Chris Griggs]

I made one (that isn't all that nice) out of a couple of scraps of hardwood I ha lyding around. It wasn't the best wood choice so I don't hit blades with it. I mainly use it for hitting the body when backing out blade and then I use a my little brass hammer for setting and adjusting the blades. Not the best solution but a free and easy solution.

[Jack Curtis]

I'm very fond of the Collen/HNT Gordon small wooden mallet, ironwood in my case. I also use small metal Japanese versions with success.261463

[Jim Belair]

David Finck's book has a nice one from a piece of 1/2" round brass stock. Simply a matter of drilling a hole for the handle. I like mine (sorry no pic).

[Mike Allen1010]

Seems like this (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=46540&cat=1,230,41182) is just what you're looking for

Thanks everyone for the advice and suggestions.!

Chris, thanks for the link. Of course Lee Valley has exactly what I'm looking for... Duh!!! and of course I just placed an order--- ugh! -- I'm officially an idiot!

Mike

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I use these two hammers pretty interchangeably when adjusting my wooden planes. Brass end for the blades, plastic end for hitting wooden things.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Hammering/Fretting_Hammer.html

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Hammering/Deadblow_Fretting_Hammer.html

Probably can get the same things cheaper elsewhere, I don't think either were that expensive when I bought them. Had the non-deadblow version or a very long time now. Think I got the deadblow one with a gift certificate or something. Not traditional, but they work well.

While a hammer that's not too hard is key, another essential thing I find is hitting the surface square. Hit it at an angle and the edge of the hammer face leaves a frenched mark. A slightly domed hammer face aids this, of course.

If I really need to whallop a plane to help get a stuck wedge out, rather than whacking with a hammer, I rap the backside of the plane against the bench.

[Mark Kornell]

I use a piece of brass bar - 3/4" square by 4" long. Leather glued to one end, for tapping the back of the plane without marring. The plain brass end for tapping the blade. Easy to slip into a pocket and carry around. Heavy enough that you always know exactly which pocket it is in.

I also have the LV plane hammer, use it mainly for collecting dust.

[Mike Holbrook]

Tools from Japan offers very nice wood mallets, designed for use on planes. They come in four different sizes and cost $6-$13. I think mine is the next to smallest. My LV plane hammer gets used too, whole different feel. I also have the Veritas Cabinetmakers mallet, if one of my planes starts acting up I toss it form hand to hand menacingly and the errant plane typically changes it's attitude.

http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=344_371

[Joerg Bullmann]

I also have the LV plane hammer, use it mainly for collecting dust.

Hi Mark,

Does it collect the dust well? At $29.50 plus tax and shipping I'd personally consider it an utter luxury item, if used for tapping planes or irons only.

But if it keeps the dust out of the way, then it sure sounds like a bargain. Can you recommend it? :)

J.

[Jim Matthews]

I use an ancient Stanley with plastic inserts.

New ones are no less money than the LV version (which is nicer) but the tips can be replaced.
I think it was two or three dollars from the Tool consignment store in Hartford, CT.

http://www.dkhardware.com/product-20256-st57594-stanley-8-ounce-soft-face-hammer.html

It need not be any heavier.
I think you could get by with a small, regular hammer if you glue a little shoe leather to the business end.

If you already own a hammer that's less than 12 ounces, try the local bag/shoe repair shop for scraps.

Buy more than you need for this task, heavy leather is really useful for work holding and stropping blades, too.

[don wilwol]

I pick up every $2 or $3 brass hammer I find. I also made one to match an infill I built. 261478

[Stanley Covington]

Tools from Japan offers very nice wood mallets, designed for use on planes. They come in four different sizes and cost $6-$13. I think mine is the next to smallest. My LV plane hammer gets used too, whole different feel. I also have the Veritas Cabinetmakers mallet, if one of my planes starts acting up I toss it form hand to hand menacingly and the errant plane typically changes it's attitude.

http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=344_371

Mike's suggestion is the best and cheapest. You can make one very easily from scrap too. This kind of simple wooden mallet has an additional advantage: For fine adjustment of the chipbreaker, you can tap with the end of the handle, so you don't need to get the big head down into the hole.

Stan

[Steve Meliza]

If you have the tools and materials to make your own plane hammer then doing so is cheap and effective. The problem I was facing is that if you have no tools to speak of then you can hardly start building your own tools using nothing but a kitchen knife so I coughed up the $30 for the LV hammer and am very happy with it. If you want to make your own then I suggest watching Bob's video on adjusting wooden planes where he shows the all wood and the brass and walnut hammers that he made for that purpose: http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2010/12/quick-tip-8/

[paul cottingham]

Hi Mark,

Does it collect the dust well? At $29.50 plus tax and shipping I'd personally consider it an utter luxury item, if used for tapping planes or irons only.

But if it keeps the dust out of the way, then it sure sounds like a bargain. Can you recommend it? :)

J.
i have one, and would recommend it without reservation. Use it all the time.

[David Weaver]

* cheap small dead blow mallet from HF
* cheap replaceable face hammer from ebay
* cheap 8 ounce brass hammer from HF and..
* a vintage stanley 4 ounce steel ball pein hammer. I have to admit that I love the feel of the steel hammer on japanese blades. I just don't use it on anything really expensive.

[Derek Cohen]

This is my plane hammer. I made it some years ago. Initially it had an ebony head on one side (as in the picture). This has been replaced with leather disks glued on with hide glue. It works well - no denting or marking wooden planes. And the brass is great for adjusting blades. 7 oz head.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Mallets%20and%20hammers/Malletheads1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Paulsen]

Funny you started this thread, I just finished this plane adjusting hammer today.
261486
It's kind opposite the others. Wood, with brass to hit the iron. I'm happy with it, though a little on the light side. Oh well.

[Jim Koepke]

Here is mine made from scraps.

261487

Not an expert in wood identification I think the head is lignum vitae. It is only about 7" long overall.

jtk

[Chuck Nickerson]

With the 'make your own' emphasis of this thread I hate to mention this, but Dave Anderson of Chester Tool Works makes a wonderful woodie hammer.
It's brass on one end and Lignum vitae on the other. I seem to have accumulated two or three...

[Mark Kornell]

Hi Mark,

Does it collect the dust well? At $29.50 plus tax and shipping I'd personally consider it an utter luxury item, if used for tapping planes or irons only.

But if it keeps the dust out of the way, then it sure sounds like a bargain. Can you recommend it? :)

J.

Yes, it does collect dust very well. Fairly limited in the area it covers, but enough mass that it stays put. :-)

It also works quite well for adjusting planes. Got good use out of it, but kept leaving it in various places in the shop and having to hunt for it every time I needed it. I was looking at it one day and thinking that I could fit it into a pocket in my apron if it didn't have a handle. Just happened to have a long piece of 3/4" brass bar on my bench and when I put the hammer down next to the bar, the light went on.

[Mike Cogswell]

Thanks everyone for the advice and suggestions.!

Chris, thanks for the link. Of course Lee Valley has exactly what I'm looking for... Duh!!! and of course I just placed an order--- ugh! -- I'm officially an idiot!

Mike

Chris beat me to it, that's the same hammer I use on my wooden planes. I've got a number (~50) of them that I use a fair amount, so the hammer gets a workout. I've had it about a year and a half and am very satisfied with it.